1999 I30 Buzzing

[JSullivan]

Ok new to the forum and would like to get some thoughts. I am in college so need to see if I can fix this on my own first.

Several days ago started hearing what different sound coming from the engine (usually quiet) I sounds like someone is using a weed-eater or chain saw inside the engine. Then I was driving home and all the lights on the dash and radio started flashing. I pulled in the drive and turned the car off. Tried to start it again and all I could get was the clicking sound. I just replaced the battery several months ago so don't think it would be that but will have them check. Once I get the battery checked where should I go from there. If you explain the steps I will be able to follow. My first thought is the starter or alternator - would that be your first things to look at.

1999 Infinit I30 - 138,000

Thanks for your help

J

[maxhopper]

Welcome to NICO!

It sounds like the alternator to me. You should be able to remove the alternator and have it tested somewhere like Advance or Autozone.

[loystock]

Also check the condition of the drive belt and the idler pulley. You may also have 'crossed' wires or loose connections to the alternator. The battery is probably 'dead' due to the failed alternator. If you could jump-start the car, check the alternator charging voltage with the engine running. A good alternator charging voltage should be steady and >13.8VDC (spec is 14.1-14.7VDC). If the charging voltage is low and/or fluctuating, the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced. Better have the battery recharged too if you are going to install a new alternator.

[JSullivan]

OK I took the car up to autozone and they said it comes back with P0325 - Knock sensor. He said I could do this on my own but gave me a price for the part at $135.00. He didn't have a write up on how to change it out. Could someone talk (write) me
through this? He said that is probably why the the car was having trouble starting.
Thanks

[tigersharkdude]

I dont think the Knock Sensor is your problem. Seriously if the CEL comes on the KS code gets thrown.

[JSullivan]

The CEL has never come on. I just charged up the battery and then drove it up to them to see if they would check to see if there were any codes and the P325 code came up. So what should i do now. I did buy one of those multimeters but have not used it yet. The car did start to hesitate a little. I thought it was because of gas and was going to do a couple of fill ups of super. Thoughts...

[maxhopper]

Knock sensor is not causing the problem. Have the alternator tested.

[loystock]

I do agree with 'max' and 'tiger.' A KS problem will not affect starting nor cause the engine to stall.

A battery usually lasts 3 years or more, depending on location and usage. Either something is draining the battery (short circuit) or the alternator is not charging enough. So again, check the entire drive to the alternator - belts and pulleys; check the alternator wiring and connections; and the charging voltage. When in doubt, take it out and have it tested at car parts store (it usually free).

Hold off on replacing the KS sensor. It may be a valid code but crazy things do happen when the alternator is on the way out.

[JSullivan]

OK I went and bought a digital multimeter and tested the alternator. With the car not started I got a reading of 12.37 and with the car started and lights on and heater on high I got 12.18 - 12.30. It was going back and forth within that set of numbers. So would my next step be to replace the alternator or battery?

Also I don't have the service manual and the guy at the part store said that the maxima is the same engine and I could get a book on the maxima and use it for the I30 (1999)? True?

Thanks for all the input

J

[loystock]

The battery is @ 75% charge, most likely due to the bad alternator. Replace the alternator. Once the alternator has been replaced, check the charging voltage (some refurbished alternators from parts store may also be bad. If I were you, I would ask them to check it before installing in your car). Once the battery has been charged (drive around if you have to), shut down the engine and check it's voltage is >12.5 VDC. If not, the battery may be weak and needs to be replaced.

Go to page EL-33 in the attached link to alternator replacement procedure. Make sure any lock to the Idler Pulley Adjustment bolt is released before loosening it ( to avoid stripping it).

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/1999/el.pdf

[JSullivan]

Well I got the alternator replaced and all seems well. The problem is that when I had the car up I noticed rust on the radiator support. Took it to a body shop and they want $1400 to fix. I am just sick...I will have to borrow the money to get this fixed. He said my engine will fall out if I don't get it fixed asap.

Thanks for all the help

J

[loystock]

I'm glad replacing the alternator fixed the original problem.

As for the corroded radiator support, stay away from that mechanic/shop. Your engine will not fall off even if the radiator support breaks since you still have left and right engine mounts.

The part itself is @ $200 but replacing it involves welding and may be problematic for you. So better call body shops or repair shops and get quotes. The repair cost (parts and labor) should be $600 or more. But if the rust is not that bad and does not affect the integrity of the support, you can try POR15 or Rust Bullet rust treatment (@ $40+/quart).

[audtatious]

If it's just rusty but not corroded through then treat it with a anti-rust primer that will kill the rust while coating the area. Not sure a name brand tho.