2002 Q45 electrical issue alternator or bad ground?

[Dmacc420]

beginning a few days ago I the battery and brake light came on my gauge pod and charging system not working info box on dashboard

however I noticed no performance issues aside from a few flickering lights figured my alternator was beginning to go. decided to go get it checked. didn't have time to get a check for a few days that the light would go on and off light was off everything ran fine when the light was on I noticed a slight decrease in acceleration

on the way to the auto parts store to get the alternator checked yesterday at 60 miles per hour lost all ability to accelerate turned off AC and stereo acceleration ability returned got to the parts store alternator confirm to not be charging the battery when I leave the parts store the light turns off go back to the parts store have the alternator checked again working fine drove it all day

up until this point I believed I had a loose ground somewhere in the vehicle due to some odd electrical issues that would occur sometimes but not always for example driver side headlight will flicker sometimes passenger side never and fluxuations in the volume of the stereo outside.of the range of adjustment given by noise compensation this issue fits the pattern but has disabled the car

Is it possible for an alternator to go from full power a no wobble to nothing then back again multiple times over a week? Or does this sound like a wiring issue?

[Skibane]

Is it possible for an alternator to go from full power a no wobble to nothing then back again multiple times over a week?

Yes, it's possible.

This kind of problem is often called an "intermittent connection", because a good connection exists only part of the time (intermittently).

The bad connection could be in the voltage regulator (inside the alternator), or in the alternator charging circuit itself (rectifier diode going bad, loose wire or broken solder joint, worn brushes, etc.).

[Dmacc420]

Went ahead and replaced alternator problem resolved. Afterwards the service engine soon light came.on. Pulled code
P1145
INTK TIM S/CIRC-B2 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Circuit) - Right Bank
I found this list of Possible Causes

Malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM. Possible causes are:
" IVTC position sensor circuit open or shorted.
" Defective IVTC position sensor.
" Defective crankshaft position sensor (POS).
" Defective camshaft position sensor (PHASE).
" Accumulation of debris on signal pick-up portion of camshaft. (<~ where is this)

Also was told dirty oil can cause this code due to the use of oil pressure to control valve timing. Sea foamed oil and gas not vaccum yet and changed oil after.

Had code erased at ap store
Came back on after second startup

Found this
2carproscom/questions/infiniti-q45-2002-infiniti-q45-service-engine-soon-light

Just wondering if anyone had the same problem our experience with it in this vehicle

[EdBwoy]

Thanks for updating us on the solution for the electrical issue.

On the IVT code, yes it is possible for oil issues to result in that. Could you check your oil to ensure it is at the right level? Also, any idea when that was last changed and with what grade of oil?
- Those are the simplest steps.

Then, it could indeed be a sensor issue. How many miles does your car have?
Pull the sensor marked #1(passenger side) in the picture below and see if it looks gunked up and could use a quick wipe. If that fails, I would swap that one with the one on the left side/bank 1 to see if the code switches location to eliminate the sensor as being faulty
- Simple as well. However, to do this efficiently/quickly you would need an OBD2 reader (my basic one was 50 bucks from Autozone) or a dongle that works with a phone app.

Further reading on the source of the picture: m45-2006-camshaft-sensor-p0340-t607101.html#p6691736

[Dmacc420]

Light still on after oil change did it muself valvoline conventional 5w 30. Noticeable power loss after 60mph.
Should I sea foam thru vaccum lines then change oil again or should I just replace ivt cam and cramk semsors?
Found them all on ebay for about 60 total
Also is the car pk to drive while that light is on?

[Q451990]

I would avoid those eBay sensors... if you swap it out, and you still have the problem, have you really eliminated a bad sensor? I'd say no, because I wouldn't trust an off brand sensor. I'm making some assumptions about what you saw on eBay, so don't take offense at my advice... my guess is that they are off brand at that price.

If it were me, I'd buy the Hitachi sensors that are available from Rock Auto, since they made the OEM sensors for Nissan.

[Skibane]

Yep - Sensors are one area where it doesn't pay to go cheap, because trouble-shooting and replacing them again is almost never quick or easy.

Aside from being some brand that nobody ever heard of, the ebay stuff could be counterfeit (sold as "Genuine Hitachi"), from a batch that didn't pass the manufacturer's QC checks, repackaged stuff that someone returned after they ruined it, or from a shipment that was damaged in transit.

If you insist on using non-OEM stuff, at least buy them from a reputable supplier that will stand behind their parts.

Buy once, cry once.