1999 Qx4 no power to ignition/dome lights

[brynderwen]

I've been experiencing, suddenly no power or super dim gauge lights when turning ignition and it won't start. It also sometimes involves the dome lights, electric seat. Battery is fine. Checked power at Accessory leads off battery and in fuse box, power seems fine. A suspect was a possible fusible link which is 100 amp fuse. It looks fine, no visible fuse broken. There is also what they call a "circuit breaker" in that line directly to the dome light, electric seat, and theft control box. Curious about that thermal "circuit breaker" on the wiring diagram and also, where it is. Should be the exact same wiring on the Pathfinder of same year.
I had to have it towed home from one time it would not start. 3 days later, the dome lights work and it starts right up. Now I'm afraid to take it anywhere because if I get back in, it might not start again. Happened about 5 times now. The last one was me working on it for 3 hours until I gave up and had it towed.
Has anyone else experience something like this before?
99, 347 miles and mostly garage kept.
I'm new here and hope this post is okay. I did try searching before I posted this. Hard to describe.
Thanks

[mdmellott]

When you checked for power at the battery, with a volt meter I assume, was the engine running and did you measure approximately 14V? I'm thinking alternator issues if you only get 12V or so while the engine is running.

[VStar650CL]

If your battery and block connections are good and don't have any hidden corrosion, I'd start by checking your ignition switch. Something is supplying crappy power and not no-power, so use a bulb-type test lamp and not a voltmeter. To test a circuit's ability to carry power, you want something that draws power. Bulbs do, voltmeters and LED test lamps don't. Check the supply wire into the switch first, if it dims greatly or goes out when the problem occurs, then your problem is somewhere between the battery and the switch. Then check the output wires (there will be two in the ignition position, plus one in the accessory position). If the switch checks out, break out the voltmeter and start doing voltage-drop tests between the battery hot terminal and the stuff downstream. When you get to a spot with a high voltage-drop, you've found your high resistance.

[brynderwen]

Hey guys, thanks. I really do appreciate any help. First, no the engine was not running when I tested the battery. The car would not start as there was dim dash lights and sometimes no dash lights at all, along with the dome light, electric seat, windows, key won't lock all the doors. Car starts now and dome lights are working, I will test battery while running, for higher alternator voltage, good idea.
I actually cut insulation off of the two wires that go to the fuse box right at the battery and get 12.57 volts there on both of them. Again, when car would not run. For the life of me, it is now running. I'm afraid to go anywhere and turn it off for fear it won't start again, which has happened about 5 times now. What the hell. One of the wires goes to the 100 amp called "fusible link" by Nissan. On the electrical schematic that circuit goes through what they call a "circuit breaker" and then to power on ignition switch and also a separate "always on" circuit: door locks, dome lights, electric seat, theft control box, etc. I was wondering if it's possible for that "circuit breaker" could be faulty and if someone might know where it is. After all, the car is almost 23 years old. The power separates before it goes to the ignition switch, that is why I suspect something different than the ignition switch. But it goes through the "circuit breaker" before it separates to the two circuits, one ignition, and 2nd always on power circuit.
For the life of me, I can't find that inline "circuit breaker" still available by dealer. It's the same as the Pathfinder, maybe someone knows where it is? The Schematic says it's a thermal type circuit breaker and I'm wonder if it is failing, if I could locate it, I'd replace it or at least I could test the circuit at that point. It's only $32 dollars. Maybe I should make another post asking if anyone knows where the inline "circuit breaker" is on Infiniti Qx4 same as Pathfinder. What do you guys think?
Thank you so much. I really feel like I need to find that breaker. The parts guy gave me a rough location in a Nissan part locator diagram. But it doesn't show me exact location. But there is a drawing of what the "circuit breaker" looks like and I don't see anything that looks like it under the hood or under the dash. Could it be in the windshield cowling? Or behind a plastic wheel well cover near the driver side?
Frustrating.

[VStar650CL]

Those thermal breakers are usually only on the circuit for the power seats (and tilt wheel if equipped) and maybe the power windows. I'll take a look at your WD's, but that circuit definitely won't supply the cluster or anything on the engine.

