2001 pathfinder with a wobbly ride

[kcackler]

Just bought a new to us pathfinder and unfortunately didn't notice the bad wobble that happens at 45+ when hitting bumps, letting off the gas, making turns, or anything else...

I've done some research and it looks like the rear lower link bushings are the likely culprit. So I need to replace either the links or the bushings. Links are easier but bushings would allow me to use poly bushings.

My question is - which should I choose? This truck is in Puerto Rico and driven on very rough roads and in constant stop and go and sometimes extremely quick stops. Which is going to be the longest term fix for me?

[asnorton44]

Long term, definitely poly bushings. Also you will want to replace the uppers as well while your at it.

[vonscorpio]

Not to hijack Kcackler's post, but my QX4 is in the same boat.
Is there a compelling reason to replace the whole links? Or are they usually reusable with the new poly bushings?
I've been putting off this job due to not knowing what I need to buy. How many bushings are needed for a complete replacement? And is there a tried and true source for these polyurethane bushings which users of this forum recommend?

[atraudes]

The arms can absolutely be reused, but people here usually get another set to prep before the operation to make the swap a lot quicker and easier. 4x4parts.com is the go-to source for poly bushings, but I believe there are more.

For full info:
replacing-rear-control-arms-guide-t587665.html

[Freeze Time]

topic600981.html

That is my thread about the same topic. I went the permanent route and don't regret it for a second.

[kcackler]

Thanks for the info, everyone. The roads here aren't too terrible but with those bushings out it's very scary to drive at 55+ and hit a patch of uneven road. Making the orders today.

I'll get the bushings from 4x4 parts but what's the best source for replacement arms? Are the DORMANs from Rockauto good enough?

[Hawairish]

Doing both doesn't make much sense.

If your control arms are still in good shape, there's no point in buying new arms just to replace the brand new bushings already in them. I'd say just buy the bushings separately.

Rubber bushings dampen better, though. Yes, shorter life, but for the roads you're on that sound pretty rough in generally, the poly bushings will equate to a rougher (but firmer) ride overall. If you're just buy new complete control arms each time, it's not a terrible replacement option. The key to prolonging rubber bushing life is to not tighten the control arm bolts until the vehicle is on the ground and at nominal ride height (i.e., shake the truck to settle the springs, spare tire in place, gas in tank, etc.).

Don't get me wrong, poly bushings are good stuff. eBay has an option that's cheaper than what what 4x4 parts ("AC") sells, but the blue/purple ones that they sell are from a very reputable brand, SuperPro. I run the eBay ones and they've done well. I also run SuperPro up front. To me, poly is poly.

[vonscorpio]

The arms can absolutely be reused

Thanks for the reply. And special thanks to both Freeze Time and Atraudes for their links to the other comment threads. I found their link to the complete kit for every bushing needed. (here it is, for anyone else looking and lazy like me: http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981266-comp ... g-kit.html )

I know my next project for this winter. Once I get that sway fixed I can go play in the snow!

[Hawairish]

Or, if you want to save $50+:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8x-Rear-Upper-L ... J2&vxp=mtr

AC charges way too much for the OEM hardware (nearly double). You can buy them for a few bucks from Courtesy Parts, a Nissan dealership. Use "nis10" for a discount that'll pretty much cover shipping. See my notes here for the p/n's and other replacement options:

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/ ... /?p=751158

[vonscorpio]

Or, if you want to save $50+:

I'm listening...

My mechanic friend has urged me to replace the metal as well.
I looked into the Dorman replacement parts ( Dorman parts 905-804, 905-803 and 905-802 x2) but the reviews indicate the bushings fall apart around 10k-30k miles.

I hunted around and found Moog makes replacement parts (Moog RK660904, RK660905, and RK660903 x2). No reviews on those, but I've had good luck with other Moog parts. I was hoping someone else here had suggestions or a strong opinion on the matter.

[barnaclebob]

Are you sure its not the shocks? Are the oscillations vertical, horizontal, or roll?

