2002 pathfinder engine removal

[luiscuadra]

hello, I have a 2002 pathfinder standard transmission. I'm
trying to removed the engine and seems to be stuck on something. all the bolts are removed including transmission ones. the transmission actually has already separated from engine about 1 inch but does not come out all the way. it feels like its stuck on the clutch assembly .
am I missing any hidden bolts by any chance, anybody has any idea why the transmission and engine will not come apart? any ideas will be very much appreciated.
luis

[atraudes]

I've only seen a few people pull their engines here, and I think they all had automatics. Some reading in case it helps:

post6572556.html
post6571437.html

[sigman70]

Sorry for the bump on this, but I am in the process of trying to pull my engine on my 2002 as well (a victim of the dreaded power valve screw issue!!). I was wondering how you access the top 2 bolts on the transmission? I can't see them at all from underneath or from looking down from the engine. I saw someone mention in another board about having the manifolds off, but I don't see how that would help based on where the top 2 bolts are located in the Haynes manual. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

-Dave

[EdBwoy]

Sorry for the bump on this, but I am in the process of trying to pull my engine on my 2002 as well (a victim of the dreaded power valve screw issue!!). I was wondering how you access the top 2 bolts on the transmission? I can't see them at all from underneath or from looking down from the engine. I saw someone mention in another board about having the manifolds off, but I don't see how that would help based on where the top 2 bolts are located in the Haynes manual. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

-Dave

When I pulled my engine out, I remember having to disconnect the driveshaft then undo the transmission and engine mounts so that the whole assembly was tilting down but supported by something sturdy at the transmission flange.
That was the only way I could access that stuff without a lift. Even then I had to "see with my hands" as the clearance was really tight.
(I also remember some bellhousing bolts missing as whoever didn't the first engine replacement elected to leave those out)
I see removing the manifolds as a way to get a long wrench in there, but you still need to eat your wheaties to get good leverage on that. In retrospect maybe I could have removed the entire power train together and separated them outside the vehicle.
Good luck mate

[sigman70]

Thanks EdB for the reply! The factory service manual actually does say to pull the engine and transmission out together, but the Haynes manual says to just separate the transmission and then pull out the engine (which is the route I'm trying to take). I saw in another post where a guy said he cut the water crossover tube with a saw (as he said there wasn't room to remove it because it hits the firewall), and he said this gave him access to the top 2 bolts. Everything is just so dang tight in this engine bay that I'm not sure how he even got a power tool in there to cut the crossover tube. I'm heading back out to see if I can figure something out. I'm considering maybe cutting a slot from inside the cabin to try to get to those 2 bolts!

[EdBwoy]

Maybe put some of the easily accessible bolts back in and pull the engine and trans up, unbolt the 2 headache bolts then lower the assembly again and remove the other bolts?
You should know that it's an exercise in contortion and precision power lifting when you try to align the transmission and the engine when you're putting it back in. Use a partner if you can.

[sigman70]

Thanks for that suggestion EdB! I actually only had one bolt out of the transmission...but now I'm seeing another issue. The two engine mount nuts on the drivers side (the ones on the bottom...they are connecting the bolts to the frame) are blocked by front differential (I have a 4x4), and it also looks like this might give me problems when I try to pull the engine from the transmission as there's only maybe a few inches between the oil pan and the front differential...so now it would appear that I need to remove the front differential too? Then the top engine mount nut on the passenger side, it looks like that is blocked by the exhaust manifold...so that would need to come off as well?? Do you have a 4x4 in the vehicle you removed your engine from? I'm almost at the point of giving up and junking this after seeing this latest roadblock...ugh!

[EdBwoy]

Unfortunately, the one I worked on was my RWD. The 4x4 is still chugging along at 287k miles and every time I'm under it changing oil I dread the day I have to remove the engine.
Anyway, the FSM probably calls for some elaborate plan to remove the engine in the 4x4 model, but I'm pretty sure we could make something work.
Going back to the manifold removal, I would attempt that. IIRC, the manifolds of the Qx4 are right against the engine bay sides and don't give much room for toils and hands. You might need to attack them from the top and bottom continuously. What this will give you is the space to access those 2 top bolts from underneath the truck.
... but it would also allow you to more easily access the motor mounts. I'm going off memory here, but just thinking outside the box, maybe you could unbolt the top nut of the rubber insulator instead of the lower one, or just remove all 4 bolts that hold the motor mount to the block? Would be a pain to line those back up without damaging some threads though.

If all else fails, might you have called around to see what someone would charge to remove the engine and drop your new one in (or are you just working on the damaged one)?

