2003 M45 trunk lid shocks do not keep trunk open

[SHREVE66]

Some times when I open my trunk, the lid doesnt stay propped open. Does anyone else have this problem on their 03 M? If 1 of them is bad, how do I know which 1 to replace?

[M4T5]

How ironic is this: zer...stiff

Lol... just the opposite. Maybe you could trade your trunk struts with those guys in the above link. Then everyone might be happier. Basically it sounds like your trunk struts are worn out. Replace them and your trunk should stay up again.

J

[szh]

Some times when I open my trunk, the lid doesnt stay propped open. Does anyone else have this problem on their 03 M? If 1 of them is bad, how do I know which 1 to replace?

Hmmm, there is a difference between "doesn't stay propped open" and the more usual complaint of "does not pop up enough to prevent the auto-close mechanism from reclosing the trunk lid!". This is a common problem with the 2003 M45 - happened to my car, and the dealer replaced both struts under warranty.

It sure sounds like your struts may be more dead that usual, if the lid will not even stay up! Oops.

There are three options:

1. Buy the struts from the dealer.2. Buy the replacement "open fully" strut from Burtman Industries (www.burtmanindustries.com).3. Buy the struts that somebody found at NAPA parts stores (search for that link).

Z

[SHREVE66]

Thanks bro. Im gonna order them now.

[Andrew224]

I had the same problem with my '03. Dealer replaced the struts under warranty.

Andrew

[M45Caliber]

mine were replaced under warranty 13 months ago and it's doing it again - already. I have to wait 30 days (grace period) for my just purhased Elite Warranty to kick in, then the dealer will order and replace the struts a second time. I wonder if I should purchase the Burkman struts and let the dealer install? Nah -- I have 3 years of new warranty, so I won't do that until the 35th month in. I understand it's doable by an owner - just not too easy and definately not a fun job - removal of the back seat and all, correct?

[M4T5]

mine were replaced under warranty 13 months ago and it's doing it again - already. I have to wait 30 days (grace period) for my just purhased Elite Warranty to kick in, then the dealer will order and replace the struts a second time. I wonder if I should purchase the Burkman struts and let the dealer install? Nah -- I have 3 years of new warranty, so I won't do that until the 35th month in. I understand it's doable by an owner - just not too easy and definately not a fun job - removal of the back seat and all, correct?

Huhh? There not talking about the suspension struts. There talking about the trunk lid struts.

J

[M45Caliber]

Well, here's the instructions -- it sure seems like they are saying you have to screw with the back seat... but maybe it's just me . . . I quote:

Just completed the install of the burtman industries universal trunk strut install. Very easy. Well worth the small price and excellent service from Jason Burtman. here are the instruction I used from him...1. Remove loose items/trunk net/trunk mat(s) from trunk2. Remove foam inserts (3) and cardboard tire cover3. Remove the 6 clips using a blunt-edged panel popper4. You now have access to the canister side of the strut, at the base ofeach trunk lid hinge.5. Remove the rear seat base - there is a round finger tab at the center ofeach side. Pull out on the tab and up on the seat base and the side willrelease. Make sure the seat belt receivers and seat base hooks (at the rearof the seat base) clear.6. Remove the bolt at each corner of the seat back towards the bottom farright and far left corner. Use a 10mm socket.7. Pull down the center armrest and carefully pull down the liner behind,exposing the wire support structure and two 10mm nuts. Remove the two 10mmnuts.8. Lift the seat belts around to the back of the seat back so they clear,then lift the seat back up (off of its mounting rests) and away from therear deck. BE CAREFUL when removing this from the car - take it out in onefell swoop and do not bang it against anything, as the backside had lots ofexposed metal which will scratch whatever it contacts (old installer talkinghere).9. You now have access to the rod end of the struts. In each corner of thecar at the base of the deck, under the big chunks of insulation, you willfind them. Use a broom handle to firmly support the trunk lid, and then usea pick tool to release the clips on each ball end on the struts. They willcome right off after that.10. Apply a little thread lock to each end of the new struc, then set thenew rods' ball ends to be the correct length and position by comparing tothe old strut. Install. They will snap on easily.11. Reinstall the seat and trunk liner parts accordingly.

