Hi guys,

I have a 2001 Pathfinder SE V-6. I purchased it like 2 weeks ago not running. ECM was fried on it.

I purchased used ECM, mobilizer and key from online. I also installed new IAC valve before installing the used ECM.

I scanned for codes a couple of days ago and P1610-1615 came up. I disconnected battery cables and let it sit until today. I scanned for codes today and none came up.

Being the key i purchased with used ECM would not fit my ignition i had to get original key, newly purchased key that came with used ECM, cut and programmed from one another (supposedly).

I found notes from a previous mechanic with a list of issues and one of those being " blowing 15a fuses, Power Socket 2" so i checked the fuse before i ever installed my ECM and surely, the fuse was blowed and there is a box of fuses in the center console so it was blowing a lot i would assume. It hasnt blowed any as of now since i installed the new/used ECM but i havent had it to start either.

"No start", i tried hitting it with a few shots of starting fluid earlier and it didnt attempt to start. So i assume its not getting any spark. I can hear the fuel pump click when i turn the switch. It has a new battery.

I do know the codes P1610-1615 have something to do with the theft system or something like that but like i said i scanned it today and 0 codes.

Let me hear what you guys think and any information will be greatly appreciated.

You should have a flashing security light on the dashboard over by the door with the key in the off position. That means security system is on. When you turn the key to the "on" position, the light should go off, which means the ECM recognized the key. If the light is steady red, it means the key is not recognized, and the car will not start.

Can you get the light to go off?

The light is going off in the "On" position. Still no fire, start, etc....

Next step I think is to check all fuses in the underhood fusebox by the battery, then all fuses under the dash, including the elec B fuse.

The service engine soon warning light on the dash comes on when you turn the key to on?

You might have popped another fuse somewhere.

Just to be clear, as the Title says "start but no run", it cranks or doesn't crank? If it doesn't crank, does the dash (gauges) light up when you turn key to the ON position, and then go off for a second or two when you turn to the START position? Is there a loud click from the engine bay when someone turns key to START?

Guys im sorry about the title; should say, "Cranks but no start, no run"

Rockwood i have checked all fuses earlier. There all good but i dont see a "elec B fuse" do you mean eccs2 fuse? If so its good also. Yes Rockwood the service engine soon light does come on when in the "On" position but when you crank it it goes off.

AlanAZ it cranks but no start. In the "On" position the dash lights do light up and then on "start" position most of them go off, including the service engine light.

One thing i just noticed; after i try starting the engine, take the key out, shut the door and walk to the front of vehicle, hood up, i can hear a loud click and then you can hear something like a gear on a cog turn and it sounds as if its on the drivers side. The noise last maybe 2 seconds. I have not noticed this before but that does not mean it has not been doing this the entire time, i probably just havent noticed it.

Thank you guys

that sound is the throttle body closing

Well, the security system seems to be working properly, fuses are good, and the ECM is getting power. You are not throwing any codes, so it seems to be recognizing the key properly. You used some starting fluid to show no spark.

With a no start condition, at this point if you had a good ECM, you would go check the crankshaft position sensors as sometimes those fail without throwing codes. If one is bad, you get no spark.

There are two of them - one under the crankshaft pulley ( a little hard to see sometimes) and one back by the flywheel. So, to check if the ECM is seeing them, disconnect them one at a time, and try to start the car. You should get a p0335 or a code close to that. Then reconnect and clear the code. They are waterproof connectors - you push on the release tab until the connector pops off. Some wiggling / fiddling may be necessary. You can test for voltage at the connector with the key in "on" - should be 5 volts - if you wish.

That test will show the circuits to the crank sensors are ok, but not prove for sure that the sensor itself is good or bad. On page EC-336 is how to test the rear crank sensor with a volt meter and a screwdriver. Try the same test on the front one. Manuals are here:

https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder ... athfinder/

For reference, the procedure to clear a p1610 is here:

https://www.autocodes.com/p1610_nissan.html

Hi guys,

Ok, i just got back to the pathfinder today.

Thank you so much Rockwood for the useful information. I will look at that next if this new issue i found doesnt fix it when figured out.
I unhooked the connections to the fuel pump to be positive the fuel pump is working and it isnt. How do i check to see if the fuel pump is getting power at all?? I tried checking the 2 large wires going in to the pump but not sure what i should have my meter set to. I have never really used a meter that much but anyways i did undo the 2 fuel lines to the pump and had my GF turn the switch to on and back off quickly a couple of times and no fuel ever came out. When you turn the switch you can hear a very slight buzz by the fuel pump some where for a second.
I just checked the 2 relays under the hood and their good. Are there any more relays elsewhere for the fuel pump??
The codes i got earlier; could they have the fuel pump and ignition locked even though their not showing with a scanner (after leaving the battery disconnected?)
Thank you guys for your time

Ok guys, the fuel pump is not getting power to it. I think it would be safe to say no spark either being no start after the starter fluid. Do you think it might be the anti-theft lock mode being i did pull the P01610-1615 codes?
I really puzzled and any information will be greatly appreciated

Thank you

Start by troubleshooting your fuel pump. You need to know if it is the ecm causing it or just a relay... I have uploaded the fuel pump diagnostic procedure for you here : https://dropfile.nl/f/iDTbF0

Let us know your findings.
S.

fleurys,

Sorry for such a delay, things have been real busy here.

So i did the diagnostics on for the ECM in regards to the fuel pump. Hopefully i did it correctly. Anyways i checked terminal 28 on the ECM and i never got 0-1.5v as the switch is turned to the "on" position for the first second and there afterwards i had like 15v battery voltage.
I checked relay 1-2 power supply circuit and i have right at 12v. I have checked both relays previosly and they were fine.
I checked for voltage at the fuel pump and there was none.
If anyone has any other ideas please let me know. Thank you guys in advance.

**update**
I went out just now to verify no voltage at the fuel pump.
When the switch is turned on i have 11 and some odd volts for a "second" but not every time the switch is shut off and back to "on" but if you turn the engine to start it i have 9 and some odd volts as long as your turning the engine over.
Any ideas??
So it seems to be that the fuel pump is getting power.

I had similar issue with my 98 cranked but wouldn't start. Turned out my cam position had gone out (built into the distributor). Truck started fine once installed a distributor. Not that this is your issue but worth looking into.

Note: used a reman first, (mistake lasted about a year then the distributor itself failed) had to buy a new one.