[carnal_c30]

No need to replace the bars if you do bushings, of course as posted it is less downtime if you have an extra set of arms to press the new bushings in first. I would only bother replacing the arms otherwise if they were bent or overly corroded.

I would also agree to check the shocks. Although they may not be completely blown they could be the originals or cheap aftermarkets and be tired. I have both a 01 and an 02 QX4 and although the shocks on the 01 weren't blown and leaking the newer shocks on the 02 make the 02 feel much more controlled (new shocks and bushings for the 01 coming soon)

[vonscorpio]

It's got new KYB shocks and struts all the way around. Springs seem fine.
At any speed over 35 mph the back end swings to left when I step on the gas, and swings to the left when I let off the gas. And has gotten so bad freeway driving is a bit scary. And in all wheel drive mode the backend wags like a dogs tail regardless of the accelerator.
I worry the bushings are so far gone that the metal parts might be damaged, and I am equally worried I won't find out for sure until I've hammered/pried/incinerated the old bushings out, thus grounding my wife's daily driver.
Which brand is best for having on hand for replacement? Moog? Dorman? OEM?

[barnaclebob]

Ok then yeah that sounds like the bushing issue. I haven't personally experienced it yet at 148k miles but am on the lookout.

[carnal_c30]

Personally if you just swap arms without doing the poly bushings I would go OEM. The quality of Moog and Dorman have dropped when it comes to the rubber used in their parts (made in Taiwan/China). If you do the poly bushings in the aftermarket arms then either should be fine. In my experience the OEM arms are probably fine even if the bushings are really bad.

[vonscorpio]

Is there a simple trick to getting the old bushings out? The new ones all seem to come in two halfs, which should simplify installation. But what about removal of the expired bushings?

[saskapath]

I did mine a couple of months ago. Used an electric drill to drill as many holes in the rubber as possible. On a couple of them I twisted the drill around and it kind of walked around the bushing. The idea is to cut the rubber so you can pull the inner steel tube out. Use a 1/4" bit or something in that range. Next grab onto the inner steel tube with a big pair of pliers or vice grips and twist and pull until it comes out. Then us a sawzall or hacksaw and cut through the outer steel part of the old bushing, being careful to not cut into the actual metal on the control arm. I located my cut where the arm joint is. Finally use a small cold chisel and hammer to split the outer steel part of the bushing, grab it with your pliers and twist and pull until it pops out. By the time I had finished the last one it was only taking a couple of minutes.

Good luck!

[donald]

Is there a simple trick to getting the old bushings out? The new ones all seem to come in two halfs, which should simplify installation. But what about removal of the expired bushings?

"simple"? yes, a press

If you're not fortunate to have one or know someone with access to one, removal of the old bushings is quite a laborious task. You can do it like saskapath outlines above. You MUST be careful with the sawzall if you choose that route. As saskapath mentions, don't cut beyond the bushing metal collar such that you start cutting into the arm itself. The sawzall will save time tremendously, considering you'll have 8 (all 4 arms) bushings to remove.
The other option is the hand hacksaw. Trust me, maybe on the first arm, you'll feel fine. When you starting attacking the other arms, oh man that sawzall starts to be tempting to run out and buy one :P

Also, when installing the poly-bushings, please consider putting in quality poly-busing grease. There is possibility that poly bushings may bind and make squeaks and creeks when flexing.

[atraudes]

Definitely use grease when you install them, and don't be stingy with it. I went without initially and it creaked and groaned like crazy. Ask me how stoked I was to do the work again I used this grease from Energy Suspension. It repels water really well which means it doesn't come off your hands easily either, so consider using latex gloves.

[vonscorpio]

Thanks for all the replies and advice atraudes, donald and saskapath. I have a friend with a lift and access to a bushing press. I am going to pay him to do this for me. He's got shop access, shop talent, but much more reasonable hourly rates.

I'll be sure to advise him on the grease. I'd rather not have a squeaky ride or have this done twice.