Siliconed all power window tracks a few weeks ago and it was a big improvement.
Today while lifting the drivers side window switch (momentary / auto full up) it went up about an inch and then said ‘nope’ and went back down. Tried again, same.
Trying again, this time it went up about 7 inches and I grabbed it and pulled to help it up and it closed.
Instead of using the momentary function I next used the switch by holding it up without releasing and it functions fine. (Always lowers without issue using either function). But further use (holding switch in up position until closed) indicates some new wonky hesitation in mid travel now.
I thought of using some CRC mass-airflow-cleaner on removed switch assembly (tested on a removed /defunct faux wood clock/air vent dash piece I have and zero effect to either plastic finish).
Is it more likely the switch assembly or window motor with Paths ? 2001.0 LE
I've read here that there is a reset button(?) underside on switch assembly ?
2001 Pathfinder Power Window Issue
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mdmellott
- Posts: 1151
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2019 3:32 pm
- Car: '13 Kia Soul+ 2.0L AT
'02 Pathfinder SE 3.5L AT P/4WD - Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Re: 2001 Pathfinder Power Window Issue
The grease in the window regulator track, running down the middle of the door, gets dirty and dried up over time. I had the same issue with my driver side window. After taking off the door panel and carefully removing the plastic sheet barrier so it can be reused, I cleaned the track and guide slide of all the yuck that was there and then applied some silicone grease I had. Problem solved.
There is a safety feature built into the window motors that detect interference when being closed automatically. If something is in the way of the window, it will stop and then lower a few inches. Very sticky window channels and a gummed up dirty regulator track will have the same effect as if something is in the way of the window.
If the regulator motor gets out of sync with where the window should be when it is fully closed, it will behave like something is in the way when the window closes completely and it will open a few inches automatically. That's where that reset button comes into play so that the motor and the closed position of the window can be put back in sync. There's a simple process involved to make that happen. See page BT-20 of the FSM. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2Fbt.pdf
There is a safety feature built into the window motors that detect interference when being closed automatically. If something is in the way of the window, it will stop and then lower a few inches. Very sticky window channels and a gummed up dirty regulator track will have the same effect as if something is in the way of the window.
If the regulator motor gets out of sync with where the window should be when it is fully closed, it will behave like something is in the way when the window closes completely and it will open a few inches automatically. That's where that reset button comes into play so that the motor and the closed position of the window can be put back in sync. There's a simple process involved to make that happen. See page BT-20 of the FSM. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 1%2Fbt.pdf
Re: 2001 Pathfinder Power Window Issue
Ah-ha. Iv’e been meaning to clean that middle track after looking at examples at the junk yard (photos below for others). But been waiting to combine it with fixing the ‘door-check’ too.
When I first siliconed the tracks I also shoved in the spray straw on either side of glass (window lowered), centered near interior handle door release, and angled spray hoping to get some on metal channel / poly guide.
Was thinking of using White Lithium Grease (?) on channel once opened (read it somewhere). Though I imagine cleaning any thickened gunk off will be more important than the lubricant choice, being slick plastic on a smooth metal channel. Really hope that’s all it is - thank you.
fwiw - On other cars I’ve just cleaned vapor barrier well then slit it where I need, then sealed the hanging slit flaps back in place with thick ultra tacky aluminum tape (Nashua 324A). Sounds hack I know, but it’s effective. Maybe I’ll look to see if Sika or others have any dispensable bitumen because I always find the black perimeter seal to have failed or not go back in place well from weathering or dirt. We will see.
Here’s some junk yard photos of the center track being discussed if it helps anyone:
Door Vapor Barrier - https://imgur.com/a/iu0reG3
Regulator Guide - https://imgur.com/a/Az8dQnU
Regulator Guide 2 - https://imgur.com/a/pDRaK45
Motor Assembly - https://imgur.com/a/84kOCEG
When I first siliconed the tracks I also shoved in the spray straw on either side of glass (window lowered), centered near interior handle door release, and angled spray hoping to get some on metal channel / poly guide.
Was thinking of using White Lithium Grease (?) on channel once opened (read it somewhere). Though I imagine cleaning any thickened gunk off will be more important than the lubricant choice, being slick plastic on a smooth metal channel. Really hope that’s all it is - thank you.
fwiw - On other cars I’ve just cleaned vapor barrier well then slit it where I need, then sealed the hanging slit flaps back in place with thick ultra tacky aluminum tape (Nashua 324A). Sounds hack I know, but it’s effective. Maybe I’ll look to see if Sika or others have any dispensable bitumen because I always find the black perimeter seal to have failed or not go back in place well from weathering or dirt. We will see.
Here’s some junk yard photos of the center track being discussed if it helps anyone:
Door Vapor Barrier - https://imgur.com/a/iu0reG3
Regulator Guide - https://imgur.com/a/Az8dQnU
Regulator Guide 2 - https://imgur.com/a/pDRaK45
Motor Assembly - https://imgur.com/a/84kOCEG
Re: 2001 Pathfinder Power Window Issue
In my case it turned out lubricating the regulator / motor ‘pulley’ (see photo) had the greatest effect.