[brynderwen]

Those thermal breakers are usually only on the circuit for the power seats (and tilt wheel if equipped) and maybe the power windows. I'll take a look at your WD's, but that circuit definitely won't supply the cluster or anything on the engine.

Thanks Vstar,
There was a little corrosion on the battery terminals and I dipped it all in Coke and cleaned the terminals up. I did the cleaning before the issue and then again after to see if it would solve issue. But when the ignition was not working and the dome lights, power seats and other did not work, I cut into the insulation on the two separate leads that go to the Fuse and Fusible Link box, right next to the battery. I got 12.57 volts. So, maybe I am missing something and it can read 12.57 volts but maybe because there is no load and I need to use a bulb tester like you suggested and it isn't carrying the amps? Ah ha..... That sounds logical. So I think I should replace the battery terminal but I can't seem to find one with two extra terminals besides the alternator main terminal. Any ideas or work arounds for that?
Because it is intermittent, I suspect that could be the case. I even took off battery cable and tried cleaning again when it wasn't getting power and even jiggled the wires to see if it would contact and hoping car would start, nothing. I can go out and start the car right now and it fine. But like I said, if I go anywhere, I am afraid it will not start again. Damn frustrating.
So I think I will change the battery post terminal and try to figure out a way to attach the two extra 6 gauge connection wires to it. The leads are not very long from the Fuse and Fusible Link box. Going to be a challenge.
Thanks

[VStar650CL]

Yah, that old style of hot connector can be a PITA to find, the more modern ones use a fusible-link card without the separate box. You might want to consider reworking it neatly using a marine or audio gang connector, something like this:

Audio Gang Connector.png (13.37 KiB) Viewed 940 times

[VStar650CL]

Looks like most of the stuff you're losing like the cluster are powered via the Ignition Relay in the fusebox. On a ride that old, crappy relay contacts causing high resistance are a good possibility, just like crappy Ignition Switch contacts. If you need to start tracing, the SM for your ride is available here in Nico. Here's a link to the electrical section, the power schematic and diagrams are on EL-7 thru EL-13:

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 9%2FEL.pdf

You'll see the Ignition Switch on 12~13, the fat White/Blue wire will be your battery supply from the 60A fusible link, ignition output 1 will be Black/White, output 2 will be Red/Yellow.

[brynderwen]

Thanks Vstar,

Love the full sized schematics. Yes, I see the ignition switch on 12-13 and found ignition relay also.
Much appreciated.
I also found a nice Multi battery terminal that will take my 1-1/0 and 2- 6 gauge wires. It looks perfect and should not be too hard a fix. I think it is a good place to start.
Excellent idea.
Happy Holidays

[VStar650CL]

You're most welcome, hope that does the trick for you. Merry Christmas, and as always, happy motoring!

[brynderwen]

Update: Thank you VStar for all your informative help. I feel a bit bewildered of my diagnosis. It turns out my Interstate Battery was internally shorting out. I didn't have a battery Amp draw tester and decided to go to my local station mechanic to have him test it, It was 7 years old and it failed. When I went to the Interstate dealer to buy a new battery, he explained that it can develop internal corrosion. And internal corrosion can cause the battery terminal to corrode prematurely. Crap! Put the new battery in and everything works perfectly now. I feel a bit stupid.
I wanted to give you an update and thank you for your time in helping me.
Have you ever worked on a 1999 Pathfinder or my QX4 before? I am at 100,000 miles and the car manual says replace timing belt. I went to the Nissan dealer and he said, they have a kit that includes the belt change and also two seals, a belt bearing, and a new water pump. $380 kit parts. And $1,100 in labor. He said they don't have to remove the radiator. I wonder if I could do this myself? They also recommend: Front and rear differential fluid changes at $165 each. Transfer case fluid change at $175. Transmission fluid change at $250. Coolant change at $190. And plugs and wires change at $463. $2,646 ?
What do you think? Thanks