20+HP gain for your G50
-
heywier427
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:45 pm
- Car: 91 Q45
- Location: CT
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: 20+HP gain for your G50 (heywier427)
So brian, you think this mod will net LESS horsepower, and result in more wear and things like that?
-
BlackBirdVQ
- Posts: 314
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:17 pm
- Car: 93 G20, 94 Q45, 00 Altima, 01 Maxima- quite a few
Re: 20+HP gain for your G50 (Q45tech)
Tech,
I compared the pulleys I send out to the ones I have on my Q and they looked identical down to the drilled out spots on the back of the crank pulley.
I hope you didn't assume I was talking bout 400 WHEEL HP here, I was nearly talking bout making 400 CRANK HP.
To me CRANK HP numbers do not mean anything as I do not have a engine dyno to dyno my VQ and VH on. I dyno on a DynoJet 248c which is pretty much industry standard for measuring wheel HP. I do TUNE on a Mustang dyno which is able to simulate load on a engine, letting me tune my A/F and timing maps for different situations.
I doubt Nissan would go to such extreme measures to balance each crankshaft and the pulley. Unless they had some kinda dedicated team of engine builders like AMG does for their engines.... I find it hard to belive Nissan would go to that nuts on this engine. Like I said both of my crank pulleys looked indentical.....
I compared the pulleys I send out to the ones I have on my Q and they looked identical down to the drilled out spots on the back of the crank pulley.
I hope you didn't assume I was talking bout 400 WHEEL HP here, I was nearly talking bout making 400 CRANK HP.
To me CRANK HP numbers do not mean anything as I do not have a engine dyno to dyno my VQ and VH on. I dyno on a DynoJet 248c which is pretty much industry standard for measuring wheel HP. I do TUNE on a Mustang dyno which is able to simulate load on a engine, letting me tune my A/F and timing maps for different situations.
I doubt Nissan would go to such extreme measures to balance each crankshaft and the pulley. Unless they had some kinda dedicated team of engine builders like AMG does for their engines.... I find it hard to belive Nissan would go to that nuts on this engine. Like I said both of my crank pulleys looked indentical.....
-
Flagship-Q
- Posts: 306
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:59 pm
- Car: 1992 Infiniti Q45
Re: 20+HP gain for your G50 (BlackBirdVQ)
I would be interested to feel the difference in the RPM spin up. I already removed my stock mechanical fan and can feel it "winde" up faster now. I could believe that HP would be gained with fan removal and pulley combo. I don't know for sure (someone could chime in) what the weight of that stock fan/clutch is, but it's fairly heavy. This weight removed along with cranshaft pulley weight reduced would be significant.
-
RobertsnewQ
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:56 am
You guys know that tech's right, right?
Lighter pullies (with the same diameter as stock) CANNOT make more horsepower (it's a physical impossibility).
They can make the engine accelerate faster, which on an inertial dyno (for example Dynojet) CAN show up as a horsepower increase.
It's because of the way those dynos work, not because you've added any power.
However, they do increase throttle response, and CAN increase acceleration (since more engine power goes into accelerating the car, not the pullies).
Not to be a nay-sayer, but also the VH also has a very heavy rotating mass (eight pistons, rods and a massive crank). The pulley is only a small percentage of the total, and is mounted close to the center of the crank. Both things mean that it probably won't give you the effect you think it does.
These look really nice, though, and I'm sure you'll notice some gain in acceleration.
Aftermarket companies sell an awful lot of aluminum pullies, so people like them.
Lighter pullies (with the same diameter as stock) CANNOT make more horsepower (it's a physical impossibility).
They can make the engine accelerate faster, which on an inertial dyno (for example Dynojet) CAN show up as a horsepower increase.
It's because of the way those dynos work, not because you've added any power.
However, they do increase throttle response, and CAN increase acceleration (since more engine power goes into accelerating the car, not the pullies).
Not to be a nay-sayer, but also the VH also has a very heavy rotating mass (eight pistons, rods and a massive crank). The pulley is only a small percentage of the total, and is mounted close to the center of the crank. Both things mean that it probably won't give you the effect you think it does.
These look really nice, though, and I'm sure you'll notice some gain in acceleration.
