2001 Path stalling fluctuating idle crank or cam sensor?

[Km1ll3r91]

Hello, so about a month ago I purchased a 2001 nissa pathfinder se, had some problems since don't even know why I'm still bothering at this point.... any way since purchasing I have replaced both crank sensors (aftermarket) code didn't go away, iacv happened and ecm replaced, now the car still drives OK , however doesn't start like it should and idle flucates from 1500 drops to around 500 jumps up again to somewhere between 1200 and 1500.

So the codes I pull daily are p1335, p1336 crank sensors! And p1441

I am yet to pull a can sensor codes however all my other resear points there

A few of my ideas here are 1, can sensors 2, aftermarket crank sensors? 3 maf sensor 4 injectors or coils or i don't know

What I'm asking basicly could any of these be failing without throwing codes? Or should I stick to diagnosing the engines codes?

I will try to post the videos pics I have so far documented for myself swell as you

[Km1ll3r91]

Also the car every so rarely the car also will stall out at stops, starts right back p sometimes idling poorly sometimes just right back normal, then won't happen for the remainder of the trip, as I said its pretty inconsistent leads me think something is dirty or poor connection somewhere or failing can crank sensor like I said again I'm at a loss here

[spike753]

It certainly sounds like the symptoms of a faulty crank sensor(s). The code seems to confirm that. Now if i understand correctly you have already replaced the crank sensors with after market ones?

Crank sensors can be a bit touchy. I have a dodge that i put an aftermarket crank sensor in that it didn't agree with. Sure enough i put a genuine mopar one in and have had many trouble free miles. I heard the same story multiple times.

Also check the wiring harnesses to them. If there is a problem with the harness the computer will throw those codes as well. my guess is if there is a problem with the wiring it would fairly close to the sensor. Some one could of tried to "fix" something.

Also wouldn't hurt the check the fuel pressure as well just to rule out any issues there...


This is all assuming that the new ecu you put in came from a reliable source and isbthe right one for the vehicle. A ecu that has not been reflashed is going to have " learned" the setting of a different car potentialy causing problems. You can try to tell the ecu to relearn. Check out the how to section for info on that

[Km1ll3r91]

Tomorrow ill be putting new spark plugs in snd cleaning maf and throttle body should of done it when I did the iacv. Will post back with results.

[Leo1998]

Sounds like the MAF sensor. My 98 was doing the same thing at stop lights, replaced the MAF and it fixed the problem.

[Km1ll3r91]

Does a faulty maf throw a code ivit has one

[Leo1998]

No, not on mine. I can't for sure say the same for your '01
before i figured out it was the MAF, I took my intake manifold off to clean the IACV and that didn't fix it and it sucked! Where as the MAF sensor is screwed into the air-intake tube and took me a few minutes to replace. I didn't try to clean it because it had a crack in the cover.

[Km1ll3r91]

Thanks for that information I figured if that were the problem itd throw codes

[Leo1998]

As for the P1441...The fuel tank filler cap and the Purge Volume Control Valve are the more common problems that will trigger the P1441 code on Nissan vehicles.

My P1441 code was for a tiny piece of charcoal that prevented the Purge Volume Control Valve from closing and threw a code.I removed the PVCV and blew into the ports and was able to blow air through meaning the valve was stuck open. Banged on it with my ratchet a few times and couldn't blow through it anymore, fixed. Now it will happen again because the charcoal inside the charcoal canister is coming apart and being sucked through the line by the PVCV. I tapped into the evap line under the hood and added a fuel filter to catch all those little bits of charcoal from reaching the PVCV and because I'm to cheap to spend 250 bucks on a new one

[Leo1998]

Here's a test you can do to see if your MAF is the problem. Start it and once it's warm unplug the mass airflow while it's running and see if it shuts off or stumbles. If it does then the sensor is good. If it continues to run without change then the sensor is bad.

[Km1ll3r91]

Well basicly ive ruled out the p1441 is non returning and since I posted this I havent had any occurenses with the same problem, maybe the fuel regulator took time to statt working, I still plan todo spark plugs soon got post poned due to a spontaneous weekend camping trip lol, decided to warm up in the good ole midwest!

Since the only returning code with all scans completed was p1335 the crank sensor

[Km1ll3r91]

Well, went to change spark plugs finally and they didnt even need to be done, they were like new, put new ones kn anyway, but same with the maf it had also been changed not to long ago. So i did clean the maf anyway i was bit hesistent really. But i did find the throttle body did need cleaning, but none of these have changed much sems to run a bit better but didnt fix the starting rough idle i plan on doing idle relearn tomorrow and will post back

Car still starts and immediatly dies if i dont apply any gas very intermittent still

[Jsteele69]

Some time ago I had to have the idle control valve replaced on my 1998 QX4,it is located under the intake manifold,and guess what it has to come off. I didn't do it myself because I hate to work on cars if I don't have to.
The reason was it would run fine if you were on the gas driving, then when you get to a signal or stop sign the idle would go down to 300 rpm in gear sometimes it would die out. After the idle control valve was replaced it ran fine.
I wouldn't replace those spark plugs unless they never have been,it is a pain in the butt to do.

[Jsteele69]

Some time ago I had to have the idle control valve replaced on my 1998 QX4
The reason was it would run fine if you were on the gas driving, then when you get to a signal or stop sign the idle would go down to 300 rpm in gear sometimes it would die out. After the idle control valve was replaced it ran fine.
I wouldn't replace those spark plugs unless they never have been,it is a pain in the butt to do.

[zach7685]

tapped into the evap line under the hood and added a fuel filter to catch all those little bits of charcoal from reaching the PVCV and because I'm to cheap to spend 250 bucks on a new one

#retweet I did the same thing, works like a champ!


Back to the idle, does it look like this? http://youtu.be/1SIdvj4RmdE

[Km1ll3r91]

Back to the idle, does it look like this? http://youtu.be/1SIdvj4RmdE

sort of except mine is running rough and misfiring, 1st start up in the morning runs fine but let it set 30 minutes and come back it misfires and same symptoms you describe. did you ever find what your problem was???

[rgk]

Running well at cold start, then starts to run rough? Check the coolant temp sensor.