[AdamLowther]

Yep, I just did this on a 2001 manual. Had the same problem, but easy fix.

Its your shifter/throwout bearing/clutch are suck together. On the passenger side of the transmission housing close to the engine, you will see where the clutch hydualic thingy pushes on the lever to disengage the clutch. There are two bolts holding this to the bell housing of the transmission.

Take them off. Pry out the little rubber edging, so you can peek through the side through the hole. The arm that is sticking out the side has a pin, like a hitch pin in it, running north to south a inch or two inside the little hole you are peeking through. At the top (north) of the "hitch pin" there is one of those quick connect cotter pin type things, like you would see on a hitch pin. Its probably laying flat so its a bit of a beetch. I bent a old flat screwdriver about 20 degrees, about an inch from the tip, and I was able to used that to pull the retaining cotter-pin-thing out. Then the hitch-pin like thing should drop down through the lever that is sticking out of the transmission, and then all will come free and your motor should pull nice and easy.

No need to drop the transmission.

I just went through this and the install. you are through the hard part PM me if I can help.

PS if you are taking the clutch off later in this process, you will need a clutch alignment tool later on, or you can make one BEFORE you take it off.

Adam.

[AdamLowther]

For the top two bolts, use about 4 feet of extensions and come at it from the back and you should be able to do it. I did drop the front differential, wasn't too bad, four bolts on each side and then the driveshaft back to the transfer case

[sigman70]

Unfortunately, the one I worked on was my RWD. The 4x4 is still chugging along at 287k miles and every time I'm under it changing oil I dread the day I have to remove the engine.
Anyway, the FSM probably calls for some elaborate plan to remove the engine in the 4x4 model, but I'm pretty sure we could make something work.
Going back to the manifold removal, I would attempt that. IIRC, the manifolds of the Qx4 are right against the engine bay sides and don't give much room for toils and hands. You might need to attack them from the top and bottom continuously. What this will give you is the space to access those 2 top bolts from underneath the truck.
... but it would also allow you to more easily access the motor mounts. I'm going off memory here, but just thinking outside the box, maybe you could unbolt the top nut of the rubber insulator instead of the lower one, or just remove all 4 bolts that hold the motor mount to the block? Would be a pain to line those back up without damaging some threads though.

If all else fails, might you have called around to see what someone would charge to remove the engine and drop your new one in (or are you just working on the damaged one)?

Wow, 287k miles...that's amazing!! I guess I'm going to go ahead and try to remove the manifolds and see if that works for the two top transmission bolts...the water pipe that's over the passenger side took me 2 hours to remove last night, so I haven't even tried the manifold yet. That's a good idea about just removing the top nut of the rubber insulator instead of the lower ones!! Don't know why I was thinking that I had to remove the lower ones too. So hopefully after I can get the manifolds off, then I'll be able to get the top 2 bolts and the top motor mount nuts off...then I should have everything off so that I can attempt to pull the engine (I'll have a buddy help me with this). When the engine seized up, I took it to the dealer and was quoted $5000 for a used engine (with 150,000 miles...mine had 117,000 on it when it seized) or $10,000 for a new engine. So I thought I would give it a shot to see if I could do it myself (plus it's a good learning experience). I work two jobs during the week, then have my boys every other weekend so unfortunately I just don't have time to work on this as much as I'd like. Thanks again and will let you know how it goes!!!

[sigman70]

Hey Adam, thanks for your reply as well!!! I actually have an automatic, so no clutch involved. I see where I have to remove a few hardlines from the engine that go to the transmission before I attempt to pull it, but other then those I think I've got everything else unhooked. I'm going to try to remove the manifolds as I said in my other reply and see if that will give me the room to get those top two transmission bolts out. I think I might have to still drop the front differential because it looked like the oil pan would hit this when I would attempt to separate the engine from the trans...good to hear that it doesn't sound like too much was involved in dropping it!! I'll keep you guys posted...and thanks for the PM offer too!

[sigman70]

Well I took off the passenger side manifold, which now allows me to get to the motor mount top nut...but I still am not having any luck getting to where I can get any kind of leverage to get those top 2 trans bolts out! I think I'm going to do like another member did and just cut that dang water crossover tube so that I can remove it, which should give me clear access to those bolts. I have another question though...I don't have the engine slingers installed, so I was wondering how you guys removed your engines? Did you install the slingers, or did you use some other point on the engine to mount the chain?

[EdBwoy]

I wouldn't cut that crossover pipe. I accidentally broke mine when removing my heads and it was the most difficult thing for me to locate. Then i got a 2003 pathy engine whose pipe needed a little drilling. Of course, your results may vary.

Do you actually have slingers? I made do with putting my straps under the motor mount brackets.