They work like a charm. Trunk is a little harder to shut, but this isobviously part of the tradeoff with this particular solution.

NOT SOMETHING I WANT TO TACKLE -- I'll use the waranty

[M4T5]

Ugghh..... All that for two trunk struts?? Wow... I would have to pass too if I had a warranty.....I wouldn't have thought they would have attached them through the rear shell. I haven't looked at mine on my 07'. I wonder if they are that way as well?I could do it, but it would take me a while because I wouldn't want to scratch or scuff anything.I guess I spoke too soon!

J

[eric313131]

Mine doesn't even open right. I glad someone posted this I going to get it fix. It will stay open long enough for you to think your safe and then put your head under it and it cracks you right in the back. It is a heavy trunk and it hurt when it comes down on you.

[DRIPS]

people people people. This is not the community I know! The install is simple! WHere is your DIY attitude that I normally see all over this forum?!

I did the install. I posted those instructions. It has been a year and works like it did on day one after the install. THis is simple if you have a few hours. Plus I always love learning how each of my cars go together. This is a simple task. Just follow the install instructions. Ill also post pics that I got from Burtman industries (I think...cant remember):

1. Remove loose items/trunk net/trunk mat(s) from trunk2. Remove foam inserts (3) and cardboard tire cover3. Remove the 6 clips using a blunt-edged panel popper

4. You now have access to the canister side of the strut, at the base ofeach trunk lid hinge.5. Remove the rear seat base - there is a round finger tab at the center ofeach side. Pull out on the tab and up on the seat base and the side willrelease. Make sure the seat belt receivers and seat base hooks (at the rearof the seat base) clear.6. Remove the bolt at each corner of the seat back towards the bottom farright and far left corner. Use a 10mm socket.7. Pull down the center armrest and carefully pull down the liner behind,exposing the wire support structure and two 10mm nuts. Remove the two 10mmnuts.8. Lift the seat belts around to the back of the seat back so they clear,then lift the seat back up (off of its mounting rests) and away from therear deck. BE CAREFUL when removing this from the car - take it out in onefell swoop and do not bang it against anything, as the backside had lots ofexposed metal which will scratch whatever it contacts (old installer talkinghere).9. You now have access to the rod end of the struts. In each corner of thecar at the base of the deck, under the big chunks of insulation, you willfind them. Use a broom handle to firmly support the trunk lid, and then usea pick tool to release the clips on each ball end on the struts. They willcome right off after that.10. Apply a little thread lock to each end of the new struc, then set thenew rods' ball ends to be the correct length and position by comparing tothe old strut. Install. They will snap on easily.11. Reinstall the seat and trunk liner parts accordingly.

[SHREVE66]

I have removed the back seats. Takes about 5 minutes, if that. This would be a very easy project. Thanks for the help, Im going to order them tomorrow, didnt get a chance to do it today.

[M4T5]

Looks like a good time to upgrade the bass speaker too!! That's just weird to me seeing the gas tank right there....Is the 06 & up M's similar to this??

J

[DRIPS]

I did the sub upgrade when I had mine torn apart. I shortly thereaffter had to rip it all back apart to put the stock sub back in. Unless you plan on getting all of the equipement needed to properly wire a sub to the stock system (cleansweep, sub, amp, etc) then dont bother. You cant use the stock amp for aftermarket sub and expect any decent sound. Trust me. I did it.

[M4T5]

Could the factory amp be upgraded?

J

[SHREVE66]

I had an aftermarket amp installed. They cut out a piece of plywood, attached it to the back of the carpet/cardboard that covers your gas tank and mounted the amp on the side you see when you open your trunk. Very clean install! When I install the trunk shocks, I am going to remove the factory sub again, and install an aftermarket sub. But thanks for posting the pictures and the help.

[SHREVE66]

How the heck do you remove the rear deck?

