Post by
Diegoac12 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/diegoac12-u256411.html
Thu Apr 28, 2016 10:57 pm
To whomever sees this post, and relates. the car finally started yesterday. after a long battle with the truck. The engine was swapped for an engine from the same model and same year.
- the wiring hardness belonged to an AWD and mine was RWD. what i learned was that It does not matter that there are extra plugs, because if the car does not code/require them it won't even notice them. but if it does require them and does not have them, the computer will pick it up in a sec.
- the code U1000 & u1001 is usually for bad ground connections as anyone will tell you, however, their locations evade big time. there are 2 right under the steering wheel on the walls that hold a plate above your knees. the easiest to notice is on the left side behind the lift gate switches.
- there are 3 grounds around the battery bay area, two on the fender wall and one right between the battery and the ipdm under the mass amount of wires.
- there are three on the left side of the engine bay, on the inner wall of the engine bay below the intake box, need to remove intake and also fan shroud.
- another note, this cars mean business, the damn truck WILL NOT start with a weak battery, it must be fully charged, i had to buy a new one and even with that i had to charge it to the max.
- if the car cranks and does not turn over, check the spark, if it sparks once and only once, after every time you hit the ignition, replace the ECM relay on the IPDM. you know what replace it either way, it is only $3 at the dealer.
- if the car still does not turn on but cranks non stop, check the DAMN camshaft sensors and crankcase sensor. In the end after 6 months of war with my truck, it was the DAMN crankcase sensor. picked one up at Advaced auto for $30.00 after all the struggle and jumping the truck and 6 months of wrecking my brain. a BMW mechanic told me to replace both sensors, i only had to replace one to get it started.