yeah he might be on it i will let him know, he is actually from Oregon, it sounds nice with his exhuast, but i give him crap about it being a chick car lol.

what did you ever figure out for your ignition because i remember it was breaking upon the dyno, and that is just about the only stock thing i havent messed with yet. alot of people say the the stock ignition system is better even then spitfires and those types of "supposed upgrades"

idahotuner wrote:yeah he might be on it i will let him know, he is actually from Oregon, it sounds nice with his exhuast, but i give him crap about it being a chick car lol.

what did you ever figure out for your ignition because i remember it was breaking upon the dyno, and that is just about the only stock thing i havent messed with yet. alot of people say the the stock ignition system is better even then spitfires and those types of "supposed upgrades"

I swear by my splitfire setup. The car runs much smoother with them. It eliminated all the little hiccups it had with the stock stuff. I've had my setup for 3 or 4 years with no issues. The issues I had on the dyno weren't due to my ignition hardware, it was all the crap tune I had, lol.

As for the Celica, I agree the standard ones are chick cars, lol, but the Awd turbo ones are just cool in my book. that's why I spent 2 years trying to get one, Haha.

haha i think you and him would be best friends lol, yeah i looked at your pic again and saw it was spitfire coils.

*subscribed*

Not much of an update, lol, but I found out that my Nismo/Tomei FPR doesn't fit anymore, so I had to order a new one (got an AEM external one). Also, I had a buddy at work weld on my tial BOV flange and a threaded bung for an air intake temp sensor on my cold pipe meant for the Greddy intake manifold.

Keep it going. It'll be finished soon enough

hey do you needa nismo fuel rail adapter to run an extrernal fpr

Doesn't have to be nismo but yes, you need an adapter. I have the cheap ebay adapter and works just fine. I'm running the tomei type L (which is basically the same exact thing as the sard large diaphragm)

I got the Tomei adapter, lol. The FPR, adapter and other parts should get here today!

homeslicej2 wrote:Keep it going. It'll be finished soon enough

Someday... ha ha. This is a very long project indeed...

I've had my car since I was 17....... Project still incomplete. Lol.

compactfean wrote:I've had my car since I was 17....... Project still incomplete. Lol.

Mine is at 8.5 years currently, lol.

Did some more work today on the 240. I bolted down the radiator secure (it was just sitting there before) along with the lower radiator hose. I also made a "sweet" bracket to hold my remote oil filter, using an angle grinder and a drill, lol. Here it is mounted up with no filter:



Here it is with the filter installed:



I also filled the motor up with Torco SAE-40 Break-In oil, rotated the motor and torqued the crank pulley bolt. I also installed my uber JDM Greddy magnetic oil drain plug, lol. It was cheap, so what the hell! I did some other things here and there, but nothing too exciting. Hopefully I'll have time tomorrow to do some more work!

Well I got some brake parts in the mail today. Something to help out with going faster ... stopping faster! Ha ha



Two piece rotors (Defsport/Skullworks AL hats), Defsport/Skullworks brackets, Wilwood superlite calipers, wilwood brake lines, and all the hardware. Pads are still in the mail. I also weighed everything:

Both Front Calipers/Brackets/Hardware - 11.2 Lb
Plain Caliper (each) - 5.0 lb
1 Bracket with bolts - .6 Lb
Rotor/Hat/Hardware - 12.0 Lb
Plain Rotor - 10.4 lb
Hat w/ Hardware - 1.6 lb

Total unsprung weight on one side minus pads - 17.6 lbs. I'll weigh the 300ZX caliper setup I have once I remove them to compare, just wanted to get them online for later reference, lol.

Here's the driver side "matched up":

To re coup some of your money on the brakes, there is a guy looking for a bunch of brake stuff for his brake swap in the wtb section. wtb-z32-calipers-bmc-and-e-brake-assy-w ... 50042.html

Thanks! I probably wont get to swapping them over for awhile still, but if he's still looking by then, I'll hit him up. lol

Made a bracket at work for my AEM FPR. Here's the regulator, bracket, and hardware:


Where I'm putting it:


Bracket installed:


FPR installed:


Nothing crazy, just some 6061-T6511 that was laying around the shop, lol. I know it's a little overkill for what it's used for, but whatever. It was free!

lol
Nice. Mine is just a stainless 90deg bent bracket that I cut on our waterjet, uses the bolts that hold the top of the FPR on.

Seishuku wrote:lol
Nice. Mine is just a stainless 90deg bent bracket that I cut on our waterjet, uses the bolts that hold the top of the FPR on.

I wish we had a waterjet. We do very little machined parts in house (all composites we do in-house), so my options are fairly limited. We only have 2 bridgeports, 1 lathe, a brake and some other small various tools.

