2000 Pathfinder LE NO START

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
FubarGrn
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 6:09 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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Hello all, coming here because I have exhausted the internet trying to diagnose this problem.

My daughter's 2000 Pathfinder LE has broken down, and is defying everything I know about vehicles.

It is getting spark, and spraying ether into the throttle body provided no results.

We have checked the Fuel pump relay and replaced the Fuel pump (the sending unit was faulty anyway because the fuel gauge was inop). We have replaced the Crank Sensor and that did not work either. We have an OBDII code scanner and it is reading no codes now, but the day it broke down it read an error code for the Knock Sensor (which wouldn't cause it to not start from what I've read). We have ensured that the Fuel pump relay is working, and all fuses are good.

We are currently leaning towards faulty ECM (but the code scanner still connects and reads various things, just shows no stored codes).
The most common issues for this engine/model appears to be a faulty distributor, but hers gives out spark, and the rotor turns properly. I do not have any idea how to check to see if the injectors are working, I usually only perform minor repairs. I really don't want to have to tear half of the motor apart.

I'm literally at my wit's end with this truck, lol.


MisterH
Posts: 305
Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 5:04 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti QX4

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Actually, it is still possible you have a bad distributor. The problem often lies with the camshaft position sensor. The camshaft sensor sends engine speed and piston position data to the ECM and It is built into the distributor so repair means distributor replacement. Older ones go bad and you will get spark but no ignition and they'll sometimes fail without triggering a CEL. There are tests that can be run to verify this diagnosis but I think it does require a scope to do correctly. Perhaps one of the other members will chime in and elaborate on testing for it. I know it's been discussed previously.

FubarGrn
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 6:09 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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So the actual sensor in the distributor can go bad, and not send the proper signal to the ECM, but the distributor can still function mechanically? The rotor is turning, and spark is being put out very strong.

Rockwood
Posts: 192
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:47 pm
Car: 2002 QX4

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The cam position sensor is what the ECM uses to fire the fuel injectors at the right time. So it can cause a no fuel situation if it is bad.

But reading your comments there is one thing that is odd. If you have good spark and you squirt starting fluid in the intake, you will get the engine to kick over for a short time. But you got nothing.

I think you could have a broken timing belt - google how to tell if your timing belt is broken and maybe watch a video or two on youtube. That would explain why starting fluid isn't working. My guess - the ECM should be okay since it is firing the plugs and there are no codes for a bad ECM.

FubarGrn
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 6:09 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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IF the timing belt is broken, wouldn't the rotor in the distributor fail to spin? Because the rotor spins just fine. With the cap off, I can turn it over, and the rotor spins effectively, and correctly without any skips or strange movement. The spark plug wires are transmitting the voltage to the plugs, as verified by pulling them one by one and attaching a spark plug to the wire and holding it near metal. Everything I've read states that if the timing belt breaks (or strips some teeth) the rotor will fail to spin, or in the case of missing teeth, will have pauses, or "skips" in it's movement.

Rockwood
Posts: 192
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:47 pm
Car: 2002 QX4

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Yep, and you did say the rotor was turning - I missed that.

If you have good spark and you provide "fuel" by giving it some starting fluid, you should get the truck to run for a short period. Odd that you are getting nothing.

Only thing I can think to check is to make sure the security light is flashing normally with the key in the off position, and that it goes out when you turn the key to the on position before you try to start it.

Blindaviator
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2017 8:49 pm
Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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Might try a noid light to check the fuel injectors to make sure they are firing as well.

But as Rockwood said even if they are not firing the engine should start a least a little with starting fluid. If the spark plugs are firing but it doesn't start with starting fluid the only thing it can be is the plugs are firing at the wrong time. The plugs are firing when it is on the exhaust stroke for instance.
Timing belt, cam position sensor, Etc is throwing it out of time.

FubarGrn
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 6:09 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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Rockwood wrote:Yep, and you did say the rotor was turning - I missed that.

If you have good spark and you provide "fuel" by giving it some starting fluid, you should get the truck to run for a short period. Odd that you are getting nothing.

Only thing I can think to check is to make sure the security light is flashing normally with the key in the off position, and that it goes out when you turn the key to the on position before you try to start it.

Security light flashes fine when the key is off, and turns off when trying to crank.

Does anyone know if the timing belt can be broken and the rotor in the distributor will still turn? I just replaced the Distributor, cap and rotor and I still cannot get it to start. While cranking, it is loping pretty damn hard. I mean the whole truck really rocks, and it sounds really labored. The battery is pretty much toast, so I have it hooked to jumper cables when I'm trying to start it at this point.

FubarGrn
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 6:09 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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I want to add in some background info on what precisely happened to this pathy.

This is my daughter's truck, and she was heading to pick her husband up from work one morning and on the way there it started acting sluggish, like it had no power. She kept her foot on the gas for the remaining mile or so to his work, and as soon as she pulled into the parking lot and let off the gas, it died then and there.

so far, I have:

Replaced the Fuel pump, Fuel Filter, and Fuel sending unit
Replaced the Distributor, Cap, and Rotor (Wires and plugs are giving me issues because there is so much junk down in the holes, I can't even get a socket on the plugs)
Replaced Crankshaft position sensor

It will turn over just fine, however it does sound labored and "hoppy". It is puffing air out of the tailpipe as it turns over. There is plenty of spark getting to each plug, a

This is turning into an emergency situation for us pretty fast.

