2005 Pathfinder Coolant Reservoir Replacement

[n00ber]

As you see from the subject, I have a 2005 Pathfinder. It has a coolant reservoir leak (at the seam in the middle, of all places) and I've purchased a replacement. The replacement is formed from a (1) reservoir tank hose, (2) reservoir tank and a (3) heater bypass hose. #3 in the car is underneath some fuse boxes and as a part of #3, there is an aluminum tube with two bends in it. Due to the bends, I can't get it out easily.

For the life of me, I can't find any videos, instructions or anything in any manual about how to replace #1, #2 and #3 without dismantling #3. Even then, I'd still be keeping the aluminum tube underneath the fuse boxes.

So, anyone know the recommended way to do this, please?

[AZhitman]

Welcome aboard!

Check the FSM - You can get it at nissanservicemanuals.com

[n00ber]

Thanks for the quick reply. Actually, if you look in the FSM (and I did prior to coming to the forum) it doesn't detail how to change the coolant reservoir. Check out the CO pdf's. It isn't there (unless I missed it in one other than the 2005, 2006 and 2010 versions that I looked in).

I'm open to checking anywhere, so if you know, let me know!

[VStar650CL]

It isn't difficult. Since your old reservoir is trashed, you won't need to worry about getting the bottom hose off it without breaking anything. The hose on the lower nipple is clamped, you can just cut the old one to make the end of the metal pipe easy to get at. Three 6mm (10mm head) screws holding the reservoir in, if memory serves there's one at the base and two on the inner fender. If you want to get underneath the boxes to replace the pipe, you'll need to peel back the rear portion of the wheel well inner cover, there's a 6mm nut on a stud that holds the main box in from the bottom.

[n00ber]

It isn't difficult. Since your old reservoir is trashed, you won't need to worry about getting the bottom hose off it without breaking anything. The hose on the lower nipple is clamped, you can just cut the old one to make the end of the metal pipe easy to get at. Three 6mm (10mm head) screws holding the reservoir in, if memory serves there's one at the base and two on the inner fender. If you want to get underneath the boxes to replace the pipe, you'll need to peel back the rear portion of the wheel well inner cover, there's a 6mm nut on a stud that holds the main box in from the bottom.

Just went to the garage (it's 9:19pm here) and I just checked. Sure enough, there is a nut accessible from the bottom. I already had the wheel well inner cover off, so I could easily see it once you pointed it out. I'll spend some time tomorrow to undo that, lift the box and remove the pipe and hoses out.

Thanks for having me check that out. I'll report back if you're interested!

[VStar650CL]

Happy to help.

[n00ber]

So, the problem is fixed, but it wasn't as easy as loosening a nut from the bottom of the fender well. That nut was actually nearly the last step in a series of taking things apart just to get that aluminum tube out and put everything back in.

Underneath:

1. Jacked up car, removed front passenger wheel.
2. Drain radiator then go to Autozone to buy radiator drain plug lost in the process. Seriously. Yes, I looked everywhere. Stop typing.
3. Removed 10 or so Phillip's head nuts and four pop up (?) fasteners to remove the plastic wheel well cover and plastic cover for the mud guard.
4. Popped out two white plastic brackets holding the aluminum pipe which joins the reservoir to the heater bypass hose.
5. Removed the heater bypass hose from the aluminum tube.
6. Removed the heater bypass hose from the heater bypass fitting (?) on the fire wall.

Up top:

1. Take out the battery
2. Pull up the first (counting from the front of the car) fuse box and lay it over to the side.
3. Took three bolts out of the reservoir and a plastic nut that joined the reservoir to the wiper reservoir.
4. Removed the radiator overflow hose from reservoir.
5. Removed short rubber hose joining aluminum tube to reservoir.
6. Removed reservoir from the car.
7. Removed two (?) more bolts to move the bracket that was holding the first fuse box. I went in the wheel well to remove a nut holding down the bracket and moved the bracket.
8. With that bracket moved, I could then take out the three bolts holding down the second fuse box and move that out of the way.
9. Removed a clipped on cover to left of the third fuse box and unclamped two electrical connections. I "bungeed" one of those back toward the battery tray out of the way.
10. Removed two bolts from the third fuse box and from underneath, removed nut holding down third fuse box.
11. Fished out aluminum tube by "lifting" third fuse box.

That's everything for the removal. Putting everything back was pretty easy except joining the rubber hose from the aluminum tube to the reservoir was murder. Very little room to move and super strong clamp. In removing the push fasteners from the wheel well, I busted three out of four (underachiever, I guess) so I had to get a new package of those. Thx Autozone!

[VStar650CL]

In removing the push fasteners from the wheel well, I busted three out of four (underachiever, I guess) so I had to get a new package of those. Thx Autozone!

Just a helpful tip, soaking those clips with a little WD40 or PB Blaster before removal makes them a lot less likely to break. It's dirt in the channels that binds them up. Same applies to the latches on electrical connectors in exposed locations.

[n00ber]

In removing the push fasteners from the wheel well, I busted three out of four (underachiever, I guess) so I had to get a new package of those. Thx Autozone!

Just a helpful tip, soaking those clips with a little WD40 or PB Blaster before removal makes them a lot less likely to break. It's dirt in the channels that binds them up. Same applies to the latches on electrical connectors in exposed locations.

Good idea. As of yesterday, I only put WD40 on the metal clamps to help push them back on the rubber.

Thanks for the tip!