Aftermarket companies sell an awful lot of aluminum pullies, so people like them.
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: (RobertsnewQ)
I dont care if it adds actual horsepower, i just want it to make the car faster!
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Re: (RobertsnewQ)
The other problem is output obviously a pulley will show more improvement the less power the engine produces........why they are so popular on small displacement engines. The parasitic drags are a much higher % of the output.
Increasing the power of the car by 30 % would only add about 10% to the top speed of the car, as would reducing the aerodynamic drag by 10 %.
"On the flow bench thread it was mentioned that you could check to see how>inflated the underdrive pulley merchant's claims really are with some>torque sensors. Well, that tied in with a debate I'm currently having>with a friend of mine regarding the underdrive pulleys. So, what's>everyone's opinion? I have seen claims of 20 HP on a Buick V6 Turbo with>the crank pulley alone (pure snake oil, IMHO). I've also seen more>realistic claims of 5HP ... however, I think it's Duttweiller who says he>sees no difference on the dyno. Again, I don't know as that really>proves anything, since I would think it would be very difficult to>measure small HP gains on the dyno reliably. Bottom line, IMHO? Good>hype and hoopla, but very little real gains in a street/strip>combination. The trade offs may include poor cooling and low alternator>voltage. I would think the real killer for the Turbo car is the low>voltage, what with the ECM, all the sensors, high energy coil packs, high>pressure electric fuel pump, injectors, power accessories, etc.
I think it is in general BS too. A couple of datapoints. I have the prototypeof a product sitting in my lab I call the Cordless Battery Charger. Itconsists of a 2hp weed-whacker-style engine and a physically small alternator.It will generate up to 60 amps at 13.8 volts without fully loading theengine, which is direct-coupled to the alternator and turns at 5800 RPM.60 anps is 828 watts. There are 746 watts to a horsepower so it becomesobvious that even a gonzo 120 amp alternator is only going to usea couple of HP and then only at full output."
"What many people fail to comprehend with the alternator is that if youslow it down, the voltage regulator will simply crank up the field excitationto whatever value it takes to maintain voltage. The mechanical effectis the torque requirement rises as the speed decreases IAWtorque*RPM/5252 = hp. Since watts are the same as hp, the alternator willdraw a constant hp to supply a given watt load. The only differencewill be the very minor air drag difference. On the Cordless BatteryCharger, I can't see the govenor lift at all when spinning an un-excitedalternator so the drag is trivial.
There was an article in Circle Track mag awhile back where Steward Pumpsbuild a water pump dyno to see what the story was on water pumps. Theworst pump consumed about 20 hp. His racing pumps were down around 8 hp.(anyone see a big win?) Underdriving MIGHT help IFF you have extracooling capacity AND can cool adequately at low speed (if you even needto, of course. Don't neglect the need to keep head temperatures asconstant as possible while assessing whether you have excess flow."
"on to the alternator test. I simulated a test with a Summit one-wire, 100 ampere alternator and tested it at several RPMS. I loaded the alternator down with what I thought a fair representation of typical application of 65 DC amperes output at 13.65VDC. At 4500RPMs the alternator averaged over the 4 tests a measily 1.28 hp loss. It was really consistent with the high being 1.29 and the low 1.26 over the testing pulls. "
"With the N52 family, BMW also becomes the first manufacturer to replace the belt-driven water pump with an electric water pump. This eliminates a nearly 3-horsepower drag from the engine, returning better performance and economy".............as most test show a 6-7 HP drag on Q water pump.
We began our testing using a Weiand PN 8240 mechanical water pump, which, although made from aluminum, still runs a stamped-steel impeller, just like the impellers found in stock pumps. We felt this would be most representative of street power. We ran the pump overdriven first, to show the most power-robbing setup. Then we switched pulleys to see how much power could be gained by underdriving it. Lastly, we tossed the belt in favor of an electric pump to find the most power possible. You'll also note that we started all tests at 3,000 rpm. That's because pumping losses below that speed were minimal.
