2001 or 2003 GLE

[zz6549]

I'm currently looking at two cars, a 2001 Maxima GLE and a 2003. Both are automatic, and both cost the same (8k CAD).

The 2001 has about 70k km on it (45k miles) and the 2003 has about 116k km on it (70k miles).

As much as I would've liked the VQ35, I figured have 45k less would serve me more than a faster engine. However, after doing some reading, I've seen a lot of people saying that they've needed to replace the O2 sensor on the 2001 maxima. The 2003 seems to be free of such complaints.

Is the VQ30DE unreliable compared to the VQ35? Also, is 45k more on a maxima going to make a big enough difference to justify a car that's two years older?

[loystock]

Both cars are reliable provided previous owner(s) did not abuse them. It's more of a buyer preference. The O2 sensors typically fail beyond 100K miles.

Whichever you choose, make sure you make a thorough inspection of the body/paint, interior and engine compartment. Check all accessories (A/C, stereo, etc.) are working. Check all the fluids for signs of neglect. Have a Carfax report as a reference. Dealers usually have detailed record of maintenance history. Verify the SES/CEL (Service Engine Soon) comes on with Ignition ON and goes off once engine is running. (Test drive the car on city streets and highway and listen for abnormal noise, vibration and alignment issues. When safe, do a high-speed braking (>45MPH) to check for warped rotors. Try to see if they can replace the fluids (ATF, brake fluid, P/S and engine oil) as part of the deal.

[zz6549]

I've driven it, and it seemed perfect aside from a small rattle I hear when the car goes over bumps, or shifts from first to second. Brakes straight from high speeds, drives straight, and comes with relatively new tires. The dealer said it had a "lady driver", so I'm assuming it was driven soft.

So 2001 Maximas aren't notorious for breaking down? The review site I was reading had a lot of complaints about having to replace the MAF and catalytic converter.

[loystock]

The rattle may be due to failing suspension and/or engine mount. On cars equipped with electronic engine mount, failure of the actuator may 'fry' the ECM. A failing MAF may or may not generate a CEL. In most cases, cleaning the MAF sensor and connector will fix the problem. Otherwise, the MAF sensor has to be replaced due to internal problem (cold solder or failing board).

The catalytic converter, OEM part, may be expensive to replace and there are 3 of them for 00 Maxima and beyond - Banks 1 and 2 Pre-Cat and Main Cat. Problem with cat usually is associated with owners neglecting to replace a defective O2 sensor. With the O2 sensor out, the ECM causes the engine to run rich (poor mileage) and unburnt fuel may accumulate in the cat and even ignite, destroying it.

Again, it's more of a buyer preference and which one you are confident in owning.

[bmaxima02]

In my honest opinion, it depends on your driving habits. If you like speed. go for the 2003 model but if you are an average driver, buy the 2001 which has less horsepower than the 2003 model. In terms of sensor problems, it is uncertain to tell if the 2003 model will give you problems. I have an 02 GLE model and I currently have an 02 sensor problem so either one could potentially be problematic. If you ever purchase one, my advice is ALWAYS use Synthetic oil change and premium gas as this will help your engine life. But honestly, dont care about the mileage. Good luck.

[zz6549]

I went and drove the 2003. There was a really loud grinding noise coming from the right wheel whenever I turned, so I'm assuming it's a bad CV joint. I also noticed that it really wasn't a lot faster than the 2001. Compared to driving an 2005 Altima 3.5 (which apparently has 15 less horsepower) the 2003 Maxima felt sluggish. I'm not sure if the extra 200 pounds are making a difference, or if there was something wrong with the car. Has anyone else ever compared the two?

And about those electronic engine mounts... that sounds like a very expensive problem. I'm sure it's a rare occurrence, but is there anything that can be done to reduce the chances of that happening?

[loystock]

Aside from the CV joint, there could be other problems that you haven't found yet. A CV joint replacement may cost you $300, more or less.

As for the electronic engine mounts, other members have disabled them (disconnected the connector to the actuator) and didn't feel the difference..

[zz6549]

That's what I'm thinking. If someone let their CV joint get that bad, they probably didn't take too good care of the rest of car.

I checked the FSM (very nice resource btw), and saw that the engine mount only has two settings. "Soft" when the engine is idling, and "hard" when it's not. If that's all it does, it doesn't sound like it's worth the trouble it can cause.

At this point I'm probably going to go with the 2001. I'm bringing it into a Nissan dealer tomorrow and they're going to check it out.