On leverage for the top bolts, might you be using some kind of penetrant? Pb blaster I believe works, but I found this magical substance at autozone called freeze off. Very few fasteners have not responded to it.
Also just out of curiosity, what tool are you using for those bolts?

[sigman70]

I wouldn't cut that crossover pipe. I accidentally broke mine when removing my heads and it was the most difficult thing for me to locate. Then i got a 2003 pathy engine whose pipe needed a little drilling. Of course, your results may vary.

Do you actually have slingers? I made do with putting my straps under the motor mount brackets.

On leverage for the top bolts, might you be using some kind of penetrant? Pb blaster I believe works, but I found this magical substance at autozone called freeze off. Very few fasteners have not responded to it.
Also just out of curiosity, what tool are you using for those bolts?

The reason I am thinking about removing the crossover pipe is because I'm going to be replacing the engine, and since the replacement engine should have it on there, I didn't think it would be needed (I still have to source a replacement engine...but I didn't want to do that yet until I have this one out).

I don't have slingers...they are about $50 and I was hoping to avoid having to buy yet something else...I actually did read in another forum where someone else mentioned they used the engine mounts. Now did you use an actual chain, or did you use something else, like a towing strap?

I do have PB Blaster that I can use, might have to look at that freeze off. I have one of those u-joint socket adapter things:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-universa ... ckType=G38

that I'm using with the 17mm socket. When I get that on the bolt with 17mm socket, then go underneath the car and attach the breaker bar or my torque wrench, the darn socket then always seems to slip when I go to try to unloosen it. Maybe I need another person up top that can try to hold the 17mm socket onto the bolt as I try to turn it from underneath. I also have one of those ratcheting flex wrenches that it feels like I can get onto the bolt from the top, but the wrench isn't long enough to get any leverage on it.

[EdBwoy]

Well, if you can remove, not cut the pipe, then I'd do that.
It seems you have the right tools brother, except the flex joint tools might not like angles any close to 90*. I think I used my breaker bar with a very long extension to get those to bolts... or just used my short wrench from the top and put all my weight on it...I also remember having to once put my breaker bar on the crescent/open wrench end and hammering the top of the breaker bar to loosen them. (I can't remember which nissan/infiniti make or model I dat that to)

While were still outside the box, can you remove the other motor mount, which will allow you to lower the entire engine a few inches and maybe get the tools a little straighter in there?

[sigman70]

Hey EdB...success!!! I was able to get that dang water crossover pipe off - was a pain in the a$$ but it finally came off and then I was able to get the top 2 transmission bolts loose by spraying PB Blaster and using a long 17mm wrench. Now I still have to get the remaining transmission bolts off and take off the front differential and then double check to make sure everything is unhooked from the engine before I attempt to go and pull it, but wanted to thank you (and Adam) for the replies and help!!! Hopefully the actual removal goes smoother then the process has been up until now! Then it will be time to look for a replacement engine!

-Dave

[rgk]

This is an inspiration for those of us lurking, thinking about performing a removal or swap.

[EdBwoy]

Hey EdB...success!!! I was able to get that dang water crossover pipe off - was a pain in the a$$ but it finally came off and then I was able to get the top 2 transmission bolts loose by spraying PB Blaster and using a long 17mm wrench. Now I still have to get the remaining transmission bolts off and take off the front differential and then double check to make sure everything is unhooked from the engine before I attempt to go and pull it, but wanted to thank you (and Adam) for the replies and help!!! Hopefully the actual removal goes smoother then the process has been up until now! Then it will be time to look for a replacement engine!

-Dave

Glad you managed to get that done. And thanks for reporting back on your success. It's always great to know how effective our forum advice turns out to be.
The other bolts should not be as much of a headache. The actual engine removal should be easy too. You might be able to reduce the abuse on your motor mounts if you remove both brackets so you easily slide the engine forward to pop it off the bellhousing; then lift it up... if I recall the configuration under there correctly.

[sigman70]

This is an inspiration for those of us lurking, thinking about performing a removal or swap.

Thanks! I'll tell you, it's been a long process...at least for me...but it's been a good learning experience as well! Since my Pathfinder hasn't been my daily driver (which I hope to change with this engine removal & replacement), I haven't been under the gun to get it done, which has been nice...for a daily driver, I'm not sure this is something you could get done in a weekend, so I would say to have a backup vehicle handy, lol.

