2004 Pathfinder Trans issue
2004 Pathfinder Trans issue
I have a 2004 Pathfinder , 129,000miles , with the 3.5 / RE4R01A trans, 4wd . When I put the car in reverse , you can here the drivetrain engaging , but the car wont move. In drive it seems as if its under a load, also , when in neutral and you rev the engine, it still acts as if it is in between neutral and drive...help !!!
Re: 2004 Pathfinder Trans issue
mac, today must be transmission day , so here's a quote from an INFINITI guru transmission mech, in AZ "There isn't ANYTHING ELECTRICAL that would keep your trans. from having a "normal" 'L1' or 'Rev' "(Mine is also RE4RO1A) . And in other words , I believe he inferred like if TCM was even disconnected from harness, or more likely the trans. harnesses were disconnected from getting any "signals" - messed up or correct ones,from rest of system. Basically - IF fluid level correct & not FUBAR/BURNT - you will have MECHANICALLY L1 and Reverse ! And the shifting , down-shifting , engaging/disengaging in ALL OTHER GEAR positions is what the TCM , electrical connection & conjunction w/ECM DOES. Is what this GURU was trying to explain to me in lay-terms 
So the FIRST thing ALL Legitemite trans. repair TRYS (Dealer, Ind. shop, shade-tree) is a "Drop pan-drain-screen/filter chng.- wipe pan & magnet - refill w/FACTORY FLUID " . THEN see if you got 'L1' and 'Rev' ?? 
Tip: Good to RE-TORQUE - to specs the valve-body bolts (usually 10mm) ALL,even under the filter screen.
So the FIRST thing ALL Legitemite trans. repair TRYS (Dealer, Ind. shop, shade-tree) is a "Drop pan-drain-screen/filter chng.- wipe pan & magnet - refill w/FACTORY FLUID " . THEN see if you got 'L1' and 'Rev' ?? Tip: Good to RE-TORQUE - to specs the valve-body bolts (usually 10mm) ALL,even under the filter screen.
Re: 2004 Pathfinder Trans issue
If you can do this safely, go under the vehicle and look at the linkage as someone shifts the gear lever. And once you know what direction the manual lever goes when the gear selector is going forward towards P or backwards towards L, you can manually attempt to shift it into gear down there.
[Make sure your parking brake is on, and your partner has his/her foot on the brake!!]
That's my test for whether the transmission is actually going into the specific gear as much as the gear selector is moving in your hand... and it's free, and relatively quick.
[Make sure your parking brake is on, and your partner has his/her foot on the brake!!]
That's my test for whether the transmission is actually going into the specific gear as much as the gear selector is moving in your hand... and it's free, and relatively quick.
Re: 2004 Pathfinder Trans issue
I drained the fluid, drooped he pan and valve body, fluid wasn't burnt but needed changed. Also , I do have L1 , but it is very labored. Another item, even with the engine off, when I have the selector in reverse, the vehicle will not move at all like its in park...any help would be appreciated.
Re: 2004 Pathfinder Trans issue
mac, couple of things here , the symptoms of your May 27 @10:42am , are talking about AFTER the servicing you've described in the first sentence - including , WOW, "dropping the valve-body" .I didn't think the discussion yet was at all talking going that "Far" into it , I only mentioned a re-torque ( they do get VERY loose many times).
Maybe it was a "slip" in your explanation. Valve bodies , with a couple of sandwitched plates several complex gaskets and ALL THOSE CHECKBALLS - I'm just hoping you didn't do that , if so tell us your strategy/ what it was supposed to accomplish.Any one of a dozen steps in NOT putting it back proper - God wouldn't even know what may go wrong. The only time I've had a valve body out was VERY familiar Turbo 350/400 GM trans I do "shift-kit" installs on ,they have detailed instructions , for an experienced mechanic, to attempt.
IF , let's relax now , say you did a pan/filter/fluid/refill/ back-together , AND your still having much of the same in that your not getting the BASICS - a normal Reverse or a normal 1st (L1) , then probably a transmission expert help is needed. Not evereryone, keep in mind, in the transmission business is ALL THAT,can be a crap-shoot is everyones fear , your not alone
I mean outside of the "Basics" here - and like EdBwoy was talking - to see to it getting proper 'detent' , the mechanical linkage proper , etc, and any other basics that knowledgeable people can recommend - just keep in mind what's key here is trans are not like motors YOU QUICKLY REACH a POINT of no-return , bafflement, how when one realizes just how "in over their head" one can get! Not to mention "Progressive Damage" you may be causing.
Maybe it was a "slip" in your explanation. Valve bodies , with a couple of sandwitched plates several complex gaskets and ALL THOSE CHECKBALLS - I'm just hoping you didn't do that , if so tell us your strategy/ what it was supposed to accomplish.Any one of a dozen steps in NOT putting it back proper - God wouldn't even know what may go wrong. The only time I've had a valve body out was VERY familiar Turbo 350/400 GM trans I do "shift-kit" installs on ,they have detailed instructions , for an experienced mechanic, to attempt.
IF , let's relax now , say you did a pan/filter/fluid/refill/ back-together , AND your still having much of the same in that your not getting the BASICS - a normal Reverse or a normal 1st (L1) , then probably a transmission expert help is needed. Not evereryone, keep in mind, in the transmission business is ALL THAT,can be a crap-shoot is everyones fear , your not alone
I mean outside of the "Basics" here - and like EdBwoy was talking - to see to it getting proper 'detent' , the mechanical linkage proper , etc, and any other basics that knowledgeable people can recommend - just keep in mind what's key here is trans are not like motors YOU QUICKLY REACH a POINT of no-return , bafflement, how when one realizes just how "in over their head" one can get! Not to mention "Progressive Damage" you may be causing.
Re: 2004 Pathfinder Trans issue
If you don't have a lot of dirt and burnt clutch material in the old fluid you may be able to skate by without a complete rebuild or replacement. At minimum you're probably going to need to replace all the shift solenoids. The entire pack can be purchased for about $350. The next step up is to replace the entire valve body assembly which runs about $1,100. If you feel up to it you could minimize the upfront cost and buy a rebuild kid for the valve body (includes solenoid pack), but that's going to run about $450. Personally I'd opt for the minimalist approach with the solenoid pack replacement. It's not a real time consuming or complex fix - just messy.