2005 Maxima floor rust

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oltommy
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Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2012 11:09 am
Car: M37x / M56x

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I have a 2005 Nissan Maxima SE with 95k miles on it. Mechanically, this has been the best car I have ever owned. A few months ago I had my oil changed and they showed me significant floor rust under the passenger seat (from the bottom of the car). I did a Google search on "Nissan Floor Rust" and say a ton of hits. When I change Nissan to Buick, Toyota, Honda, Ford, etc. there are not hits. My local Nissan dealer claims they see it all the time and it is clearly a design flaw. But Nissan doesn't cover it. Anyone else have a similar issue?

The searches have shown that this can happen under the passenger or driver's seat. The floor under my driver's seat looks "showroom floor new." The floor under the passenger seat is bad.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Maybe a sunroof leak or something? I dunno. Lots of Nissans have rust issues. Just weld it up or fiberglass it and be on your way.

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VQpwrdSE-R
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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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Altimas in the same year have problems, for us it was a design flaw from the factory. The chassis sat on 4 pins as the car was assembled, they then plugged up the holes and undercoated it. The rust starts from the inside out. My drivers side floor pan rusted out. I used 1/16 gauge metal if I remember correct drilled riveted and undercoated it all.
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This is when it started

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The nasty metal cleaned up leaving a 3 by 6in hole.

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Primed and wire brushed

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Replacement pan prior to riveting. Given the contour I needed a gauge that was strong yet bendable to conform to the area. I used a second pan on the under side and well. Hope this helps you out.

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VQpwrdSE-R
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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
Location: Pennsylvania

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Yeah Nissan won't cover it. It happens to many 3rd gen Altimas regardless of where you live. Some think it is a salt issue but that's simply not true the undercoating on mine was fine.

oltommy
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2012 11:09 am
Car: M37x / M56x

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VQpwrdSE-R thanks for the pictures. That is pretty close to the issue I have currently. I have been told it is a design flaw too. That frustrates me beyond believe. Unfortunately, I am not very handy and I don't think I'd be comfortable doing the work you did. Your fix looks good.

Check out the difference from the end of August to the beginning of December. I live in Minneapolis so the December picture shows some snow on the bottom of the car as well.
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VQpwrdSE-R
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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
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Man that looks rough. If you lived closer I'd be willing to help out. The shaPe of the floor pan looks complex. I was able to do my fix for under $60 and a few hours of labor. What have shops quoted you to fix. In PA we have inspections that wouldn't pass holes in floor pans due to exhaust fumes.

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asoomal
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:45 pm
Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza L 5MT (Daily)
1992 Nissan 240SX SE 5MT w/HICAS (Being restored)
Location: Canada

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Even 2005 models rust that bad eh.

If they're gonna build them using crap steel and not prep them right, at least continue making body parts for 100+ years for those who actually do wanna keep them -_-

Honestly, what I would do is cut a section out, flange it and place some galvanized sheet metal on it and tack weld it till it is fully welded.

Where the panel meets the flanges, I'd sand it to bare metal, blast it with air, wax and grease remover, blast it with air again, and shoot the flanges with either zinc rich primer or if possible, SPI epoxy. Also apply zinc rich primer (weld through/cold galvanizing) on the flanged metal itself or epoxy paint. Then tack it.

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VQpwrdSE-R
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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
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^ looks like a good method for fixing the problem. All except for the welding of galvanized steel. Welding galvanized releases zinc and magnesium oxide which are toxic when breathed in.

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asoomal
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:45 pm
Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza L 5MT (Daily)
1992 Nissan 240SX SE 5MT w/HICAS (Being restored)
Location: Canada

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I am well aware of that.

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/ca/en00 ... ageHandler

You can always grind or wire wheel the coating off before you weld it.

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VQpwrdSE-R
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Joined: Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:32 pm
Car: 2005 Code Red Nissan Altima SE-R
2013 Nissan Altima SV
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Ok cool, just wanted the OP to know.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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yeah, even grinding the galvanized stuff releases it into the air.

Not that that ever stops me. I typically take a few deep breaths, hold it in, run in, weld/grind it, run out, and breath again... kinda like taking a piss in a stadium porta-john.

DrewH
Posts: 350
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:29 am
Car: 2006 Altima SE R
2012 G37X
Location: NEPA

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asoomal wrote:Even 2005 models rust that bad eh.
All 3rd gen Altima's and 6th gen Maximas have the potential for this issue. I always tell people to periodically respray the areas around the holes in each floorboard with paint/undercoating. The asphalt insulation that lines the inside of the hole is flexible and over time will lead to cracks forming in the undercoating. Once water gets inside it just sits in there and rusts because the hole isn't the low point. Keeping a fresh coat on the area keeps any cracks that may have/have formed sealed.

oltommy
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2012 11:09 am
Car: M37x / M56x

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Thanks for all of the replies. This has been helpful. I wish I were a bit more handy. Mechanically the car has been PERFECT. I have owned it for coming up on 8 years and 95k miles. The only work I have done is routine (oil, brakes and tires). Literally, I have not made one other repair to this vehicle.


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