[sigman70]

Hey EdB...success!!! I was able to get that dang water crossover pipe off - was a pain in the a$$ but it finally came off and then I was able to get the top 2 transmission bolts loose by spraying PB Blaster and using a long 17mm wrench. Now I still have to get the remaining transmission bolts off and take off the front differential and then double check to make sure everything is unhooked from the engine before I attempt to go and pull it, but wanted to thank you (and Adam) for the replies and help!!! Hopefully the actual removal goes smoother then the process has been up until now! Then it will be time to look for a replacement engine!

-Dave

Glad you managed to get that done. And thanks for reporting back on your success. It's always great to know how effective our forum advice turns out to be.
The other bolts should not be as much of a headache. The actual engine removal should be easy too. You might be able to reduce the abuse on your motor mounts if you remove both brackets so you easily slide the engine forward to pop it off the bellhousing; then lift it up... if I recall the configuration under there correctly.

Thanks EdB!! I think I can get to the 4 bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the engine, so I'll look at doing that. Thanks again for all the help...hopefully I'll be reporting back soon that the engine is out!!

P.S. I think I'm going to start a new thread about suggestions for performance upgrades to the engine...I've found a few different sites and wanted to see people's opinion on them.

[atraudes]

I'm subscribing to that thread

[sigman70]

I'm subscribing to that thread

Just posted it under the title "VQ35DE engine performance upgrade - opinions wanted"

[EdBwoy]

Thanks EdB!! I think I can get to the 4 bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the engine, so I'll look at doing that. Thanks again for all the help...hopefully I'll be reporting back soon that the engine is out!!

P.S. I think I'm going to start a new thread about suggestions for performance upgrades to the engine...I've found a few different sites and wanted to see people's opinion on them.

Wishing you a successful engine pull.
... will be lurking the other thread.

[sigman70]

Well I FINALLY got the engine out this weekend!! Did it all by myself too...I couldn't believe how easy it slid off the transmission once I got the engine mount bolts removed. Now it's onto sourcing an engine...thanks again EdB for all the help!!!

[EdBwoy]

Congrats Dave. Youre welcome, always glad to help. With your seemingly busy schedule it's understandable if projects take a little long. Did you end up strapping your manifolds or engine mount brackets?
Any success locating decent engines in your area?

[sigman70]

Congrats Dave. Youre welcome, always glad to help. With your seemingly busy schedule it's understandable if projects take a little long. Did you end up strapping your manifolds or engine mount brackets?
Any success locating decent engines in your area?

I actually used an engine leveler and hooked it to 2 big bolts that were at the front of the engine, then used the bolt stud on one side where the water crossover pipe mounted, and then found a threaded hole on the other side and bought a bolt to fit and hooked it up. I did take off the 4 engine mount bolts on each side that bolted to the engine - that helped the engine slide right off the transmission. I talked to a local shop today and they convinced me it would be a good idea to take my engine to a machine shop to have them take a look and see if they could repair it...so once I get the chance, I'm going to call them and see what they would charge to look at it. Will let you know what the outcome of that is.

-Dave

[bmfarmer.85]

FWIW. I just finished replacing motor and trans in my 03 4x4. Some things I learned along the way;

1. Follow the FSM, if you look in the Haynes it tells you to pry the Rear Main Seal out of the housing all jalopy jank style. That alone made that book fire starter material.

2. You do not need to drop the front suspension member as the FSM states. Just remove all exhaust piping, and Cats leaving the shorty little manis off the block.

3. Remove front diff, you'll thank yourself later.

4. Radiator out, p/s and a/c pumps off block and hung to the side as FSM states.

5. Remove top nuts on motor mount not the 4 to the block, from there lift with engine hoist while supporting trans sufficiently and remove trans cross member. With both effectively "floating" on jack and hoist you can get to the top 2 bolts quite easily by sliding forward just a bit once off mounts.

6. With stubby Manis left on block using a long web sling that cradled the bottom of block and wrapped the cat flange side of mani you can lift engine without risk of hurting an undersized threaded hole on the block.

7. Have one bad MFer of a trans jack, you'll want to Remove and reinstall trans and transfer case together and they are large and heavy as f***.

Im sure theres tons more I'm missing but feel free to msg me.

[2mileshigh]

Great thread I've been doing an engine swap on my 2001 pathfinder with a 3.5 L 4x4. I went threw all the fun you did. I pulled the engine and transmission together was tough. Has to drop the front axel but only on the drivers side. Got the done engine in now got to put the transfer case on today, maybe the exhaust.. Good read fellas.

[sigman70]

Good points farmer! I'm glad I removed the front diff when I pulled mine too - I was debating about not doing it at first, but thought I might regret it later.

Glad you got your engine back in 2miles...hope you get it all back together and running soon! I've had a few things come up, so I'm looking at waiting until spring before I start back up on mine.

-Dave