[coss8223]

I tackled changing the trunk struts. First it is not as hard as it looks and the instructions contained within this posting works out great. The only thing is I am having trouble finding struts that work properly (and not wanting to go to infitinit to get factroy replacements for a zillion dollars). I think I might have found some at NAPA. They are 15 inch ones so a little smaller than factory installed, and our 80 pound ones. They were 38 dollars a piece and I had to order them. The part number is 819-5625. I will let you all know how it works. I noticed the factory ones were different for left and right. Have no idea why that would be since it is for trunk. Anyway will advise if those one from NAPA work out. I'm sure at 80 bucks for the pair, that's got to be cheaper than infiniti.

[coss8223]

I did use that part number mentioned. Joe confirmed it as well. They run about $80 for the pair. They work perfectly as replacements. I highly recommend them as reeplacements versus going with factory ones. Also the trunk pops open when I hit the latch a lot better than before. So no worries about that mechanism not working right. Hope this helps.

[DenverM45]

This is a great post. DRIPS thanks for the photos. I am going to give this a try. I think I have a few hours this weekend. I am going to look for that NAPA part number as well thanks for posting. Very helpful.

[Jeff Williams]

I will be tackling this job soon, as I have t obe at teh trunk to open it when I pop the remote. Otherwise, the trunk just motors back closed.

[diym45]

Thanks DRIPS, im about to tackle this project as soon as my struts come in.

[Y34GLORIA]

I will be tackling this job soon, as I have t obe at teh trunk to open it when I pop the remote. Otherwise, the trunk just motors back closed.

Hey congrats on the new purchase of the M45. I too coming from 1998 Q45 Y33 CIMA due to some jack a@@ decide to hit and run my car on the street (parked). I love the Q but I deicded the M is better for me this time cause its a lighter and smaller car. Y34 is so special that most people never notice or dont really care. This is the 11th gen of the GLORIA and 10 gen Cedric (luxury model) last gen of this long running series dating back 50's. The first Gloria was supply to the royal family by the Price company( later merged with NISSAN). CEDRIC/GLORIA were never intend for import outside Japan. All Cedric/Gloria in Japan were never ever equiped with an V8 and depend on the trim some with V6 TURBO and some with inline 6 Turbo AWD like the older SKYLINEs. Our car only last 2 model years due to the fact this body already existed in Japan in 1999 so 5 year for a new design was due therefore NISSAN decided its time to cease the production of Cedric/Gloria to new Y50 FUGA (I personally think its more of French Renault's decision). Why change the name of this 40+ years series. There u have a very unique and rare car that with Q45 F50 V8 and F50 style interior (Japanese Y34 interior is totally different then our car). As far as reliablilty issue, this engine need to take good care with good oil like AMSOIL or something equivelant and alway used good gas like Chevroon or Shell etc.. It should not burn oil if proper care was given. By the way my car is approaching 140k miles and it still run strong so it should give u trouble free for a long time like the Q dose.

[Jason B]

Some times when I open my trunk, the lid doesnt stay propped open. Does anyone else have this problem on their 03 M? If 1 of them is bad, how do I know which 1 to replace?

Hmmm, there is a difference between "doesn't stay propped open" and the more usual complaint of "does not pop up enough to prevent the auto-close mechanism from reclosing the trunk lid!". This is a common problem with the 2003 M45 - happened to my car, and the dealer replaced both struts under warranty.

It sure sounds like your struts may be more dead that usual, if the lid will not even stay up! Oops.

There are three options:

1. Buy the replacement "open fully" strut from Burtman Industries (www.burtmanindustries.com)

Z

I just got a fresh supply of these made. I've had a few asking about them and all these posts are old. Yes, it pops the trunk FULLY OPEN automated, by itself when you hit the trunk button on your remote, etc. Also, I've had other do this without removing rear seat on M, even though it's on a 5 min job to do.

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/zoompr ... _trunk_kit

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/zoompr ... _trunk_kit

There is also a video of each on each link.