Welcome to NICO! Are you planning to DIY? I recently had the problem with my 99 model (same part # as the 2000 model) due to a noisy clutch bearing. I noticed on the AdvanceAuto web site that the part numbers for the 2000 and 99 model are the same -- so I believe a clutch from a compressor for a 4th gen VQ30DE will work on a 2000 model. Just check the part numbers for a 96-2000 I30 clutch to verify. Also, I see Advance Auto has new clutches available for $164.99 using the HUGE50 discount code - but that seems like a lot of money for just a clutch when you can get a rebuilt compressor and clutch for roughly $50 more or pick up one from a salvage yard for $70 or less.
To resolve my clutch problem, I thought I would try picking up a clutch from a salvage yard. I quickly found removing the clutch in the yard required too many tools to attempt outside of my garage so I found a wrecked 96 model I30 with a good compressor clutch combination for about $70 dollars. I planned to just replace the compressor clutch and all.
Unfortunately, after getting the compressor home and removing the old compressor, I found the compressor hose ports are different sizes between the 96 and 99 models. However, the clutches appeared to be the same. So I removed the clutch assembly from the 96 model and moved it to the 99 model compressor and it worked great. The OEM compressor with 171,000 miles along with the salvage yard clutch runs quiet and it will freeze you out of the car on a 95 degree day with 90 percent humidity on short order. Before I rejuvenated the AC system, the compressor was a bit noisy and it appeared to be laboring when it was running. Now I feel like I saved replacing the compressor and AC system by the steps I followed below.
Here's some tips that contributed to my success.
1) When I removed the compressor to change the clutch, I also removed and discarded the old dryer.
2) I used a can of Interdynamics AC system flush to flush out the system. I used 1/2 of the can on the condenser side and the other 1/2 on the evaporator side with compressed air to blow out the flush and any contaminates that may have accumulated in the system over the years. The flush appears to be a common parts store item below.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0050
3) I changed the oil on the old OEM compressor. I used PAG100 oil (only in the recommended amount) that I picked up from the same parts store. I could see the old oil needed a change when I drained it from the old compressor.
4) I changed all o-rings. I used a package of assorted metric o-rings (the green ones) that I picked up from the same parts store.
5) I installed the new dryer that I purchased from the same parts store. Reluctantly, I had to reuse the original dryer o-rings because of the angle required for installation would not allow me to position new o-rings. However, the original o-rings worked without leaking so I consider my self luck on that one.
6) I used my vacuum pump to evacuate the system before recharging.
7) I used a pair of needle nose pliers to jumper the AC relay to start the compressor so it would pickup the new R134 refrigerant.
8) I used the following refrigerant to refill the system.
Flushing the system, replacing the dryer, the clutch, and changing the compressor oil seems to have produced a quiet running AC system that will now freeze your socks off..
You may want to search Youtube for some VQ30DE compressor videos about removing the AC compressor if you plan to DIY.
WARNING - The following video got me into some trouble. 1) The clutch bolt does not need to be cut for removal - just use a correct sized socket or box end wrench to remove the old bolt. 2) I had to use a puller to remove the old pulley as the shaft splines were rusted. Sorry its just not as easy a shown in the video below.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7MWWgLIFGQ[/youtube]