Post by
4xq »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/4xq-u207684.html
Mon Nov 03, 2014 5:27 pm
Engine off - the red/white wires should be battery voltage. They connect directly to the positive battery terminal and feed battery voltage over to the fuse box.
Engine running - when alternator voltage exceeds battery voltage, current flows from the fuse box through the red/white wires up to the battery. In other words, because charging voltage exceeeds battery voltage, current reverses direction and goes back through the red/white wires to charge the battery. Now you should be seeing alternator voltage on those wires, not 6.6. ( remember if you test for this you need to disconnect your jumper wire you put in or it will may screw up the test).
Your jumper wire is bypassing the red/white wires. You have connected the battery directly to the alternator charging cable which feeds voltage into the fuse box (it is not really the main battery connection as you are thinking it is).
But there is a wrinkle. By creating a new circuit from the alternator charging cable connector over to the battery, you bypassed the 120 amp fusible link which protects the alternator cable from direct shorts to ground. It works, but is not an ideal solution.
There could be internal corrosion of the wires as azhitman suggested, or you could have a problem at the connection on the positive battery terminal. The red square plastic connector will disconnect from the positive battery terminal when you pull the bolt out of it. You can then clean the connections up. While you have the red connector disconnected, you can do an ohms test (between the connector and the fuse box) to be sure the wires are good internally - they probably are, but the test tells you for sure. Those wires are pretty decent sized and should be 0 ohms.
I hope that is somewhat clear - explaining electical circuits is hard to do without diagrams.