2_Liter_Turbo wrote:Well I got some brake parts in the mail today. Something to help out with going faster ... stopping faster! Ha ha

Two piece rotors (Defsport/Skullworks AL hats), Defsport/Skullworks brackets, Wilwood superlite calipers, wilwood brake lines, and all the hardware. Pads are still in the mail. I also weighed everything:

Both Front Calipers/Brackets/Hardware - 11.2 Lb
Plain Caliper (each) - 5.0 lb
1 Bracket with bolts - .6 Lb
Rotor/Hat/Hardware - 12.0 Lb
Plain Rotor - 10.4 lb
Hat w/ Hardware - 1.6 lb

Total unsprung weight on one side minus pads - 17.6 lbs. I'll weigh the 300ZX caliper setup I have once I remove them to compare, just wanted to get them online for later reference, lol.

Here's the driver side "matched up":

That's a big weight savings according to http://www.ka24development.com/brake_upgrades.html
He lists the weight of just the 300zx 30mm rotor at 17.5lbs and the 30mm aluminum calipers at 6.5lbs each. That's 24 lbs for the stock 300zx 30mm alum rotor & caliper vs 17.6lbs for the BBK here. Let us know what weights you get though, so they are more consistent with your weights for the kit.

I definitely will. The numbers I have wont do much good until I get the Z brakes weighed. Because the difference is what is more important! over 6 lbs of savings is quite a bit in unsprung weight.

Did some more work. Radiator is fully mounted along with the fans. All the IC pipes and FMIC are all secured along with the BOV being fully installed. All vacuum lines (except WG) are installed. All fuel lines are installed. Mechanically, all I need to do is:

- Install WG and downpipe
- Install spark plugs
- Fab up a throttle cable bracket
- Fill up the radiator w/ coolant
- Mount the PS reservoir

and electrically:

- Redo fan harness
- install 3 autometer gauges
- install replacement gauge cluster
- install tranny harness

After that, it's ready to go off to the shop to get the engine harness finished up and a break tune performed. Then I'll "hopefully" be able to drive it! Hoping to get everything else done next weekend or the following weekend at the latest!

Here's a couple pics of tonight:

Well, I made another uber sweet bracket (not really, lol) out of 6061-T6511. This one is to push the PS reservoir over 40mm so it will clear the turbo. Not the cleanest relocation job, but it'll work for now. I plan to make my own PS reservoir in the future, so this is a temporary solution.

Bracket bolted on the strut tower:


Reservoir bolted in place:

Just a couple pics showing that I'm still working on it, lol.

This is a terminal block in the engine bay for the electric fan harness I've made. I'm running dual electric altima fans off of 4 factory 30amp (blue) relays. I run low speed off of an ignition source, and high speed off a switched source inside the car for when I'm running the piss out of the car. Low speed keeps it plenty cool most days when driving normally (or drag racing). When it's over 100 degrees out or I'm doing extended racing (auto-x, drifting, etc), they are on high.



Here is a terminal string mounted underneath the dash. From left to right I have a ground stud, Constant Batt, Switchable power, Ignition power, and power when lights are on (backlight for gauges). It's handy to have this strip, for when you want to add more gauges (like I'm going to, lol). Did all this this weekend. BTW, neither are finished, but close...

All done with my gauges. Best pic I got with my camera (cut off the fuel pressure gauge, lol). I see all the gauges perfectly sitting in the car. All the gauges are electric full sweep Autometer ES series (obviously the wideband is not a full sweep as it's a digital gauge, lol). Also installed the "new" cluster with the JDM 9k tachometer and the speedometer "adjusted" to read in mph instead of km/h. I know it wont be super accurate, but it'll be nice to see just how fast I am going at the track

When you had your initial twinscroll setup from full race what w/g did you use? the 38mm or 44mm?

K Wolfe wrote:When you had your initial twinscroll setup from full race what w/g did you use? the 38mm or 44mm?

I had (and still use) the 44mm WG.

I had (and still use) the 44mm WG.[/quote]

Thank you, I plan on doing the exact same build as you, twin scroll on a stock sr to begin with. Not to jock you or anything, gonna drift it.

Oh also what'd you do for fans? Flex-a-Lite? Mishimoto? I'm going with a koyo package from frsport, not sure what fans I want to use, mishimotos are pretty cheap but don't know anyone that has experience with them.

lol, no worries. As for fans, I use the OE Altima fans. They work awesome, and last forever. They don't look super clean, but they do the job better than any chinese pos (like the mishimotos). I want to get a Koyo radiator again, the mishimoto radiator sucks. Fitment is poor, the cooling tubes are small (less internal flow capacity), welds look terrible, and it's just cheaply made. Once the motor is all finished and running correctly, my plan is to rid my car of all the cheap chinese crap I shouldn't have put on it in the first place, lol.