2003 Pathy complete timing replacement

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
850pathfinder
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:44 am
Car: 03 pathfinder SE

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Hey everyone im in the middle of picking up parts for my pathfinder to do the whole timing. have 160k on the clock and its been making alot of rattling sounds, both cold and hot. I was wondering if anyone has a good lead on timing chains. The main oem one is 80$. I know other brands are not as good but when beck arnley is 30$ (I know repackaged stuff thats probably chinese), i wonder how much im paying just for the fact it says the word nissan on the package. Ive been trying to find the part number for a Tsubaki chain but have been unsuccessful.

Instead of replacing the secondary tensioners im replacing the tensioner shoes. 13097-ZK01C is the part number i got from the TSB but can anyone confirm?

Does anyone know how many orings i need? and the part numbers, or a link to a complete list of parts and gaskets to get the job done right. Alsmot all of theonline nissan parts suppliers use a figure that does not go into very much detail at all. Ive been using this one and it has helped a lot. http://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/ ... &siteid=14

Lastly is it absolutely necessary to remove the lower cross member support to drop the oil pan or do i just have to remove the two front oil pan bolts that travel upwards into the bottom of the timing cover. That seems like a ton of extra work for two bolts or does the front oil pan seal up to the bottom of the timing chain?


TheBFG
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2017 5:18 am
Car: 2003 Nissan Pathfinder - 2 inch lift

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Did you have to remove the oil pan.
I am doing my timing chain and removing the oil pan seems ridiculous

Kev90
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Feb 15, 2017 5:20 pm
Car: 2001 Pathfinder SE 4x4

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I don't know if you have to drop the oil pan but I can tell you from experience if you do have to drop the oil pan it is a pain in the butt. I did mine cause I was replacing the rear main seal and also the rear lip seal for the oil pan was leaking. So when I did it the transmission was out and it still was a pain in the butt. With the crossmember in place you can only lower the oil pan an inch or so and can't take it out. The pan uses rtv sealent on 90% of it which is a pain to remove if the crossmember is still in place and the front diff (4wd only) is there. The oil pan also has 2 O rings for the oil pump that you need ensure are there so you have oil pressure. If I would do it again I would drop the crossmember to do the oil pan and then you have all the space you need.


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