2 bolts that wont budge even with 250ft/lbs !!!

[IvoryJ30t]

There's nothing wrong with using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, as long as it's set on zero and unengaged. There was a thread about this a while ago, and the point was made that it is fine to do.

the only time i would advise using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, is if it is on its maximum setting. and use a 20-250 ft lb one, not a 80 lb one.

breaker bars are much cheaper than torque wrenches, go get one.

[IvoryJ30t]

If all else fails, a saws-all will kill it for sure....Lob it off at the nut, the bolt will surely follow.

or a huge cut-off wheel. i have a 4" disc cut-off saw. its basically a two and a half foot long dremel.

[marshun]

hehe. i say invest in air tools. i've got some crazy impact guns and i havent had any problems like that in a long time.

[wangless]

Quote »the only time i would advise using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, is if it is on its maximum setting. and use a 20-250 ft lb one, not a 80 lb one.[/quote]

who said anything about a 80 ft/lb torque wrench? the title says i used a 250...

[extheflow]

if you weren't hitting the "click" at 250 then you weren't putting enough *** into it.that wrench has to be 2" long so you really only need 125lbs of pull.less than your own weight i imagine.if you were pulling through the click then you're tearing stuff up. you should really try and get those off without cutting. can't you get a wrench on it and whack it with a hammer? if you can't get a swing on it driectly try wrench->board->hammer

[Ligouri Rd]

Long story short: if you don't have one, take the car to someplace (muffler shop) that has an Oxy-acetylene torch and have them try to get the bolt out.

I had this exact problem with my drivers side lower front strut bolt. The bolt had siezed itself into the body of the hub/spindle. I actually got the nut off but the bolt wasn't going anywhere. I tried penetrating oil (PB blaster, Lub-E...) every day for two weeks. I tried a torch but it didnt get even slightly past warm (the strut and hub assembly is a lot of metal=huge heat sink). The stock struts are not pressurized, just filled with oil and i was replacing the internals anyway. I limped (three lowering springs on) to the local muffler shop to have them try a Oxy-acetylene torch. That type of torch creates a much more concetrated flame and higher heat to break the corrosion loose. A few raps of a proper impact wrench and it was loose. They retorqued it so I could drive home and ten dollars later all was good.

[IvoryJ30t]

who said anything about a 80 ft/lb torque wrench? the title says i used a 250...

notice i said 250 first.

[wangless]

sorry IvoryJ30t,

thought you said use a 250 and not an 80 next time. misread

[IvoryJ30t]

nah, i meant it as "dont even think of using an 80 ft lb"

[Dattebayo]

If you dont wanna go to the muffler shop, get your local HVAC/ air conditioner guy to use his torch on it. More portable that way.

[180fan]

I'm still impartial to putting a cut into the nut. Put a cut into the nut that's parallel to the length of the bolt, you won't have to cut all the way off, just make one cut that'll get the job done with a ratchet and a 2' pipe. Did that on my sisters's altima when a blowtorch, hosing down with WD-40, impact gun, and regular brute force with a 2' long pipe couldn't do the job.

[burnin240sx]

just get a new bolt and use a cut off wheel.

[180crafter]

I agree. I had a fused bolt on the bottom mount of the shock in the back. Looks like the guy before me hit something, and that was the end of it. Banging, drilling, pb blasting, nothing. Cut that beeoch off and slipped a new bolt thru.

[kahoots240]

get a knuckle from a boneyard and swap it?.

[wangless]

friend told me he finally got the bolts off. someone cut off a piece of the nut, and slowly screwed it off. and the other somehow loosened up. thanks for the input guys. i wonder if he'll post.