The driver side center sliding door is closed and won't open from the outside or the inside. I took off the panel and I don't see any cable fasteners popped out of place. I think the door is locked and that is why it isn't opening but I don't know how to test that. If the problem were electronic wouldn't the door still open when using the interior handle? Could it be that the child safety mechanism is engaged?

The safety slide should only prevent the inside handle from operating, the outside should still work. So if neither one works and the cables are good, it sounds like a stuck mechanism. Most likely either the unlock pawl is worn out or the rollover cam is jammed. You can't really get at either one of those without chiseling the assembly apart.

So it looks like the whole assembly is bolted/screwed to the door. Is your advice to remove the assembly to get to the worn or stuck parts? Or are you saying once removed chiseling will be required? It's been awhile since I had any desire to work on the van, today was 50 and sunny here. Back to single digits over the weekend though! I'm ready for spring and kayaking, walking on the frozen lake is different but I did it, watched the ice fishers now let's move on!

You won't be able to remove the unbolted assembly from the door unless you can get the rollover cam to release from the striker. As long as the cam is rolled and latched, the mechanism is essentially stuck to the car. If you could unscrew the striker without getting the door open it would be different, but you can't. So if the cam won't unlatch, the only way to separate the striker and mechanism is to destroy the mechanism.

Gotta shoot some WD-40 or Silicone spray occasionally on those latch mechanisms to keep 'em copascetic!

Hey , maybe you could " snake " the nozzle ( get a very long nozzle ) on the spray can , spray the liv'inn Crap out the entire area , then while punching the door hard ( use gloves, boxing gloves? ) at the same time some one is working the hell out of handle and / or outside handle/lock cylinder ??

Give THAT the " Old College Try " ????????????
p.s. even if you have to drill an 1/8" hole SOMEWHERE ...to position the spray nozzle ......ya know ??
And a body shop tech maybe can tell you where best to drill a small hole that hits the mechanism BEST

I get it. Crap. Yeah I guess I will look into access to that cam-striker location and see if I can soak it down. I have a new can of PB Blaster I think it is that is calling my name. Thanks!

Work that door like Charlie Sheen !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Spray Tiger Blood if ya have to

schuylkill wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 11, 2022 5:43 pm

I get it. Crap. Yeah I guess I will look into access to that cam-striker location and see if I can soak it down. I have a new can of PB Blaster I think it is that is calling my name. Thanks!

I doubt you'll need to drill anything, you can see the mechanism on a Quest is pretty well exposed once the inside door panel is removed. Sometimes manipulating the levers directly instead of using the cables will get it unlatched. But if the mechanism is broken or too worn out, there aren't any options besides implements of destruction.

"Shock The Monkeeeeeee " hit it , hit it HARD too !!While you mess with latch - Just don't DENT anything https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnVf1ZoCJSo&t=116s

Could the problem be that the motor is shot or does that have nothing to do with this problem? I had a duplicate key made and the guy that did it suggested that a dead motor could keep the door from opening manually. The shop would work on anything electrical on a vehicle. He was convincing.

schuylkill wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 20, 2022 7:00 pm

Could the problem be that the motor is shot or does that have nothing to do with this problem? I had a duplicate key made and the guy that did it suggested that a dead motor could keep the door from opening manually. The shop would work on anything electrical on a vehicle. He was convincing.

Yes, the side door mechanism is very different from a power tailgate spindle. The motor itself can't jam it, but the motor mechanism can.

So if the motor tests dead, if I can do that, I should replace it and expect what result? I'm slowly gaining experience with these electrical issues.

No, the motor itself can't cause the door or door lock to jam. Only the cable and gearbox assembly can do the former, and only a bad lock assembly can do the latter. See BL-172 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 4%2Fbl.pdf

It is possible that the driver side center sliding door is locked, preventing it from opening from the outside or the inside.

To test if the door is locked, you can try using the manual lock located on the door itself, or inside the vehicle near the door. If the manual lock is engaged, it will prevent the door from opening.

It is also possible that the child safety mechanism is engaged, preventing the door from opening. This mechanism is designed to prevent children from accidentally opening the door while the vehicle is in motion. To check if this is the case, consult the vehicle's manual or look for a switch or button near the door or on the door panel that can be used to disengage the child safety mechanism.

It's worth noting that if the problem were electronic, the door should still open when using the interior handle. It's also worth checking the fuses and the electronic control module that operates the power sliding door.

If you are unable to resolve the issue, it would be best to take the vehicle to a qualified technician or dealership for further diagnosis and repair. They will have the tools and knowledge to properly diagnose the problem and make the necessary repairs.