2001 Pathfinder Coil and Sensor questions

[MavisB]

Hello, first time posting to this site, but I have benefited from it since I purchased a 2001 Pathfinder 4 years ago. Thanks everyone!

I have two main questions:

1) Around a year ago I received a P1320 on the pathfinder and had a dealer tell diagnose ignition coils 2, 4, and 5 as bad. The service rep indicated that its best to replace all six at once despite the fact that 1, 3, and 6 were not showing signs of problems. At the time, I was working part time as a student and so I couldn't afford to do that. I bought the coils for 2, 4, and 5 as well as new spark plugs and did the work myself (with the help of this site and youtube). I'm in a position to purchase and replace the other three oils and plugs, but I still have not seen any indications that the older coils are causing any problems. My question is a request for input on the advice this service tech gave me at the dealer. Was he just trying to get more $$ or is that truly the recommended approach? Given that it has been a year, what would be the recommendation?

2) After some routine maintenance, the P1140 code came up around a week ago. I read this post from ages ago: (1) and have tried to determine the best approach for tackling this. It seems that according to that thread, the most likely cause is the crankshaft position sensor. Part number 23731TB. According to this parts store: (2) the part has been replaced by part number 23731-2Y52A. For the P1140 code specifically (as opposed to the P1145), I would need to replace the sensor on the passenger side. These are my assumptions, but in the old thread I posted above, all the images and references can no longer be viewed. It seems like a fairly easy job. Am I wrong about this? Is there something else I should be doing in order to verify that this sensor is indeed the cause of the problem? Should I avoid driving the vehicle until I can get this fixed?

Hopefully I have given enough information here. Thanks in advance for anyone willing to answer these questions.

For some reason I'm getting grief trying to include urls in my post. The urls are referenced below.

Code: Select all

http://forums.nicoclub.com/yet-another-pathfinder-intake-timing-sensor-p1140-t122770.html
http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-crankshaft-posi~23731-2y522.html

[fueler]

Dont use the site - use the factory service manual !!!!

[MavisB]

Dont use the site - use the factory service manual !!!!

Hi fueler, I found the service manuals after making my post. That will be a big help. Why shouldn't I use the site, and what exactly do you mean by that? Don't submit questions?

[fueler]

there's a lot of bad info online, I would try to find the problem yourself before relying on the internet

[04pathse]

Have you changed the oil recently? Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.

[04pathse]

a p1140 code can also be a faulty or dirty intake valve timing control solenoid valve - it uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.

[MavisB]

Have you changed the oil recently? Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.

Actually the oil was changed immediately prior to the light coming on. Could it have been a side effect of that work? It was done by a dealership.

[PathyPop]

From my brief experience with this issue -

Regarding the ignition coils, I would have no problem buying only the ones needed as you did. I had a Saab for 10 years during which two went bad. My independent mechanic only replaced those ones. They aren't like shocks, etc, that wear the same rate and you'd want to replace all at the same time. Also, one going bad doesn't affect the others.

Regarding the cam sensors, they are very easy to get to with a 10mm socket. I checked mine by test running with them disconnected first and I ended up buying one from a junkyard just in case. I did clean my crankshaft sensor at the same time. It was pretty mucked up but not a problem.

Regarding those solenoids, I had my own issue with them (my first post), but my problem code was a P0021. If you decide to clean them it's very easy leave the VVT body on the engine and to only remove the actuator by removing a single 10mm bolt and sliding it out to inspect and flush out the screens and moving parts. You can also apply 12v to the connector to test operation - it only moves about 1mm and clicks. Removing the complete unit is not hard either (3 10mm bolts), maybe 15 minutes each, but likely not necessary. Don't go to the dealer for this, Gardena Nissan charged the prior owner, a single female, $1300 to change these and a cam sensor! They also quoted $1450 to replace a rear main seal!

I'd rather drive my vehicle off a cliff than go to a dealer. A good independent wins every time.

[attofarad]

Regarding the coil, I suggest buying OEM Hitachi. I had one go bad, replaced it with aftermarket from Oreilly Auto. Went ahead and ordered some OEM spares (one of each type: cyl 1 and cyl 2-6) from Rockauto.com, where they can now be bought for ~$40 each. The Oreilly one went bad within a couple of weeks -- replaced it with OEM spare, and still fine 2 years later. Like PathyPop says, I wouldn't replace them until they need it -- at 224k miles, I've only had the one coil go bad.