2003 G35 6-mt, 133K miles

Yesterday I drove to the gas station and filled up w/ fuel. Car will not crank now. I can roll and clutch bump start, but nothing when I attempt to start with the key.

I have a brand new battery and starter. The fuel pump is working properly and as far as I can tell there are no loose wires or grounds. All the dashboard lights come on, alarm, power windows, etc all work as they should.

PLEASE HELP. Thank you in advance for your input.

gr8bryt wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 04, 2022 2:53 pm

2003 G35 6-mt, 133K miles

Yesterday I drove to the gas station and filled up w/ fuel. Car will not crank now. I can roll and clutch bump start, but nothing when I attempt to start with the key.
I have a brand new battery and starter. The fuel pump is working properly and as far as I can tell there are no loose wires or grounds. All the dashboard lights come on, alarm, power windows, etc all work as they should.

PLEASE HELP. Thank you in advance for your inputs.

Most likely corroded battery cables? If those cables are original it might be time to replace them.
Did you happen to measure the voltage across the battery after getting a rolling start to confirm your alternator is functioning?
It is not unheard of to have a defective cell even in a brand new battery.
Use a battery hydrometer to check individual battery cells.
Good luck

Could also be the ignition switch, the clutch interlock switch, fuse 71 for the interlock (in the IPDM), or the starter relay (also in the IPDM). You can find the diagram for your starting system here on page SC-12:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 3%2Fsc.pdf

Is the clutch interlock switch the same as neutral safety switch? Someone that I spoke with made that suggestion. Do these cars have one?

The M/T's don't have a PNP Switch, they have the Clutch Interlock instead. Only the A/T's have a PNP.

A buddy's old '97 Accord m/trans wouldn't start (no crank), and dealer partsman , many sources had different guesses.
Starter bad , a main power distrib. relay , clutch interlock relay , ignition switch @ column , ignition relay, theft circuit , battery terminals , starter solenoid , on & on & on . Clutch position (out) switch mentioned.

Ended up the clutch position switch , which closed the initialization from key/ign. sent to clutch interlock relay coil. This is one of the more cycled switches , per every 'fully' released clutch action !

macgiver wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 04, 2022 10:53 pm

Ended up the clutch position switch , which closed the initialization from key/ign. sent to clutch interlock relay coil. This is one of the more cycled switches , per every 'fully' released clutch action !

Yep, since the OP already changed the starter and the engine runs when push-started, the Clutch Interlock is the most likely culprit. If you check out the WD, there are only four things necessary for the starter solenoid to get juice. The ignition switch needs to close, the interlock switch needs to power the Starter Relay coil, the IPDM needs to ground the Starter Relay coil (security system), and the Starter Relay needs to close when the coil gets power and ground. We know the security system isn't in the way because it push starts. The rest is pretty rudimentary, and a test light at each step should quickly find the issue.

Thank you all for your inputs. I also found this article as well on another forum that gives some additional tips for resolution.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe- ... start.html

I'll replace this part today, and follow up with you all.

GREAT NEWS!!
The car is back on the road!

The problem was not the Clutch....Switch, but the little rubber piece that pushes in the plunger on the switch. Repaired with 5/16 bolt, nut and two washers.

Thank you all again for your inputs.

Wow that was actually the problem with this Accord and ALL those rubber grommets BAD - the brake Sw. & two for the clutch ( all-in & all-out switches ) . He couldn't reach the grommet hole and just left the clutch interlock switch hanging whereas he held in the button to start - we concluded it's like a different kind of anti-theft , cause it's hanging up and behind the plane of the lower dash
The switch ($39) actually worked , a replacement grommet was less than $ 10 BUT virtually impossible to install and not bust yourass nor get Uber-pissed !! He didn't buy one.

Clue was 3 months prior his brake-lights stayed on , and I showed him the grommet for brake switch was in pieces on the carpet floor.

Fixed