In most cases, dealer diagnostics are accurate since they have the more sophisticated test equipment. But looks like you would like to save some money. Besides, the Control Unit seldom fails. So I suggest that you take a 2nd opinion or do your own fault isolation using the built-in diagnostics. All you need is a jumper wire between the Data Link Connector (DLC) and chassis ground. The testing procedure and interpretation of results are straightforward.
Ensure that battery and alternator are Ok, then check the brake fluid level and ABS Actuator assembly. for any sign of leak.
Refer to the attached link below. Page BR-40 for Diagnostic info; BR-46 for Preliminary checks; BR-47 for Component Location; BR-48 for Schematic Diagram; BR60&61 and 70&71 for actual diagnostics; BR-62 for Malfunction Codes. There are lots of useful info from the FSM on how to approach your problem. You can save money if you can identify which component really needs replacement
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1998_Q4 ... Q45/br.pdf