2000 Infiniti I30 Starting Problem

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d4nt3
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:42 pm
Car: 00 infiniti i30

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Hi guys,

I have a problem with my I30. I need to push the gas pedal for a couple of seconds when I start the car first time in the day otherwise engine stops, but once it starts to run never stops. If I leave the car parked for too long and let the engine cool again I need to push it again. This problem happened after my mechanic washed the engine after he replaced it. Now the service engine soon indicator is lit and since my mechanic's diagnose computer is not a capable one we couldn't understand what's wrong. I didn't want to bring it to Infiniti for diagnose and pay $100 before getting your opinions. Thanks in advance


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SteveTheTech
Posts: 3751
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2008 3:20 pm
Car: 15 Nissan Sentra SR
12 Infiniti G37x Coupe
-Formerly-
05 Mazda 6 L3 Sport
95 Infiniti J30
94 Nissan D22
Location: Chantilly, Va

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Unfortunately since the engine has been removed and replaced all bets are off as to what the route cause could be.

First thing I would do is unplug the MAF and try to start the car.
If that doesn't change anything you are most likely going to need someone with a capable scanner to check your car out.

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tigersharkdude
Posts: 2636
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2007 7:14 am
Car: 1999 Nissan Maxima
Location: Nashville, TN

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first-take it to a parts store and get the codes read

Second- Ive said it a lot here BUT my bet is the fuel pressure regulator

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loystock
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Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2003 9:12 pm
Car: 10 Honda Pilot
97 Infiniti Q45
03 Infiniti Q45
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04 G35 & 99 I30-RIP
Location: San Jose, CA

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I agree with 'tiger' - take it to Autozone and the likes for a free scan and get a printout of the trouble code.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator is supposed to hold fuel for the engine when the car is shut down. If it is leaking, fuel then goes back to the tank. If you have black smoke coming from the exhaust, fuel injectors may be leaking. There is also a possibility of a weak/failing fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. You need to hook up (T-fitting)) a fuel pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel rail then check fuel delivery pressure - 34 PSI with engine running (vacuum ON) and 43 PSI with Ignition ON but engine OFF, limited to 5 seconds (or engine running, vacuum OFF).

CAUTION: Ensure fuel line is empty before disconnecting the line - FIRE HAZARD. With the engine running, pull the Fuel Pump fuse and wait until the engine dies. Crank at least once more to ensure line is empty. Re-install the fuse.

Turn Ignition ON, do not start engine. The fuel pump should run with pressure of 43 PSI then shut down after 5 seconds. If delivery pressure is low, problem is with fuel pump and/or filter. If delivery pressure is normal,you have to watch the 'leakdown.' When the fuel pump shuts down, the fuel pressure should remain steady for several seconds and then gradually go down (@ 20 PSI, but never 0). If the pressure immediately drops down, problem could be with Fuel Pump Check Valve, leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator or leaking Fuel Injector.

To isolate, with the pump running, pinch the line between fuel filter and pressure gauge. If the fuel pressure drops, check valve is good and the problem is with the Fuel Pressure Regulator or Fuel Rail/Injectors. Now you have to further isolate problem - regulator or fuel rail/injector. With the pump running, pinch the BOTH lines before the pressure gauge and the fuel return line. If fuel pressure is steady, problem with regulator; otherwise check fuel rail/injectors.

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SteveTheTech
Posts: 3751
Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2008 3:20 pm
Car: 15 Nissan Sentra SR
12 Infiniti G37x Coupe
-Formerly-
05 Mazda 6 L3 Sport
95 Infiniti J30
94 Nissan D22
Location: Chantilly, Va

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Great stuff fellas :dblthumb:

Keep in mind one of the things the OP said was the engine was out...

Even if the FPR is gone there is nothing saying there are not several things working to make this car a mess.

coo8
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:09 pm
Car: I30

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I have similar problem and replacing the MAF took care it the following symptoms:
1. Rough Idle, sometime need to press on gas to keep it alive.
2. Poor acceleration and choke when RPM above 2000.
3. SES + TCS + SLIPP lights are on but no OBD2 code.
4. Engine diagnostic on pin #9 code=87.

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loystock
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Posts: 2072
Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2003 9:12 pm
Car: 10 Honda Pilot
97 Infiniti Q45
03 Infiniti Q45
97 Infiniti I30
06 Infiniti M35 Sports
04 G35 & 99 I30-RIP
Location: San Jose, CA

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coo8 wrote:I have similar problem and replacing the MAF took care it the following symptoms:
1. Rough Idle, sometime need to press on gas to keep it alive.
2. Poor acceleration and choke when RPM above 2000.
3. SES + TCS + SLIPP lights are on but no OBD2 code.
4. Engine diagnostic on pin #9 code=87.

You have an electrical issue (MAF sensor) while the OP probably has fuel system problem. It's better to look into trouble code(s) first before replacing components.

jegramat
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2011 7:28 pm
Car: 2000 Infiniti I30

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Helle Dent, I just wanted to find out if you finally discovered what the problem was with your Infiniti. I have the same Infiniti and exactly the same problem and have been trying to find an accurate diagnosis on it. I don't want to go to Infiniti and pay that much money. Please let me know. You can even e-mail me at jegramat at yahoo dot fr. I would really be pleased.

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loystock
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Car: 10 Honda Pilot
97 Infiniti Q45
03 Infiniti Q45
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06 Infiniti M35 Sports
04 G35 & 99 I30-RIP
Location: San Jose, CA

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Welcome to NICO.

You may have the same symptoms but the root cause may be different. If you have CEL, take it to Autozone and the likes and get a printout of the trouble code(s). You can also read the responses in this thread to isolate the problem.

BTW, I edited the title of the thread from "Starter Problem" to "Starting Problem" since starter is not an issue here.


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