MisterH
Posts: 305
Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 5:04 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti QX4

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Oh man, that's really frustrating I'm sure. Given you've replaced the distributor AND the CPS, you've eliminated two high probability electronic sensors that produced the symptoms you described. My last suggestion is to seek out a highly experienced Nissan mechanic and have a professional do the diagnosis. That person if equipped with Nissan consult can do a better job pinpointing the source of the problem. At this point you've already spent a fair amount of money replacing things that didn't help. You need to consider how much more you are willing to spend replacing parts based on free, long-distance advice from (mostly) amateurs.

Rockwood
Posts: 192
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2016 6:47 pm
Car: 2002 QX4

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Your description actually sounds like you might be a tooth or two off on the distributor. Don't know if that is the problem, but it would explain the no start.

Can you get ahold of a timing light? Check and see if you are in time - should be 10 to 15 degrees before tdc I think.

FubarGrn
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat May 06, 2017 6:09 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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Question:

If the injectors are putting out fuel, wouldn't I be smelling a hint of unburned gasoline out of the tailpipe while turning it over (assuming the spark wasn't getting to some of the cylinders)?

When the fuel pump was replaced, is there some kind of safety reset switch (like as if you ran out of gas), did the lines need to be bled, or does that really matter since any "air" in the lines would be forced out during the priming/startup sequence?

Still no one giving me one critical answer. Can the timing belt be broken if the rotor still spins while turning over?

I will be taking this thing to a local garage that specializes in foreign vehicles. It's going to cost a metric ton of money, however. I would really like to try a couple of more things before I hand it over to them for repair.

Blindaviator
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2017 8:49 pm
Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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I recently had the intake off mine to replace the water control valve which also entailed draining / removing the injectors. After reassembly it was a few extra cranks for it to start and it ran poorly the first 30 seconds or so. The fuel pump will quickly push the air from the system.

As Rockwood said It is possible for the timing belt to be bad and it still turn the cams. If the belt is missing a few teeth it could have slipped on one or both cam sprockets throwing it out of timing.

If it were me I would set the timing to TDC according to the crankshaft pulley and then check where the distributor rotor is. That will tell you if the distributor and / or cam shaft is out of timing. (make sure it is truly TDC of the compression stroke as the crankshaft will have 2 full revolutions for each cylinder cycle)... If you can easily see the cam sprockets (I don't know the 3.3 engines at all) that will also tell you if the timing is correct when it is at TDC. See if the timing marks on the cam sprockets are lined up with the timing marks.
Between all those you can tell if something is wrong with the timing and will give you a specific direction for the mechanic.

A little more info on the timing marks:
http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ni ... 3f80376acd

MisterH
Posts: 305
Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 5:04 pm
Car: 1999 Infiniti QX4

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In answer to your question, if the timing belt is indeed broken, then the rotor will not turn. I really believe an experienced Nissan mechanic could give you an accurate diagnosis of the issue within an hour. The situation you are experiencing is the perfect example of why it would be preferable to get someone with specific brand and model experience.

silvermullet
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu May 28, 2009 9:26 pm
Car: 1991 z32 300zx Twin Turbo

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hello all,

sorry to revive old thread but im having a similar situation with my pathfinder. wondering what came about this @FubarGrn.

current situation:

cranks but no start. it happened last monday night. towed it back home. between last monday and this past sunday, no start, just cranking.

initially thought battery. since it is possible for an older battery to not put out sufficient CCA's to start the car in very cold temps, i bought a heavy duty jump starter. didnt work. Im smelling fuel after cranking and hearing the fuel pump prime before cranking. so initial thoughts are its getting fuel. opened up distributor cap and rotor. they werent in terrible shape, but changed them out anyway. checked spark using an inline spark tester between cap and spark plug. it lit up so there is spark. now im sure it was a freak thing, but when i setup every to test spark with the tester yesterday, it started. actually drove it around the block but it stalled out as i was pulling into the driveway. back to crank, no start status. so... getting back to the battery... i decided for sh*ts and giggles to have it tested. turns out it was bad and not putting out enough CCA's on its own. So i replaced it today. Nothing. also.. though im smelling fuel and fuel pump sounds normal, in the remote case that the fuel is not getting into the engine properly, i sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and tried to fire her up. Nothing.

so doing my due diligence,

1) its in the back of my mind that it could be a bad distributor... all my research has been pointing me to 'if its getting spark, then the distributor is probably fine' but because of that sensor in there, i realize it could still be bad. so would i still get spark even though the sensor is bad?
2) I've read on here as well as other places that if the timing belt skips a tooth and timing is off, it can result in crank, no start. but it sounded fine and seemed fine when it did start up yesterday and drove it briefly. if timing was off when it initially died, wouldnt it not start up at all?

im going nuts here.

thanks in advance for any help!


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