2001 Nissan Pathfinder ECU

[glennm23]

My can had idle problem and then would not start (turned over nicely). I had it checked by reputable mechanic and he said diagnostic was ECU. Unfortunately, he said it was a dealer program fix and he could not do. I was advised to tow to Nissan Dealer. I feel this was a big mistake.

Dealer quoted me $1,300 for ECU, plus Idle piece for $300 and service for $350. I know that is pricey and I can get rebuilt, but I don't really mind. But, now they are saying crankshaft issues, with shreds of metal. They said they need 4-5 hrs of diagnostic for ECM and fuses that seem burnt and need to take entire dash off. Could be expensive wiring harness issues and we are looking at $5k-$6k worth of work.

This has gone sideways and I wonder if this makes sense to anyone. I'm afraid that this is what gives dealers a bad rep. Should I tow to another or are there other places that can do this work. I'm in Boulder/Denver, CO area. Thanks

[PathyPop]

$5-6k would buy you about the nicest low miles QX4 in my state (CA). I don't like dealers much and hate throwing good money after bad. If you have shreds of metal along with all the other stuff, it's just a matter of time. At the most I'd try an ebay ECU plus the IACV for a couple/three hundred+programming and see how the engine holds up.

[Rockwood]

There is an auto repair show on am 560 on the weekends, and several shops belong to a group that contribute to the show. They are good quality shops. Give the closest one a call and tell them the story. I think they would look at the vehicle and give you a good independent opinion:

http://www.drive-radio.com/member-shops/

A used engine may be a good option if there is no wiring damage. But they will discuss all that with you I'm sure.

Post back and tell us the outcome!

[Buzzman]

What a load of crap from the dealer.
Do not spend $1,300 on a new ECM.
Either see if you can pick one up at a junk yard, or send yours out for repair to a place like cicuitboardmedics:
https://circuitboardmedics.com/nissan-ecm-repairs/

A bad IACV will take out the ECM. There are tons of threads on here with advice on how to fix the problem. Do a search.

As for taking apart the dash??? I mean, really? What a con game.
Take your truck out of there and tow it home, or at least back to your mechanic, and show him this forum.
It's not difficult to fix. I did it myself a few years ago in my driveway, and I'm no techy.

[glennm23]

Thanks all for encouragement and direction, I just needed some ideas and support. Appreciated.

[glennm23]

PCM:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PROGRAMMED-KEY ... -1&vxp=mtr

IACV:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Idle-Air-C ... ai&vxp=mtr

Do these look right for what I need? I can then read and do myself or pay a few hundred for someone to do for me? Sound good?

Definitely fried something with a small amount of smoke and electrical smell. Came from under dash behind steering wheel.

[Rockwood]

It is easier to just send in your own ECU for repair. That way you do not have to mess with a new ignition switch, etc. Like these people:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/REPAIR-SERVICE ... zG&vxp=mtr

I used a place called myairbags.com and they did well. You should get a lifetime warranty on the fix.

The idle valve is correct, but I would suggest getting a Hitachi - they make the OEM IACV. Most of the others are non-branded parts from China.

After you replace the parts, check all your fuses, then start the truck. You then need to do an idle relearn procedure. You can find the procedure in threads here by doing a search.

Do take the time to look closely at the wiring harness at the ECU and check for any signs of burned wiring, altho I would say that usually does not happen. Also check the wiring at the IACV when you replace it.

What was the shreds of metal thing all about? Was the engine running ok before the ECU bit the dust?

[Rockwood]

Oh, meant to say the smell was the ECU frying up. That is typical.

Here is a link to the service manuals for the truck. The EL section is for electrical, EC is for engine controls. EC page 21 and 22 show parts locations. The ECU is under the dash to the right of the steering column. You will be looking at EC mostly.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/QX4/2001.5_QX4/

[glennm23]

Thanks Rockwood (and others). Definitely the input I needed. Metal shavings was a passing comment in a VM from dealer. No real details or follow up on that. Car was running great before idle issues and ultimately not starting. They said they "have seen this before and it is generally an expensive fix. Likely need to check for burnt harness and take entire dash off with 5+ hours of diagnostic." That's when I knew I was in the wrong hands.

Honestly, it is a secondary care with sentimental value from my twin brother that recently passed. I don't need a peak running vehicle. Just something to drive around when I miss him. Just want to see if I can get it rolling again.