2001 Pathfinder. No start, no spark
2001 Pathfinder. No start, no spark
I have an issue with my pathfinder, started i believe because the plugs had not been replaced in quite a while. It got me to the store but when i came out it would not start. although it did turn over. since then I have changed the plugs and the cam positioning sensors. but I'm still getting no fire to the plugs. I was only able to test this by spraying starting fluid into the intake. My question is, Is there an easy way to test the individual coils? If anyone has any other suggestions about what I need to test and how to do so, I would appreciate any and all feedback.
Last edited by EdBwoy on Sun May 28, 2017 9:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Revised title
Reason: Revised title
Re: Broken Truck
Have you tried using a code reader and seeing if you get any engine codes. On the Nissan it will store pending codes that haven't failed enough to trip the Check engine light. Found this out due to similar issue and the cam position sensor was partially unplugged.
Re: Broken Truck
Yes I went and bought a cheap obd reader , but not knowing what i was doing with it i erased the codes before realizing that i had to scroll to see the ones after the initial one. that one was p0300 and basically no help. I now know what that means and how to operate the reader but that does me no good until i can get it running enough to have it pick up the codes again. but thanks for the suggestion.
Re: Broken Truck
Try disconnecting the MAF and see if it will start
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fleurys
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Re: Broken Truck
What year is your pathfinder ?
Coils will not do the symptoms you're having... You would need like 3-4 coils dead for it not to start and even then you would feel like if the truck wants to start (on the other cylinders)... Do you feel it wants to start or is it no fire to any plugs ?
one more thing that could prevent fire is the crank sensor... Once I have the year, I will help you diagnose it better...
Coils will not do the symptoms you're having... You would need like 3-4 coils dead for it not to start and even then you would feel like if the truck wants to start (on the other cylinders)... Do you feel it wants to start or is it no fire to any plugs ?
one more thing that could prevent fire is the crank sensor... Once I have the year, I will help you diagnose it better...
Re: Broken Truck
Easiest way is the old time method.. disconnect spark plugs and put them one by one outside connected to the coil and try to start ,.. you should have a spark. If all of them have a spark your problem is somewhere else.
Re: Broken Truck
its a 2001 and im going to try pulling the plugs to see if each coil has fire today. where is the MAF sensor?
Re: Broken Truck
ok found the MAF and unplugged it and there was no change. Due to the difficulty in getting to the 2, 4, and 6 spark plugs, I opted to check the 1, 3, and 5 coils first. there was no spark whatsoever from any of these three. I read a post the other day that said if the security light did certain things, then there was a way to know what the problem is, but i dont remember all it said. The security light does come on intermittently when the key is off, but when the key is in the on position it is off periiod. No flashing in otherwords. is there something this should be telling me?
Re: Broken Truck
Possibly a bad crankshaft position sensor, but to get real precise with the diagnosis you'll need an HEI ignition tester to determine if any spark is being produced at the coil.
Re: Broken Truck
The security light should blink with the key off - after you turn the key off the light goes solid red for about 30 seconds, then starts blinking. When you turn the key to "on", the security light should go out. That means the security system recognized the key and will allow the engine computer to start the car.
When you turn the key to "on" the check engine light should come on along with your other warning lamps.
Probably should check fuses at this point if you haven't. There are fuses under the hood for your ignition coils and engine computer. Just check any fuses that seem related to engine starting or running (under the dash as well.) You might get lucky.
If all that checks out, I would check crankshaft sensors next . There are two of those - one is tucked up under the front crankshaft pulley, and the other is back at the flywheel. Both need to have voltage coming to them with the key in the on position (kind of a last check for an electrical problem there).
The front one does not seem to fail very often, but is least expensive. The back one is more likely to fail, but is 85 bucks or more depending where you get it. You should pull the back one and look at it - I think there are a couple of versions depending on the vehicles manufacturing date. Just to make sure you get the correct one.
If you could get to a pick and pull you could get some used ones to use for testing and then keep them as spares.
When you turn the key to "on" the check engine light should come on along with your other warning lamps.
Probably should check fuses at this point if you haven't. There are fuses under the hood for your ignition coils and engine computer. Just check any fuses that seem related to engine starting or running (under the dash as well.) You might get lucky.
If all that checks out, I would check crankshaft sensors next . There are two of those - one is tucked up under the front crankshaft pulley, and the other is back at the flywheel. Both need to have voltage coming to them with the key in the on position (kind of a last check for an electrical problem there).
The front one does not seem to fail very often, but is least expensive. The back one is more likely to fail, but is 85 bucks or more depending where you get it. You should pull the back one and look at it - I think there are a couple of versions depending on the vehicles manufacturing date. Just to make sure you get the correct one.
If you could get to a pick and pull you could get some used ones to use for testing and then keep them as spares.