2001.5 Pathfinder Replacing shocks, springs, and struts...what am I missing?

[Leonard4]

Finally getting around to replacing the shocks and struts on my 2001.5 Pathfinder, had some serious sagging this last camping trip and it just feels bouncy. Below is what I have on order, and then a few questions about mounts and bolts.

This is what I have on order so far:
(2) KYB KG4163 Gas-a-Just Gas Shock (rear)
(1) Moog 81115 Coil Spring Set (rear)
(1) KYB 335033 Excel-G Gas Strut (Front Left)
(1) KYB 335032 Excel-G Gas Strut (Front Right)

In my cart:
(2) KYB SM5329 - Mount kit w/ Boot (Front)

I've read that KYB doesn't make the best strut mounting kits for the front, and people recommend Moog or Raybestos. I can't find a part number for the Raybestos and the few Moog reviews looked less than stellar. Any ideas on the mounting kits and does anyone have a part number for Moog front coil springs? I read a post where Towncivilian talked about replacing the bolts/nuts on the rear shocks, I think the PN# on that is 55080-41B00, is that the right one? I'm assuming I'll need 2 for each side, so a total of 4 of those bolts.

Thanks!

[yeldogt]

Used the KYB on one of my 02's -- the results are going to be firmer vs OE. There is really no other choice (KYB) vs going OE. Went with the OE mounts for the reasons you mention -- ordered the rear bolts at the same time. Can't comment on the Moog springs. The bolts on mine were frozen and the lowers cut off -- so having new hardware is a good idea. Make sure the struts have the mud shields included -- they were additional when I did mine.

The KYB's are fine for kicking around ... we still have one around and I'm going to install OE rear shocks because the fronts are fine ... only 100k on it.

[Leonard4]

Awesome, thanks for the post. Definitely sounds like I'm going in the right direction. Will double check that the ones I got have boots, if not I'll try to find some before I throw these on. Do you happen to remember the part number for the rear bolts?

[Leonard4]

Did the rear end lastnight, wasn't too bad. One weirdness was I had an 18MM nut on the top rear passenger shock bolt, and a 17MM on the driver side. Almost stripped that guy out!

Definitely was easier than expected. Jacked up the side frame with a floor jack where the lower trailing arm meets the frame, raised the rear axle with the tire off with a bottle jack and disconnected the control linkage (14MM bolt + 14MM socket), put my spring compressors on the spring at this point, broke the shocks loose (21MM bottom bolt), 21MM bolt on top with 17MM (driver side) and 18mm Nuts (passenger side), pulled them out, lowered the axle down and and wiggled the spring out, install was basically the reverse of that. Didn't have to disconnect anything else.

I did notice a considerable amount of shine where the bump stops had been hitting the bottom of the control arm, and they were split in half. This was the one part I did not account for so I did not replace them at this time. I will more than likely go back and do that next time I swap out my rear brakes in a few months.

Immediately noticed a lot less rear end leaning in turns, more solid, and just felt better. Also gained 1 1/2" of lift over the old setup, so not sure if that was the old shocks and springs being dead but was surprised to see that much of a change (Just hit 170k miles).

[AU Qx4]

Hey Leonard,
I have a june 01 QX4 that I did the same KYB gas struts and shocks but I re used the old springs. Did it a few years ago with about 80,000 mi on her. She now has 155k and still stands tall but I added a Nissan trailer hitch I found in a junk yard off of a 4WD model. When I load her with a cargo rack or bike rack or trailer she sags a little so I will be adding an air lift this weekend and will be pulling off those bump stops you spoke about. (required). After re doing all the trailing arms she doesn't sway but I hear the air lift adds even more stability and keeps her level under load... I keep ya posted.

Ps Cant believe you went 170k on original struts and shocks...

[Leonard4]

Ps Cant believe you went 170k on original struts and shocks...

Me neither, I'm assuming they were stock since I bought it at 86k miles. So far everythings working out well, going to try to load it up tonight and see how she sags now. Got a week long camping trip so looking at loading the top with a carrier and was hoping I could put a cargo setup on the hitch and not have it sag too badly. May have to go the airbag route like you are. Report back on how that works if you have time. Thanks!

[hotdawwgman]

Yeah let us know. I just received all of the same parts except the rear shocks. I got the regular KYB Excel-G Shocks, not the Gas-a-just

[Leonard4]

Just finished the driver side strut/spring replacement lastnight (2hrs), I had done the passenger side on sunday (6hrs). Grossly underestimated the amount of time and effort it would take using those spring compressors. I ended up getting an air wrench for the drivers side, which is why it took way less time, plus I knew what to do this time around. I did run into an issue with the new KYB Excel-G struts, one of the spots to screw in the brake line wasn't a threaded hole, it was a pressure fit spot now to squeeze the hose into. Also the control arm bushing that mounted up high was frozen on both struts, had to use a hex key with a box end wrench with 1/4 turns to break that out.

Old struts were 100% failed, I could compress them with 1 finger, and when I lifted it up it would drop back down itself with no pressure till about half way. New springs were Moog springs, larger springs, but shorter overall, also did not have a flat top on the coil like the stock springs had. Assembly and installation wasn't bad, put it back together the way it came apart for the most part. There was what seemed to be a paper gasket on the top of the strut mount that was inbetween it and the inside of the wheelwell frame, it was brittle and disintegrated as I took it off, I did not have a replacement so hopefully I don't get any squeaking. I jacked up the side with a floor jack, then a jackstand under the pivot point on the control arm. I used a 12t bottle jack to raise and lower the bottom of the rotor to slide the strut bolts out and get that control arm nut off. The large strut bolts were rusted to hell and back, would advise a good penetrating oil soak for at least a half hour, I still had to use a sledge and a breaker bar to get mine loose.

Ride impressions, feels like night and day, no more bouncing, almost no rebound on bumps and stopping and accelerating don't nose dive the front end now.

[hotdawwgman]

Thanks for sharing! I am replacing my suspension this coming week!