2003 SE Transmission Pan

[Plumerio_Drive]

First off I'd just like to introduce myself.
I bought my pathfinder in May of 2011, and I'm still in the process of learning how to do general maintenance and simple fix-its.
So far all I've done to my pathy is a couple of oil changes, a K&N FIPK, cabin filter replacement, and some cleaning here and there (LOTS of washes )

Anyways, my latest adventure is changing the transmission fluid. I just rolled up on 90,000 miles and decided to give it a try.
I've noticed slight slipping in situations such as rolling up to a stop light. Let's say I'm coasting into a red, and it turns green. When I get back on the gas, it slips slightly until it catches the gear. I've heard good things about Lucas "Stop Slip" fluid, so in this change I'm planning to add a bottle of that just to see if my slips can somehow be remedied.

I found a FANTASTIC reference on this forum ( http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to ... r-qx4.html ) but ran into a slight problem on my part-time 4x4 SE model pathfinder. It mentions on there the hard pipes that run along the front side of the pan and cover up 4 (?) bolts underneath it needed to crack the pan and change the filter & gasket. I snapped some pictures, or tried to rather, of my transmission pan and the pipes running towards the front of it. Last weekend I was absolutely stumped as to what the best tool would be to get in there and take off those 4 bolts.

...So does anybody have any tricks up their sleeves to help me out here? What's the best method? Tool?
I'll definitely keep a close eye on these forums in the next few days, thanks in advance for any help.

~PD

[Towncivilian]

Welcome to NICO.

Since I only have a 2WD Pathfinder, I don't have any advice on how to remove those bolts with the diff in the way there. However, if you're just looking to exchange transmission fluid, you can exchange all of the fluid via disconnecting the transmission cooler return line. Instructions are in this thread under the "Transmission and driveline" Q&A section. You may also want to consider adding a Magnefine in-line transmission filter; details are also in that thread under the same section.

The in-pan strainer is more like a rock catcher. It doesn't filter anything below somewhere around 80 microns. If that gets clogged, you have bigger issues.

I would tend to avoid adding any transmission additives except Lubegard brand additives. As far as I know, the Lucas stop slip just thickens up the ATF. I've had noticeable results using Lubegard Red in my transmission (smoother shifting, less noticeable downshifts, not as much shock when switching in and out of O/D), and it's widely used by many transmission shops. If I were in your position, I would do a transmission cooler line exchange, add one bottle of Lubegard Red, and add the Magnefine filter I mentioned.

Do you tow frequently?

[Chris.m]

When I took off the pan, I unbolted the metal line going across the bolts to give me some wiggle room.

It still wasn't enough to get a socket in there, so I had to use a wrench.

I didn't have a racket wrench at the time, but it would probably be helpful

[Pathfound49]

When I took off the pan, I unbolted the metal line going across the bolts to give me some wiggle room.

It still wasn't enough to get a socket in there, so I had to use a wrench.

I didn't have a racket wrench at the time, but it would probably be helpful

+ on this. Unpack the new pan gasket a couple days before you do the job. This will allow it to flatten out making it easier to stay in place when putting the pan back in place.

[Plumerio_Drive]

Alright sweet guys, thanks for all the info!
I was able to pick up a 10mm flex-socket wrench at Northern tool & Equipment for like $10, so maybe later tonight I'll be able to crawl under there and see if all is ready to be done.

Thanks for the advice about taking the gasket out of the box a few nights before, I'll definitely do that sometime soon.

~PD