Given the current economy and that no one else would put drilled rotors on my vehicle, I decided that I'd post exactly how I did it.

I have a 2003 FX45. I believe the Infiniti FX45, FX35 and the Nissan Murano share the same brake systems…but I’ve been wrong before.

Disclaimer: This post is merely a reference and does not take responsibility for any damage one may end up doing to his or her vehicle if he or she follows this reference. There is a good chance I've done something somewhat wrong and therefore, some basic common sense is required. I had an assortment of metric wrenches, socket wrenches and even an adjustable wrench that came in handy removing the larger bolts (though I always prefer a box wrench for those instances). I wore gloves and safety glasses (particularly when I sprayed the Brake Klean and even more particularly after having shot my eye with Brake Klean.) I used a can of brake quiet (and while I feel the use of something similar is necessary, I have no brand or application preference.) I used jack stands…I strongly suggest using jack stands. I did not purge the brake fluid, so if that’s something you’re interested in doing, you’ll have to go somewhere else to find out how…I’m interested. You could always add it to this thread or somewhere on this forum…that’d be wicked cool (for all you Bostonians). 1. Take the pads out of their box and wrapping and place them on a clean paper surface (i.e. a brown paper bag or news print) and spray the metal side of the pads with brake quite. Wait ten (10) minutes and do it again. The $3.50 can (or tube, your preference) is worth every penny…I don’t care what pads you use, they have the potential to squeal, and this stuff keeps that from happening.

2. Place the parking brake on and chuck your rear wheels (the FX45 comes with a wheel-stop if you can believe it, but I’d suggest something a little more robust.)

3. Remove the nut cap on your wheels and break/loosen the nuts (including the locked nut. The key is usually that strange looking cylindrical nut that’s been rolling around in your glove box or center consul. If you can’t find the key to your lock-nut, you’re screwed. If you don’t have a lock-nut on your wheels, I’m coming to get’em…no I kidd, but you should probably have one.) You don’t need to overly loosen the nuts, just enough so that you can take them off once the vehicle is up.

4. Jack the vehicle up so that the wheel is about 2” (inches) off the ground and place a jack-stand under the vehicle at the designated lift point on your frame. If you don’t have jack-stands, get them. This isn’t the most dangerous job, but it sure can be if you don’t have jack-stands.

5. Remove the wheel nuts and the wheels, place them out of the way and in a safe place…you’ll need them again hopefully.

6. There are two bolts that hold the caliper in place. Both need to come out. I think they were 14mm, but you’ll have to check again. If you’re having a problem with the inner-nut (the nut in which the bolt threads) spinning, use vice grips or a wrench slender enough to hold it in place.

7. Once the caliper has been removed, hang it up on the shock/strut flange where your spring sits and secure it with a strap or zip tie.

8. Remove the old pads carefully. If you have cheap pads, or generic pads, their clips may not function effectively and therefore you’ll have to use the old clips. You can otherwise toss the old pads (even if you’re only intent is to change the rotors, the amount of work and the inexpensive nature of pads lends to the cost effectiveness of changing the pads now...not to mention the uneven wear they’ve probably endured as a result of warped rotors.)

9. Remove the giant bolts that hold the caliper assembly and place the caliper assembly bracket aside (somewhere safe.)

10. If the rotor doesn’t slide off easily at this point, it’s frozen on as a result of rust. This is common. A slight tap is all it should take to loosen and remove the rotor. I’d suggest using a rubber mallet if you intend on re-using the rotors after having them turned / machined (to prevent gouging.)

11. Clean the area with solvent and place the new rotors on the wheel hub. Use two wheel nuts (hand tight) to hold the rotor in place.

12. Replace the caliper assembly bracket using those giant bolts. I use Thread-loc (blue) because it prevents corrosion and I don’t have to worry about the bolts backing out on their own. Again, I’m no mechanic; the blue Thread-loc may burn up in this usage and be totally useless. Either way, it’s probably not a bad idea to know the torque specs and make sure you hit them when tightening these bolts and all subsequent bolts.

13. Attach the caliper assembly with the top bolt to the caliper bracket so that it can swivel up.

14. Use a C-clamp to gradually force the brake piston back, making room for the new pads. I say gradual and I mean gradual. If you force the piston back too quickly, you could do damage to the master cylinder or other components of the brake system (actually that may be B.S., but I’ve been told to do so for this reason and that’s what I do.)

15. Place the brake pads into their respective slots on the caliper bracket and slide the caliper assembly down.

16. Place the lower bolt into the caliper bracket and tighten both top and bottom bolts so that the caliber assembly is secure.

17. The brake job is pretty much done at this point. I should mention that using Brake Klean or some other no-residue solvent is key throughout this process. Don’t allow any oil or sludge to get on the pads or remain on the rotors (including the natural oils from your hands.) Oils obviously reduce friction and hence reduce braking power, but they also retain heat. Keep the area clean.

18. Remember to tighten the wheel nuts once the vehicle has been lowered…tighten the wheel nuts or bad things may happen…tighten them when in doubt…but don’t over tighten.

19. Remove the chucks or you’ll either crush them or drive over them…then you’ll feel like a moron after all that hard work.

Hope that helps.
Modified by OustedFaust at 10:08 AM 10/31/2009