Test 1--Weiand #8240 mechanical pump, March #06061-6152 OVERDRIVE pulleys (5 1/2" water pump, 7" crank) 127-percent overdriven
Test 2--Weiand #8240 mechanical pump, March #06051-6052 UNDERDRIVE pulleys (6 1/4" water pump, 5 1/2" crank) 14-percent underdriven
Test 3--Weiand # 8217 electric pump. Test 1 Test 2 GAIN Test 3 GAIN O.D. U.D. U.D. Electric U.D. vs. Electric RPM TQ HP TQ HP TQ HP TQ HP TQ HP 3000 390 223 393 224 3 1 396 226 3 4 3200 404 246 409 249 5 3 412 251 3 2 3400 415 269 418 271 3 2 421 273 3 2 3600 418 287 421 288 3 1 424 291 3 3 3800 419 303 423 306 4 3 425 307 2 1 4000 417 317 421 321 4 4 423 322 2 1 4200 416 332 419 336 3 4 422 338 3 2 4400 416 348 420 352 4 4 425 356 5 4 4600 415 364 419 367 4 3 424 371 5 4 4800 412 377 414 379 2 2 419 383 5 4 5000 405 385 407 387 2 2 411 391 4 4 5200 393 390 398 394 5 4 401 397 3 3 5400 383 394 387 398 4 4 389 400 2 2 5600 371 396 375 400 4 4 378 403 3 3 5800 359 397 363 401 4 4 366 404 3 3 6000 345 394 348 398 3 4 356 406 6 6 MAX 419 397 423 401 5 4 425 406 6 6 AVG 402 335 406 338 4 3 409 341 3 3
WOULD A RECING PUMP HAVE WORKED BETTER?
You're probably wondering why we didn't also test a Weiand Team G race pump? That's because, while those pumps will use even less power to run than the street pump, they're designed for a higher rpm usage than this motor would see. The racing pumps are typically made for circle track engines that rarely run below 4,000 rpm. Our street engine will rarely see above 4,000 rpm so we thought that'd kinda' be like running slicks on the street. Sure, we know it'd work better, but it doesn't make sense for the everyday commute. Also, race pumps have impellers that are designed for efficiency at high rpm and will flow even less water at idle. Therefore, they may also cause overheating in traffic, just like underdriving your pump might do.
Increasing the power of the car by 30 % would only add about 10% to the top speed of the car, as would reducing the aerodynamic drag by 10 %.
"On the flow bench thread it was mentioned that you could check to see how>inflated the underdrive pulley merchant's claims really are with some>torque sensors. Well, that tied in with a debate I'm currently having>with a friend of mine regarding the underdrive pulleys. So, what's>everyone's opinion? I have seen claims of 20 HP on a Buick V6 Turbo with>the crank pulley alone (pure snake oil, IMHO). I've also seen more>realistic claims of 5HP ... however, I think it's Duttweiller who says he>sees no difference on the dyno. Again, I don't know as that really>proves anything, since I would think it would be very difficult to>measure small HP gains on the dyno reliably. Bottom line, IMHO? Good>hype and hoopla, but very little real gains in a street/strip>combination. The trade offs may include poor cooling and low alternator>voltage. I would think the real killer for the Turbo car is the low>voltage, what with the ECM, all the sensors, high energy coil packs, high>pressure electric fuel pump, injectors, power accessories, etc.
I think it is in general BS too. A couple of datapoints. I have the prototypeof a product sitting in my lab I call the Cordless Battery Charger. Itconsists of a 2hp weed-whacker-style engine and a physically small alternator.It will generate up to 60 amps at 13.8 volts without fully loading theengine, which is direct-coupled to the alternator and turns at 5800 RPM.60 anps is 828 watts. There are 746 watts to a horsepower so it becomesobvious that even a gonzo 120 amp alternator is only going to usea couple of HP and then only at full output."
"What many people fail to comprehend with the alternator is that if youslow it down, the voltage regulator will simply crank up the field excitationto whatever value it takes to maintain voltage. The mechanical effectis the torque requirement rises as the speed decreases IAWtorque*RPM/5252 = hp. Since watts are the same as hp, the alternator willdraw a constant hp to supply a given watt load. The only differencewill be the very minor air drag difference. On the Cordless BatteryCharger, I can't see the govenor lift at all when spinning an un-excitedalternator so the drag is trivial.