Pulley (junk yard photo) —> https://imgur.com/a/0EtCSdv
Blather:
I cleaned regulator track first. It was pretty clean already except for some hard deposits of white grease (which is enough to cause resistance I’m sure). I then silicone greased the track & its guide and the two side window channels, along with the top / bottom mini pulleys at either end of regulator track. Front window channel rubber strips were frayed halfway down, I thought for a moment the loose frays were the issue causing binding, but after cutting them off - no.
Window still wasn’t operating smoothly after above lube, better, but still issues. I resolved I would probably need a motor etc. or that the issue was with switches and hopefully I could clean them. I had lost the momentary-full-up-down action of the drivers switch too.
I disassembled the switch panel just down to the circuit board contained by green housing. The drivers window switch (now a little white slider) was not moving back/forth smoothly. It had resistance. I sprayed MassAirFlow Cleaner over everything and… made it worse. Panicked, I then had another genius idea (the first was using MAF Cleaner) and sprayed silicone over everything and… free’d things back up. The drivers switch was sill sticky but moved as before. (not sure if those switches are resistive film like a studio slider or what).
Temp connected back the switch panel and no progress made. I thought about it for a second (was running out of time) while staring at the door guts through a mirror and saw the large motor pulley. I wondered if the sides of the pulley could have gunk binding against its metal bracket. Sprayed it down and got the improvement I was after. Took more care to aim & saturate specifically between metal and pulley and got the full result. Gloobed it up with silicone grease for good measure hoping heat will migrate it after silicone spray wears off (?)
Window flies up & down now. I’ve either sanded down, or weakened, or greased every trim fitting to make future removal a breeze. (took care of the loose door-check while I was in there too, e-z & fast).
Oh! and for some reason the drivers switch regained momentary full-up-down but is less 'touchy' requiring a more decisive throw - which is just fine with me. * I was only connecting the large harness to the switch panel and not the door lock wires for testing. As soon as it was all buttoned back up it all worked fine.
(If you see someone driving along in a black Path repeatedly lowering & raising the drivers window with a self satisfied look on their face that will be me.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Below are some photos for anyone who’s never removed the door trim before, just ignore this if you’ve done it before.
*There’s more to it than I photographed but this is just to help avoid prying too much or in some of the wrong places.
Switch Panel & Arm Rest clips - https://imgur.com/a/tDjRWtt
Door Release Trim - https://imgur.com/a/rmU4RGL
Seat Memory Switch - https://imgur.com/a/VohCclD
Trim Tools - https://imgur.com/a/e8COz8I
Vapor Barrier - https://imgur.com/a/xoQJu4H
Location of Pulley causing me issues - https://imgur.com/a/5pKPg2h
Pulley (junk yard photo) —> https://imgur.com/a/0EtCSdv
Blather:
I cleaned regulator track first. It was pretty clean already except for some hard deposits of white grease (which is enough to cause resistance I’m sure). I then silicone greased the track & its guide and the two side window channels, along with the top / bottom mini pulleys at either end of regulator track. Front window channel rubber strips were frayed halfway down, I thought for a moment the loose frays were the issue causing binding, but after cutting them off - no.
Window still wasn’t operating smoothly after above lube, better, but still issues. I resolved I would probably need a motor etc. or that the issue was with switches and hopefully I could clean them. I had lost the momentary-full-up-down action of the drivers switch too.
I disassembled the switch panel just down to the circuit board contained by green housing. The drivers window switch (now a little white slider) was not moving back/forth smoothly. It had resistance. I sprayed MassAirFlow Cleaner over everything and… made it worse. Panicked, I then had another genius idea (the first was using MAF Cleaner) and sprayed silicone over everything and… free’d things back up. The drivers switch was sill sticky but moved as before. (not sure if those switches are resistive film like a studio slider or what).
Temp connected back the switch panel and no progress made. I thought about it for a second (was running out of time) while staring at the door guts through a mirror and saw the large motor pulley. I wondered if the sides of the pulley could have gunk binding against its metal bracket. Sprayed it down and got the improvement I was after. Took more care to aim & saturate specifically between metal and pulley and got the full result. Gloobed it up with silicone grease for good measure hoping heat will migrate it after silicone spray wears off (?)
Window flies up & down now. I’ve either sanded down, or weakened, or greased every trim fitting to make future removal a breeze. (took care of the loose door-check while I was in there too, e-z & fast).
Oh! and for some reason the drivers switch regained momentary full-up-down but is less 'touchy' requiring a more decisive throw - which is just fine with me. * I was only connecting the large harness to the switch panel and not the door lock wires for testing. As soon as it was all buttoned back up it all worked fine.
(If you see someone driving along in a black Path repeatedly lowering & raising the drivers window with a self satisfied look on their face that will be me.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Below are some photos for anyone who’s never removed the door trim before, just ignore this if you’ve done it before.
*There’s more to it than I photographed but this is just to help avoid prying too much or in some of the wrong places.
Switch Panel & Arm Rest clips - https://imgur.com/a/tDjRWtt
Door Release Trim - https://imgur.com/a/rmU4RGL
Seat Memory Switch - https://imgur.com/a/VohCclD
Trim Tools - https://imgur.com/a/e8COz8I
Vapor Barrier - https://imgur.com/a/xoQJu4H
Location of Pulley causing me issues - https://imgur.com/a/5pKPg2h
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