2004 G35X CEL problem

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kingjeff
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:34 pm
Car: 2004 Infiniti G35

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Hey all....I'm hoping someone smarter than me can help solve my problem.

It all started when a stereo system was put into the G35 (its my brother in laws). A hole was cut in the rubber grommet where the main wiring harness goes through the firewall, behind the battery on the passenger side. The 10 gauge wire for the amp was put through this hole and run to the trunk.

This is when all the trouble began. That hole compromised the rubber seal and allowed water to get into the passenger compartment. This water wreaked havoc on the below computer. From everything I have been able to gather, that is the awd computer, although I could be wrong. I would happily stand corrected.

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The check engine light came on soon after. A used replacement was bought and installed. However this did not eliminate the CEL.

The code was (and still is) 1706. The car was taken to a transmission specialty shop where we paid for 2 hours of labor for them to come back and say that all electrical check out ok except for the PNP (park neutral position switch). So we had them replace that. CEL came on within 50 miles of driving after this, same code.

Having exhausted everything I could do on my own, we bit the bullet and went to Infiniti. After an hour, the came back with a quote of $4,400......yes that is correct four thousand dollars!! According to their mechanics the smj (part of the wiring harnesses) was bad, specifically pin #14. The car is worth roughly $10,000 so we were not about to spend 4K just yet.

After bringing the car home, we took apart the wiring harness connectors and cleaned them with a toothbrush and electronic cleaner (mold, etc had collected from the water). We put everything back together and of course, after roughly 40 miles, the CEL is back on; same code 1706.

Within the first 40-50 miles (before CEL comes on) the car seems to run fine. After the CEL comes on screwy stuff happens, ie all the dash lights come on and it feels like you are being kicked in the back by a horse whenever the car shifts. If you stop and restart the car sometimes the lights will go away. If not, if you erase the code with a handheld scanner, the process starts all over again...ie car runs fine until CEL comes on at 40-50 miles.

I find it hard to believe that one single bad connection would cause all of this. It would seem to me that if the connection was bad it would not take the car 50 miles to figure it out.

My last hope now is that perhaps the problem has something to do with the replacing of the awd computer.

I am really close to pushing the car off of a cliff somewhere. Any help that anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you.


joe603
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:45 am
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Sorry to hear about your troubles man...let me see if I can round up a good tech to help answer your question.

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biggie
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Best bet would be find an X in a junkyard and get what you can.

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Ace2cool
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Another possible option is that when the grommet was cut to run the monster cable, there was some sharp exposed metal, and over time, the wires have rubbed against the firewall and broken the plastic shielding. If this is the case, might just be strange coincidence that this coincided with the water damage. Happened to me, except mine was the monster cable rubbing, shorting to the firewall, and frying my alternator.

Test the suspect pin (you said #14?) with a multimeter and make sure it's not shorting to ground. Set the meter to Ohms, connect one lead to pin #14, the other lead to a chassis ground. If you get any continuity, that is your problem. You will need to isolate the rubbed part and repair the shielding.

Good luck and hope this helps to solve the problem!

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Ace2cool
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Just did a little more research, and the only connector with a "pin #14" seems to go to the control valve assembly, which would explain the hard shifts. The FSM has more in-depth troubleshooting steps, if you feel like crawling underneath the car and reading wires between the TCU and the transmission. This troubleshooting step will require you to drain the fluid, drop the transmission oil pan, and testing from the connection inside the transmission oil pan, on the control valve assembly, to the connector on the TCU.

Here's the Auto Transmission portion of the '04 G35 FSM: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2004/at.pdf

The troubleshooting step I am referring to can be found on page AT-203.

EDIT: Just verified, code 1760 is "Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve", which could be caused by ^^all that^^.

kingjeff
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2010 1:34 pm
Car: 2004 Infiniti G35

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Thanks everyone for the insights. I will take all of this information into account once the weather warms up and I go back at it.

For the time being, I was able to trick the NY inspection system (what a joke it is) and have a sticker on the car now. The best part is, the check engine light came on about 3 miles after the garage put the new sticker on the car! Haha

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SteveTheTech
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A check engine light isn't usually enough to fail a safety inspection but you would fail an emission verification inspection in most states. Clearing the light would not make it pass emissions as the readiness tests are not completed.

The P1706 is a pnp failure.
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There is a good chance both sides of the smj are trashed or at least severely damaged.

The reason for the expensive estimate is that the SMJ is the junction point of two main harnesses both might need to be replaced for a proper repair. If I had that car in my bay it would probably costs several hours of my time to remove the dash board on a car with serious water damage from improper modification.

You might be able to get away with running several new wires.

tollboothwilley
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I'm not completely sure about the 2004 X but for the 2003-2004 model vehicles there is also a TCM (tranmission control module) located in the same lower kick panel as the ECU. If this had water damage it could explain the issue you have with what sounds like connectivity to the Valve Body. Later years 2004.5 included the TCM inslde the transmission on the valve body.

It doesn't sound like a short though, since it drive fine until the CEL comes on. A short would seem to happen quicker.


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