2001 Qx4 Stock HID Bulb Placement??

[netwreck94]

Hi Guys,

Recently both my HID low-beams have failed, and I when I went to install new bulbs I found that a retrofit kit had already been used. My problem lies where the previous owner didn't use D2R bulbs (he used H7) so I have no idea of the actual placement of the bulb, or exactly how they go in. I purchased a D2R HID Kit from DDMtuning which included a pair of the bulb socket holders/connectors that the bulb itself plugs into. Since I wasn't able to see how the factory ones were fitted, I'm unsure as to the position to insert the actual bulb into the headlamp housing. Does the electrode (the wire thing that runs underneath the bulb) face up or down? And when you insert the bulb into the headlamp housing, do you have to twist/turn it "in" or do you simply insert in the correct direction and then use the wire clamps to hold it in place? From what I read you must first insert the bulb into the headlamp, and then once clamped plug the bulb into the socket holder----once plugged in and twisted 180* will the bulb socket connector face a certain direction....like straight up and down (vertical)?
Here's the way I understand it, and the questions on the steps I'm unsure of...

Unplug/remove battery

Unscrew black cap to gain access to bulb and headlamp housing.

***Insert Bulb into headlamp housing and clamp----Which Direction should bulb be inserted and do you twist/turn to get it secure?

***Plug bulb into socket connector and turn 180*----should the connector now be in a straight vertical position?


Any help would be much appreciated as I'm without a garage and hoping to do this this afternoon prior to another WNY winter...

Thank You

Evan

[skiski329]

This depends on the housing. you side that he did a retrofit, i'm not sure how the back of the headlamp housing looks like. Is it possible to put the bulb into the fitting and then turn? and after you turn you would than clamp it down (assuming you have a clamp on your headlamp housing). Iv'e install many HID kits and bulbs, but have not yet come across an H7 bulb but i would assume that it's just like all the other ones i've installed and the electrode should be facing down.
As for the turn or no turn, i think you may need to look if it's possible to twist it or not. In my A/C i have to insert (H11 bulbs) and twist it. on the Pathy retrofit (D2S bulbs) i have to insert the bulb and then screw in a backing (the bulb dose not move, it's secured by the back screw). I would think your case is going to be that you insert the bulb and then have to clamp it down, but try to see if you can see any tracks for twisting, and be careful trying to twist the bulb in to test so you don't break the bulb, but if it is twistable than it should twist in reasonable easy. if there are no tracks for twisting then no matter how hard you turn, it won't go anywhere.
sorry i can't be more specific, but i would have to see where your inserting the bulb (with no bulb in it) to be able to gauge if it's just a clamp down or a twist.

[netwreck94]

Thank you for your reply...

The previous owner did a retrofit using an H7 bulb wired directly to the ballast. I purchased a D2R kit that will use a bulb connector that is then wired to the ballast (like the stock system). I've included a photo of my housing (the OLD bulb is pictured, I'm using a separate bulb that connects into the device in the bottom photo). I do have the clamps on my housing, but haven't been able to tell if it inserts and turns..from what I've read it doesn't. So I'm guessing that I'll insert the bulb first (with the electrode facing down) and then clamp it in with the clamps. After clamping I'll then attach the socket connector (2nd photo) by inserting and twisting 180* clockwise, correct? I do know that the bulb does insert and twist into the connector, so it will just be a matter of lining it up correctly...should the connector be vertical once turned 180*? After those steps it looks pretty simple as it's all just plug and play from there since he used a similar kit before except with an H7 rather than D2R as I have. Also, he did have the h7 clamped in (no twisting to remove) when I took it out so I would assume that verifies that I'll be doing the same thing with this D2R, then clamping, and then attaching the connector.

Thanks Again for your help!

Evan



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[netwreck94]

Just thought I'd post a follow up in case anyone else needs the answer to my questions above, and my feedback on the kit I used. First off, I purchased a 35W HID Kit with D2R bulbs and socket connectors (2nd photo) from DDM-Tuning. It was an excellent quality kit with solid metal ballasts, and most importantly it uses AC Power rather than the cheap (and horrible quality/reliability) DC power ones sold for around $30 on Ebay (plus DDM gives a lifetime warranty). Finished with a very steady stock looking beam with no flickering whatsoever. As for the fitment of the actual bulb, the electrode faced down (thanks skiski) and once in that position the square notch (at 12:00) and the little round one (at 10:30) on the bulb fit perfectly into those notches of the headlamp housing. Once clamped and secured you have to try to line up the socket connector just right to get the bulb pushed into it, and then around a 15* clockwise turn. It was very difficult to gauge how exactly to line up the socket connector without being able to see the holes where you need to insert the bulb, but I found a trick that helped. When the bulb is clamped in there are two round nubs that stick out and are perfectly horizontal...if you take a knife and cut a small edge onto the outside of the socket connector where you need to insert it into the bulb's nubs you can line it up by feeling that cut and one of the nubs at the same time. The connector will be at about a 7:30 position when inserting into the bulb, and then at almost 9:00 once turned 15 degrees to secure it. From there it's just a matter of plugging everything in and you're good to go. I took out the battery and air-box to do this which is absolutely necessary in order to get proper clearance. All in all I spent around $75 and around 2 hours to do this, those with more mechanical savy than I could easily get it done in an hour or less.