There was an article in Circle Track mag awhile back where Steward Pumpsbuild a water pump dyno to see what the story was on water pumps. Theworst pump consumed about 20 hp. His racing pumps were down around 8 hp.(anyone see a big win?) Underdriving MIGHT help IFF you have extracooling capacity AND can cool adequately at low speed (if you even needto, of course. Don't neglect the need to keep head temperatures asconstant as possible while assessing whether you have excess flow."
"on to the alternator test. I simulated a test with a Summit one-wire, 100 ampere alternator and tested it at several RPMS. I loaded the alternator down with what I thought a fair representation of typical application of 65 DC amperes output at 13.65VDC. At 4500RPMs the alternator averaged over the 4 tests a measily 1.28 hp loss. It was really consistent with the high being 1.29 and the low 1.26 over the testing pulls. "
"With the N52 family, BMW also becomes the first manufacturer to replace the belt-driven water pump with an electric water pump. This eliminates a nearly 3-horsepower drag from the engine, returning better performance and economy".............as most test show a 6-7 HP drag on Q water pump.
We began our testing using a Weiand PN 8240 mechanical water pump, which, although made from aluminum, still runs a stamped-steel impeller, just like the impellers found in stock pumps. We felt this would be most representative of street power. We ran the pump overdriven first, to show the most power-robbing setup. Then we switched pulleys to see how much power could be gained by underdriving it. Lastly, we tossed the belt in favor of an electric pump to find the most power possible. You'll also note that we started all tests at 3,000 rpm. That's because pumping losses below that speed were minimal.
Test 1--Weiand #8240 mechanical pump, March #06061-6152 OVERDRIVE pulleys (5 1/2" water pump, 7" crank) 127-percent overdriven
Test 2--Weiand #8240 mechanical pump, March #06051-6052 UNDERDRIVE pulleys (6 1/4" water pump, 5 1/2" crank) 14-percent underdriven
Test 3--Weiand # 8217 electric pump. Test 1 Test 2 GAIN Test 3 GAIN O.D. U.D. U.D. Electric U.D. vs. Electric RPM TQ HP TQ HP TQ HP TQ HP TQ HP 3000 390 223 393 224 3 1 396 226 3 4 3200 404 246 409 249 5 3 412 251 3 2 3400 415 269 418 271 3 2 421 273 3 2 3600 418 287 421 288 3 1 424 291 3 3 3800 419 303 423 306 4 3 425 307 2 1 4000 417 317 421 321 4 4 423 322 2 1 4200 416 332 419 336 3 4 422 338 3 2 4400 416 348 420 352 4 4 425 356 5 4 4600 415 364 419 367 4 3 424 371 5 4 4800 412 377 414 379 2 2 419 383 5 4 5000 405 385 407 387 2 2 411 391 4 4 5200 393 390 398 394 5 4 401 397 3 3 5400 383 394 387 398 4 4 389 400 2 2 5600 371 396 375 400 4 4 378 403 3 3 5800 359 397 363 401 4 4 366 404 3 3 6000 345 394 348 398 3 4 356 406 6 6 MAX 419 397 423 401 5 4 425 406 6 6 AVG 402 335 406 338 4 3 409 341 3 3
WOULD A RECING PUMP HAVE WORKED BETTER?
You're probably wondering why we didn't also test a Weiand Team G race pump? That's because, while those pumps will use even less power to run than the street pump, they're designed for a higher rpm usage than this motor would see. The racing pumps are typically made for circle track engines that rarely run below 4,000 rpm. Our street engine will rarely see above 4,000 rpm so we thought that'd kinda' be like running slicks on the street. Sure, we know it'd work better, but it doesn't make sense for the everyday commute. Also, race pumps have impellers that are designed for efficiency at high rpm and will flow even less water at idle. Therefore, they may also cause overheating in traffic, just like underdriving your pump might do.
-
BlackBirdVQ
- Posts: 314
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:17 pm
- Car: 93 G20, 94 Q45, 00 Altima, 01 Maxima- quite a few
Re: (Q45tech)
Dennis,
I aggree with most of the stuff you posted but.... the whole BUICK GN thing.
