when are you gonna ge this thing tuned bro?! i wanna see where your powerband ends up at since im quite the same as you... but i have the full-race with the 3076R and just installed the HKS solid cams 264/264 with the aem ems and greddy intake and mild race P&P.

imtrying to go to central florida turbos but last few times ive had the chance their tuner is outta the country, hopefully i'll chatch him soon enough!

good luck on the tune bro!!!

I am waiting for the motor to get back from the machine shop, then hopefully a few weeks later get it tuned! I wish I went with the 3076R, but oh well, ha ha.

Got my head back from the machine shop. Got it resurfaced. They used a PCBN cutter setup (which is basically a diamond cutter) to get a decent finish to seal with a metal headgasket.



They also installed my Supertech dual valve springs (I don't have a valve spring compressor), new OEM valve seals, and other spring hardware. They also cleaned it up a bit. Going to clean it some more before I install of course.



Now I'm waiting for my test shims to get here (hopefully this week) so I can see what sizes I need to order to get the proper clearances for the Tomei solid lifters.

Lookin good

Did a little work on it last week after work:

Ordered a new set of Tomei test shims


Grabbed my WPC treated (and modified for solid lifters) rocker arms


Cylinder Head


Installed test shims and rocker arms


Installed cams to spec


I then checked the clearances for all the valves, did the math, and ordered the needed shims to have .13mm of gap between the rocker arms and cams. Had to order 10 of the 16 shims from Tomei, the rest from Nissan. Waiting on those and my new cam cap bolts, and the head should be ready to go.

I love this.

Well after a few issues with Nissan getting my shims, I finally got the last 3 today, so I installed them and now the solid lifters are all in spec! Waiting on a new hardware kit I ordered (all new bolts for the motor) to do the last couple finishing touches on the cylinder head. Going to do an S13/4 valve cover conversion as well, waiting for my paycheck before sending that out. Other than that, I'm just waiting on the block to get out of the machine shop!

Picked up my bottom end today! All the machine work is finished, crank is in with the scraper, Scat rods, CP Pistons (WPC treated), ARP mains and ACL race bearings. I'll have lots of updates over the next couple weeks! Couple pics before I start working on it:

By the end of last night I got a few things done. I should get a ton done today!

Oil Pump Prior to assembly:


Timing hardware installed:


Timing cover, water pump and crank pulley lightly installed. Torquing down after "red death" drys, lol. The crank pulley will get torqued when the head is installed along with the rest of the timing gear.

Dude this thing is going to be a beast. Good luck breaking it in and dyno tune.

Thanks!

Yesterday I didn't get a lot done mainly because I also bought a new tool box and was dividing my time getting that sorted and working on the motor, lol. Anyways, here are a couple pics of the progress:

S14 oil pickup installed. This was a big PITA with the scraper in the way...


I got the cylinder head torqued down on an Apexi HG with ARP head studs. I'm always nervous torquing these, ha ha. Cams are also installed with the rest of the timing gear and CAS.

Unless ARP has fixed the issue with their mains, you'll have to clearance the upper oil pan a little. I have these and the windage tray installed on my car and needed to remove a little bit of material on the exhaust side of the motor for the studs on the ARP's and the nuts on the windage tray... I have a DIY post on here somewhere.

That is very true. However, I have a full racing crank scraper/windage tray setup and I had to modify the oil pan to fit that anyways, lol. Everything fits nice and snug now I'll post pics of the upper oil pan and mains once it's all cleaned up right before install.

Here is my upper oil pan that had to be modified to fit the ARP mains and crank scraper.





Here is my progress by the end of today:

Got some more work done today. Turbo/Manifold combo is not bolted down tight, it's just on there so I can build turbo lines. I need a 45 degree AN fitting (ordered tonight) to finish that up so my lines are all set up. I'm now running an S14 water neck, so I was able to delete the hard line at the back of the head as well as the long SS line that wrapped around to the turbo from the hard line. I can also now run a normal heater hose to the heater core rather than the mickey mouse crap that most SRs run due to the hard line pointing the wrong way normally.

cant wait to see this run...

Engine is done. Going in the car today!

Weighed the motor. No PS pump, flywheel or clutch (but with a chain from the hoist) it was 320 lbs dry. The clutch setup was 15.8 lbs and the flywheel was 14 lbs.

2_Liter_Turbo wrote:Weighed the motor. No PS pump, flywheel or clutch (but with a chain from the hoist) it was 320 lbs dry. The clutch setup was 15.8 lbs and the flywheel was 14 lbs.

PyR0NiAk wrote:

2_Liter_Turbo wrote:Weighed the motor. No PS pump, flywheel or clutch (but with a chain from the hoist) it was 320 lbs dry. The clutch setup was 15.8 lbs and the flywheel was 14 lbs.

Starter is 9.6 lbs. So with everything all bolted up with the tranny, it should be sitting at 453.2 lbs without the ps pump, downpipe, WG and intercooler stuff.

It's finally in the car! Lol

Looking good man. I am slowly peicing back together my car. I got the money just trying to get good deals for it.

It does look great man. It's the ultimate SR build. BUT, I honestly don't think you can beat my ET's with my T2 20g and I have about $5500 in my car with a rebuilt stock pan to cover SR20. Nothing but head studs, RAS, and a 1.3mm HG. You better go E85 is all I have to say.

This is with stock cams and intake on nistune and e85 on 24psi.... I'm going HKS 264's and dyno tuning next week.

kentuckyslider wrote:It does look great man. It's the ultimate SR build. BUT, I honestly don't think you can beat my ET's with my T2 20g and I have about $5500 in my car with a rebuilt stock pan to cover SR20. Nothing but head studs, RAS, and a 1.3mm HG. You better go E85 is all I have to say.

This is with stock cams and intake on nistune and e85 on 24psi.... I'm going HKS 264's and dyno tuning next week.

While I do drag race, the motor is being built for road racing and reliability. I'm not too concerned about being the fastest, lol, otherwise I would have went with a MUCH larger turbo/injectors/etc, ha ha. Even so, I was 7.6 in the 1/8 mile and 11.95 in the 1/4 with the stock motor (never opened up, ever, with 200k miles on it) with the same turbo on pump gas, and a sh1tty emance tune (only put down 343whp/334.6wtq for a fairly narrow rpm range). My goals are for around 500whp with the current setup (most likely going to be a little less) on pump gas, and more on race gas. I'm not a fan of E85 because you can't get it everywhere, and I drive my car A Lot (remember I had 200k on the motor before I built it, 140k of which were from me). My guess is that I'll be in the high 10s or low 11s with the new motor depending on how much output I actually get. This is of course after I get used to racing it again... ha ha. It's been 2 years!!!

idahotuner wrote:Looking good man. I am slowly peicing back together my car. I got the money just trying to get good deals for it.

Thanks man! I know how it is for sure, my car has been down for 2 years now! If you are ever in the Portland area, def hit me up man. We can go grab a beer or something.

Hell yeah dude. I just ran to Boise with a busy who picked up an SR 240. Once I get mine running a drive that way should be in order.

I am going twin scroll now too

idahotuner wrote:I am going twin scroll now too

Nice! Which Turbo and Manifold? If I could do it over, I would have gone with the T4 manifold vs the T3. Oh well, lol.

Gt3076r .82. Got a steal on a brand new manifold so I decided to go this route

Its the signaled waste gate full race manifold. Which I like better saves on buying two waste gates. And most the synod I looked at have been 78 twin scroll and they get choked off right about 7500. So a 82 so flow more and my 2.2 should bring it down to peak out right about 8000