2000 q45 Anniv. Ed. Door Lock Problem (just one)

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bjincali
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:17 am
Car: 2000 Q45 Anniversary Edition

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My driver side rear door no longer locks or unlocks. I did force the latch to unlocked, but now it feels like the lever will break if I try to force it back locked. All other doors work fine. Also, when I lock the car with my key fob... the car no longer honks to acknowledge locking. Not sure if that's related, but they started at the same time. So, there's that. Any idea what this is about? I'm trying to see if there is something I can do before I pay someone to fix it. Or at least have some knowledge, before I take it somewhere before they try to replace the whole damn door. LOLOLOL. Thanks for any help...


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VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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The doors on the '00 Q45 have separate actuators and "Door Controllers" inside the doors. The actuators are simple DC motors. It sounds like your lock is jammed mechanically, but the only way to be certain is to pop the door panel and apply 12V to the actuator pins to see if it operates. On an '00 the wires will be White for Lock and Yellow for Unlock. "Lock" and "Unlock" refer to which wire is positive. I.e, putting 12V on WHT and ground on YEL should make the door lock. Note that you shouldn't apply power with the Door Controller hooked up, take the connector loose at the Controller and apply power with a jump box. If the actuator makes noise but doesn't do anything, chances are your lock is worn out. If the actuator works correctly on external power then the Controller is either faulty or has no power. Power comes into the Controller on Yellow/Black and ground is on Black. Check across those pins with a test light, that will validate both power and ground. If it doesn't light, check from YEL/BLK to a chassis ground. If that lights, the ground wire is bad, if not the power wire is bad. If it does prove to be bad wires, the most likely spot is the flex connection where the door wires travel from the body to the door.

macgiver
Posts: 1612
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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Tip : De-Oxit , better yet De-Oxit Gold ($ 26/ can) . A carryover from my electronics repair , this stuff ROCKS big-time for cleaning/conditioning connectors , contacts , switches , preserves exposed wire conductors . It's virtually guaranteed to give you 99% positive connection , like from the factory . Any time I work on elctrical , I detach and spray inside connectors ,plug replug 3-times , thus virtually eliminating questionable connectors , takes a lot of the mystery out of intermittant problems after it's reassembled !! Like you don't want to tear into a door , you know that PITA job , and still have doubts / problems only to tear into it again . I'll even unplug connectors (batt disconnected) in the entire area I'm working and spray this stuff . Godsend in "rust-belt".

Cars more and more have advanced / critical & sensitive electrical systems and connections can and will hide or mask your troubleshooting . Example = BMW trunklight , I pulled bulb - it ohmed 'good' & socket had good ground and 12v test-light good too, shot some De-Oxit on contacts of bulb & socket , wiped and it now lights . That bulb probly sat in that 2006 for the whole 16 years UNDISTURBED and had developed some buildup of poor connection , also a fuse in same car , 5A , had poor connection , I blasted fuse and holder - then it flowed ( I did put new fuse later though ). No SH#$%TT De-Oxit kicks AZZZZ.


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