These pulleys will not be UNDERDRIVING anything, as underdriving will cause our PS pumps to slow down- more effort to turn the wheel, and also slow down the water pumps. I am not sure if the VH expiriences any water cavitation at higher RPMS like for instance SR20 does at above 6500RPMs. With SR20s its CRUTIAL that you run pulleys to prevent overheating when doing any kinda road racing where sustained high RPMs will cause cavitation problems.
Looking at the actuall peformance data of various larger engine cars- like Maxima or 300ZX for instance, they do add up to a faster vehicle due to its ability to rev up much quicker. Same thing goes for light weight flywheels, and in my opinion Pulley and flywheel make the most "feel of the pants" power than any modification short of FI or N2o in the cars that I have used them both on.
Our VH could use a bit more REV happiness as it already is hampered by a heavy torque converter and tall gearing. My VQ30 feels like a motorcycle engine compared to my VH45.
BTW I'm sorry bout the double post, somehow it posted itself again after I relogged on the NICO forums.
I aggree with most of the stuff you posted but.... the whole BUICK GN thing.
These pulleys will not be UNDERDRIVING anything, as underdriving will cause our PS pumps to slow down- more effort to turn the wheel, and also slow down the water pumps. I am not sure if the VH expiriences any water cavitation at higher RPMS like for instance SR20 does at above 6500RPMs. With SR20s its CRUTIAL that you run pulleys to prevent overheating when doing any kinda road racing where sustained high RPMs will cause cavitation problems.
Looking at the actuall peformance data of various larger engine cars- like Maxima or 300ZX for instance, they do add up to a faster vehicle due to its ability to rev up much quicker. Same thing goes for light weight flywheels, and in my opinion Pulley and flywheel make the most "feel of the pants" power than any modification short of FI or N2o in the cars that I have used them both on.
Our VH could use a bit more REV happiness as it already is hampered by a heavy torque converter and tall gearing. My VQ30 feels like a motorcycle engine compared to my VH45.
BTW I'm sorry bout the double post, somehow it posted itself again after I relogged on the NICO forums.
-
BlackBirdVQ
- Posts: 314
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:17 pm
- Car: 93 G20, 94 Q45, 00 Altima, 01 Maxima- quite a few
Re: (Q45tech)
Tech you are wrong on the "Nissans first V8" statement, Nissan has built V8s since the 70s. Just never sold them state side. I will try to find some pics of the old Nissan V8 and post them here. Some guy on the HybridZ forum is trying to install one of those into his S30. VH was Nissans 1st production DOHC V8. 1st Nissan V8 was called Y series- came in a Y40 and later Y44 sizes.Q45tech wrote:Hard for people to understand that the early Q engine was very exotic compared to most all production and even specialty custom engines. Sure there was cost cutting in some areas but way over spending in others. It was way over built because it was Nissans first V8..........they have learned to progressively decontent V8 to reduce costs over the 15 years.
Other than the chain guide material [selected by chain manufacturer] and valve cover leaks what goes wrong with the use of as designed fuels and 90 day maintenance.
Here is some specs on the Y403988cc92x75 bore&stroke195 hp237 ft/lb9.0:1 compression4bbl carb
-
AZhitman
- Administrator
- Posts: 54542
- Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
- Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
- Location: Surprise, Arizona
- Contact:
Interesting info... I think we can all appreciate the UNDERSTANDING of how, why, and to what extent this will work, which is exactly what Dennis is pointing out.
Nothing wrong with mods, but for God's sake, think for yourselves, understand the physics and math involved and don't trust the damn marketing hype.
I installed a lightweight underdrive pulley kit on my G35 and loved it. It's more of a seat-of-the-pants thing than anything else, as I've not dynoed it.
Nothing wrong with mods, but for God's sake, think for yourselves, understand the physics and math involved and don't trust the damn marketing hype.
I installed a lightweight underdrive pulley kit on my G35 and loved it. It's more of a seat-of-the-pants thing than anything else, as I've not dynoed it.
