2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls

Post by **tireguy240** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:30 pm

My car stalled at a light today. When I went to turn it on the Slip, VDC off, and Check engine light where on. The car also took awhile to turn. The lights are still on and the car is getting harder to start. If anyone could help I would appreciate it.

Post by **maxnix** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:36 pm

Original battery?

Post by **tireguy240** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:52 pm

No, the battery is new. I also got a scan tool to see what the codes where and the code it is throwing is P0340 camshaft position sensor phase bank 1. The weird part is the SLIP light and the VDC off light are on along with the Service engine light.

Post by **maxnix** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:26 pm

Well, check the connections including the battery connections first.

Then focus on the CPS.

I am not too familar with the VQ.

Post by **hwyix** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:19 pm

tireguy240 wrote:My car stalled at a light today. When I went to turn it on the Slip, VDC off, and Check engine light where on. The car also took awhile to turn. The lights are still on and the car is getting harder to start. If anyone could help I would appreciate it.

Is your car still under warranty? Between your code and this " getting harder to start." Sounds likeit is cam sensor. If you can a get a hold of scope I would hook it upand test it. ( scope not scanner )

Post by **fixer** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:34 pm

usually when you trouble with driveability and slip light comes on, it indicates a bad throttle body. ck the brake fluid level and top it up . if the slip light goes off, thaen you might need brakes. the dtc indicates something unrelated to vdc and slip light

Post by **SteveTheTech** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:03 am

The most likely cause of this is a temporary failure in the throttle position sensor/circuit that will cause an engine signal code in the ABS system, thereby illuminating the VDC light and slip. The best way to prevent this from happening is to replace the throttle body and resetting your base idle parameters and self learning.

Post by **qship96** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:20 pm

cant you just replace the throttle position sensor without replacing the entire throttle body?

Post by **SteveTheTech** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:03 pm

Nope.

The throttle chamber is usually <$200 from the dealer with a core of ~$40 or so.

Post by **bekric** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 2:58 pm

hi i got infinity g35 and i was got soon engine and vdc slip lights on and i replace throttle Chamber and now i got all lights off but after one day i replace throttle Chamber i loosed hitting inside the car and temperature go to height and getting hot so fast like temperature go all way up like in 20 min so if u can tel mi something about thank u

Post by **maxnix** » Sun Dec 21, 2008 5:48 am

bekric wrote:hi i got infinity g35 and i was got soon engine and vdc slip lights on and i replace throttle Chamber and now i got all lights off but after one day i replace throttle Chamber i loosed hitting inside the car and temperature go to height and getting hot so fast like temperature go all way up like in 20 min so if u can tel mi something about thank u

Huh? Please translate into English so we might understand and help you.

Post by **bekric** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 12:30 am

sorry my English not very well.if any one can understand me please help.my g 35 i replaced throttle Chamber then after 2 days i loosed hit inside and get to fast over hit temperature then i flush antifreeze then i get back hit inside and temperature get beck in normal . but i have to add every day some antifreeze because it"s loosing antifreeze and i don't know how if any one understand me and if know anything about this please answer me thank you...

Post by **SteveTheTech** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:27 pm

Hey there, bekric. welcome to Nico!

It sounds like you have an air bubble in your heater core. You will need to purge this to get the coolant temperature to stabilize. The easiest way to do this is to let the car warm up until it hits closed loop. If you look on the firewall (on the right side) you will see a small plastic screw by momentarily loosening the bleeder screw until it spurts out air, you will purge the air. There is something I feel is very important to mention. The screw is plastic and can/will damage very easily, be very careful. It may take more than one try to get all the air out. After opening the valve for 5-10 seconds close it and see if you have heat at idle, with the face setting on and the heat set to 90. If you have no heat at idle rev the engine with with no load (in park) to ~3500-4000 rpms for a second or two to momentarily increase the pressure in the cooling system and hopefully move the air bubble from the heater core.

Good luck,

Post by **bekric** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 1:51 pm

thank u Steve the tech i got my heat beck and temperature is normal but i got still problem with loosing antifreeze some people toll me can be cylinder head gasket burned up some of them toll me could be radiator liking. a have to have add almost every day 1/2 gallons of antifreeze if any one know anything abut please answer me thank you

Post by **SteveTheTech** » Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:46 pm

Oh this sounds completely different, my apologizes for not giving you more accurate information. Your details were a little sketchy.

You have a definite leak somewhere in the cooling circuit. You need to get this professionally evaluated soon. It sounds like you are getting allot of guesses and you need answers. Bite the bullet and take it somewhere, the dealer ideally and get it looked at before you destroy the engine.

Post by **NJ 666** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 6:23 pm

tireguy240, I would probably put the cam sensor in it. The 03's were recalled for them as well as the CKS. I35s and Q45s were recalled as well. The throttle plate issue is very common but since you have a cam code go after that.

Post by **zacks03g35** » Fri May 01, 2009 4:07 am

stalled out, slip,vdc off, service engine soon lights all came on. po340 code, replaced both camshaft sensors, still hard to start and all lights back on. What did I do wrong? My mechanic thinks could be bad ECM. Car has 121,000 miles. Thanks

Post by **SteveTheTech** » Fri May 29, 2009 4:02 pm

Ahh I got a little confused as this thread turned into a few related questions.

tireguy240sx-needs cam sensors

zacks03g35- in order to properly diagnose this you will need a multimeter or better yet an oscilloscope. If you do not have access to this equipment diagnosis will be a mere guess. A PO340 is usually resolved by replacing the sensor although it may be possible that the sensor has lost its power supply or ground. When you have a fault like this present in the car the ABS will store and Engine Signal code causing the related lights to illuminate.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2003/ec.pdf EC-334 Starts the diagnosis of the PO340.

This could turn into a pricey repair I strongly suggest taking this car to a specialist, it may cost you an hour or two of diagnostics but you should get a real answer, whether it is good (bad sensor, or a loose pin) or bad (ECM, or a damaged cam signal plate).

Not to question your mechanic but is he familiar with the VQ and Infinitis ECCS these cars can be tricky when something goes wrong.

2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls

2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (tireguy240)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (tireguy240)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (tireguy240)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (tireguy240)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (hwyix)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (tireguy240)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (SteveTheTech)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (qship96)

Re: (bekric)

Re: (bekric)

Re: (bekric)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (tireguy240)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (SteveTheTech)

Re: 2004 Infiniti G35 6speed stalls (zacks03g35)

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