2001 Infiniti Q45 runs fine for 10-15 seconds then shuts off.

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BigBodyQ
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:47 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti Q45
2001 Infiniti Q45t

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I have a 2001 Q45 that I’ve been having a lot of problems with lately. Started the car one day and it wouldn’t rev past 1500 rpm or pull a hill it was stuck in limp mode. I took it to a mechanic that also couldn’t find out the problem but when I went to pick the car up I wouldn’t even stay running for more than 5 seconds after starting then would slowly bogg out and die. I changed the coils, crank pos sensor, cam pos sensor, maf sensor, coolant temp sensor, knock sensors, spark plugs... After changing maf cam pos sensor it now runs really good for 10-15 seconds before it idles down and dies (no misfires). But once you give it throttle it will immediately kill the engine. The only code I’m getting is a P1320. I’m at my wits end with this car. Any help?


BigBodyQ
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:47 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti Q45
2001 Infiniti Q45t

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BigBodyQ wrote:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 10:56 pm
I have a 2001 Q45 that I’ve been having a lot of problems with lately. Started the car one day and it wouldn’t rev past 1500 rpm or pull a hill it was stuck in limp mode. I took it to a mechanic that also couldn’t find out the problem but when I went to pick the car up I wouldn’t even stay running for more than 5 seconds after starting then would slowly bogg out and die. I changed the coils, crank pos sensor, cam pos sensor, maf sensor, coolant temp sensor, knock sensors, spark plugs... After changing maf cam pos sensor it now runs really good for 10-15 seconds before it idles down and dies (no misfires). But once you give it throttle it will immediately kill the engine. The only code I’m getting is a P1320. I’m at my wits end with this car. Any help?

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VStar650CL
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Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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P1320 indicates one or more of the coils has a fault. Given the behavior, I'd say it's likely one of them has a near-short circuit in the power FET and kills the 12V supply after it runs a bit. The ECM sees the overload and kills it. I'd try unplugging the coils one at a time and see if one of them lets the car keep running. If not, you may have a wiring issue in the coil supply circuit.

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VStar650CL
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Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Oops, didn't see that you already changed the coils out. Most likely it's wiring. The ECM has a "current monitor" on the coil supply and declares a fault if it sees a coil drawing too much or too little juice. I didn't see anything about fuel, have you checked the fuel pressure? To eliminate or implicate that, have an assistant spray Brakleen or something combustible down the intake when you start it and see if it continues running as long as the spray is applied.

BigBodyQ
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:47 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti Q45
2001 Infiniti Q45t

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VStar650CL wrote:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 11:52 pm
Oops, didn't see that you already changed the coils out. Most likely it's wiring. The ECM has a "current monitor" on the coil supply and declares a fault if it sees a coil drawing too much or too little juice. I didn't see anything about fuel, have you checked the fuel pressure? To eliminate or implicate that, have an assistant spray Brakleen or something combustible down the intake when you start it and see if it continues running as long as the spray is applied.
We did try using ether in the intake and it kept running until you stopped spraying it. I forgot to mention it has a new fuel pump and filter on it. We took the two fuel lines off and it was getting fuel up to the rail to start it. After it fires and runs and shuts off the next time it gets harder to start back up.

BigBodyQ
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:47 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti Q45
2001 Infiniti Q45t

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VStar650CL wrote:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 11:52 pm
Oops, didn't see that you already changed the coils out. Most likely it's wiring. The ECM has a "current monitor" on the coil supply and declares a fault if it sees a coil drawing too much or too little juice. I didn't see anything about fuel, have you checked the fuel pressure? To eliminate or implicate that, have an assistant spray Brakleen or something combustible down the intake when you start it and see if it continues running as long as the spray is applied.
Also I had a mechanic look at it and he tested the fuel pressure. He said it tested good. Another thing is if I try to start it up 3-4 times in a row the battery gets weak. The battery was tested when charged and it tested good. My guess is there is a short.

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VStar650CL
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Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Hey, if it runs on ether then ipso facto, there is a fuel delivery problem. One thing to check on any Nissan is the ground pin on the fuel pump connector. When pumps die they often draw excess current that ends up smoking the female ground pin in the harness. If you find five shiny pins and one black one, you've found your culprit. Most people just throw a pump in without inspecting the connector, which can be a big mistake. If the connector looks okay, see if there's good power and ground at the connector by putting a test light across the power and ground pins. Use a bulb-type lamp and not an LED, you're testing a power circuit so you need to use a test device that draws power. With the engine stopped, you should get a 1.5~2 second power pulse every time you cycle the ignition, and it should light as brightly as when the same lamp is placed across the battery. If the lamp is dim, suspect a wiring problem or crappy contacts inside the fuel pump relay. If there's no power at all but the fuse is good, suspect the relay.

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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PS - Make sure the new fuel filter isn't installed backwards, too. Most of them have a check valve.

BigBodyQ
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Oct 14, 2020 6:47 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti Q45
2001 Infiniti Q45t

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VStar650CL wrote:
Mon Jan 11, 2021 1:58 pm
PS - Make sure the new fuel filter isn't installed backwards, too. Most of them have a check valve.
I don’t believe the fuel rails have been installed backwards. After doing knock sensors the car ran and drove but it had a rough idle.

98_Q45
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Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:12 am

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BigBodyQ wrote:
Sun Jan 10, 2021 10:56 pm
I have a 2001 Q45 that I’ve been having a lot of problems with lately. Started the car one day and it wouldn’t rev past 1500 rpm or pull a hill it was stuck in limp mode. I took it to a mechanic that also couldn’t find out the problem but when I went to pick the car up I wouldn’t even stay running for more than 5 seconds after starting then would slowly bogg out and die. I changed the coils, crank pos sensor, cam pos sensor, maf sensor, coolant temp sensor, knock sensors, spark plugs... After changing maf cam pos sensor it now runs really good for 10-15 seconds before it idles down and dies (no misfires). But once you give it throttle it will immediately kill the engine. The only code I’m getting is a P1320. I’m at my wits end with this car. Any help?
I been there. Multiple times lol. Hell, I’m still there with this annoying airbag light lol. But most likely, it’s probably something very simple and obvious that’s in plain view (figuratively). The above suggestion by VStar sounds good, but I can also throw out..maybe fuel pump fuse? Did the fuel pump actually go out, or was it just part of the list?

A sent a fuel pump for a friend of mine’s Expedition, turns out it also had water in the tank. But in your case, have you checked the exhaust, make sure something or someone didn’t put something back there?


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