Re: (Mettler)
If indeed you are saying the pulley is balanced to the motor, then how is it I can buy a new pulley from the dealer and slap it on and have no problems? Or maybe all the harmonic balancers and crank pulleys in the world are really trashing motors and we are not even aware of it!
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
Modified by superuber at 9:00 PM 5/11/2006
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
Modified by superuber at 9:00 PM 5/11/2006
-
heywier427
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:45 pm
- Car: 91 Q45
- Location: CT
Re: (superuber)
quick call japan! superruber, your q is def one of the cleaner ones. well done.
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: (superuber)
Nice Q indeed!!!
BTW can you tell me what nitrous size jet your using (i assume your using JWT nitrous)
BTW can you tell me what nitrous size jet your using (i assume your using JWT nitrous)
Re: 20+HP gain for your G50 (BlackBirdVQ)
When will you have "active" pulley's available? I have a question about heat as well. With the balanced pulley being removed and this lighter weight aluminum pulley in it's place wouldn't heat become a factor here? More friction comes to mind with these which relates to more heat. What about the pump wear?
I'm in and want Pulley's for the Active model G50..I'm also working on bigger custom headers for the G50 and have made some headway, but these won't be anywhere close to as expensive as most custom builders want for their work.
How did I miss this thread up until this point?
red
I'm in and want Pulley's for the Active model G50..I'm also working on bigger custom headers for the G50 and have made some headway, but these won't be anywhere close to as expensive as most custom builders want for their work.
How did I miss this thread up until this point?
red
-
sijoko
- Posts: 961
- Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 6:54 am
- Car: Black 1994 Infiniti Q45 Turbo, Pearl White 2014 Maxima Sport
- Contact:
I just want to confirm what Q45tech stated about the VH45DE.
According to Road & Track's Guide to the New Infiniti Q45 & M30 (1989):
"After final assembly, the engine is further balanced by adding weight to the crank damper..."
I have no idea if swapping out the pulleys will make any noticeable difference in smoothness or engine longevity. The only way to know for sure is to install them.
So when will the prototypes be done?
According to Road & Track's Guide to the New Infiniti Q45 & M30 (1989):
"After final assembly, the engine is further balanced by adding weight to the crank damper..."
I have no idea if swapping out the pulleys will make any noticeable difference in smoothness or engine longevity. The only way to know for sure is to install them.
So when will the prototypes be done?
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: 20+HP gain for your G50 (redmanfx)
red. email me bout said headers..
BTW for all the active and HICAS owners we only need one crank pulley water pump bceause the active crank pulley and HICAS are the same.
BTW for all the active and HICAS owners we only need one crank pulley water pump bceause the active crank pulley and HICAS are the same.
Re: (elwesso)
I read your other post about your nos. If you are running a .046 shot thats probably a 75 shot. Maybe thats why you don't think its enough. I am running a JWT system with a .052 shot (100). Like I said before the .052 is way safe. Also the bottle temp has a lot to do with it. I assume you have a heater? As far as not feeling like you thought it would.... I think to many people have seen the fast and furious and actually believe your car can "fly" on nos. Ever see the need for speed underground demo?... Yea like your eclipse is gonna throw you back in your seat when you are already doing 75mph when you hit the switch. And people actually believe this stuff??? I would stick with the .052 shot and be happy and safe. My car is a 4 door sedan, not a race coupe. It is fun to be doing 40 and smoke the tires!!! http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
Re: Quick call Japan! (heywier427)
Yessir that is one clean Q! How bout some sound clips of the exhaust and vids of your Q in motion.heywier427 wrote:quick call japan! superruber, your q is def one of the cleaner ones. well done.
On the bottle.
Simply Irresistible!
Danisiti 1
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: (superuber)
Yeah i got a heater but i gotta buy a new thermo switch.
Are you using a blanket with the heater? You run them simultaneously?
Sounds nice though. I got a .053 in there right now but cant really test it out because its not warm enough (only getting about 650psi because its only 45F here)...
Are you using a blanket with the heater? You run them simultaneously?
Sounds nice though. I got a .053 in there right now but cant really test it out because its not warm enough (only getting about 650psi because its only 45F here)...
Re: (elwesso)
Yes I run a blanket all the time (looks nice). The heater has a thermostat that cuts off at 85 degrees. Usually the bottle runs 850 to 950lbs. JWT said not to run the system over 950lbs. When I would run the bottle colder the shot does seem weaker. I think it is crucial to run it at that higher temp. I think when you get the temp up you'll see a big difference. Like I said it's not like REAL fast, But it is still really wild!!!!
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: (superuber)
Cool... ill buy a blanket, would look better than just the bare bottle and bracket which is all scratched up (golf clubs).
Im gonna order a blankey and a switch (about $50) and i should be all good...
My shop has the BIN files and DEF files for the JWT nitrous program, hes gonna look at it and maybe make a recommendation on the jet size (Since we cant reprogram JWTs nitrous board)..... Im thinking about going up to a .060 jet depending on what they say. I have the files and tunerpro but i dont know how to make any sense of it! however I got race gas to toy around with these things ...
Im gonna order a blankey and a switch (about $50) and i should be all good...
My shop has the BIN files and DEF files for the JWT nitrous program, hes gonna look at it and maybe make a recommendation on the jet size (Since we cant reprogram JWTs nitrous board)..... Im thinking about going up to a .060 jet depending on what they say. I have the files and tunerpro but i dont know how to make any sense of it! however I got race gas to toy around with these things ...
Re: (elwesso)
Sounds like a winner. Let me know how it turns out. (sorry about going way off topic of this thread!)
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: (superuber)
I will ask you something else.
Does your JWT nitrous setup purge even when the engine is not running... Like can you set the nitrous switch on when the ignition is on and the solenoid will fire.??
From what I heard it is supposed to turn on at like 2000 RPM and turn off at like 6500 RPM.. However I dont think mine does.
Does your JWT nitrous setup purge even when the engine is not running... Like can you set the nitrous switch on when the ignition is on and the solenoid will fire.??
From what I heard it is supposed to turn on at like 2000 RPM and turn off at like 6500 RPM.. However I dont think mine does.
-
Q45denver
- Posts: 945
- Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 6:24 am
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45t
1990 Infiniti Q45
1998 Nissan Frontier
Re: (sijoko)
The crank (main) bearings appear to be a weak spot on these engines. I thought it was the rod bearings until I took a couple of them apart recently,
Re: (elwesso)
You know, I've never tried that. That makes sense to turn on and off at specific times. Basically the only time I arm it is right before I know I am going to use it. After I hit it I turn the switch off. I don't want to forget and leave the switch on .The installation instructions told me not to purge with engine off. Hope that helps.
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Re: (superuber)
yeah you dont want to do that, however i tried it once to verify the operation of my system.
If you doit, just pull the injector fuse out (under the hood, 25A fuse) and crank a few times.
If you doit, just pull the injector fuse out (under the hood, 25A fuse) and crank a few times.
-
BlackBirdVQ
- Posts: 314
- Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:17 pm
- Car: 93 G20, 94 Q45, 00 Altima, 01 Maxima- quite a few
Re: (elwesso)
Quick update on the pulleys....
We should see the completed pulleys by the end of this month, but I can't guarantee it. I will get the 1st set and then test it out for approx 1 week, to see if there are no side effects to this mod. I seen some pulleys that destroy the front crank seal in the past and then you end up seeing oil leaking from the pulley area. I drive alot so I should be able to get 1K miles within a week of driving to get a feel for it, and test out any probable issues. I do not know what they will look like or what the final price will be, so do not ask me.
BTW NOS is for wussies
We should see the completed pulleys by the end of this month, but I can't guarantee it. I will get the 1st set and then test it out for approx 1 week, to see if there are no side effects to this mod. I seen some pulleys that destroy the front crank seal in the past and then you end up seeing oil leaking from the pulley area. I drive alot so I should be able to get 1K miles within a week of driving to get a feel for it, and test out any probable issues. I do not know what they will look like or what the final price will be, so do not ask me.
BTW NOS is for wussies
-
heywier427
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:45 pm
- Car: 91 Q45
- Location: CT
Re: (BlackBirdVQ)
BTW NOS is for wussies
we finnally got back on topic...thats gonna cause a debate!
we finnally got back on topic...thats gonna cause a debate!