1998 Pathfinder will not start

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Deadpath
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Hello all,
Today I was driving it and it drove just fine but after coming out of a store it started up and after I put it in reverse there was a chug then it died and has refused to start.

I bought it used so do not know the service history but it has run great for me the last 6 months.

It has 140k miles on it.

The fuel was low at the time but not empty and I added 2 more gallons to the tank after it failed to start.

The engine cranks, the fuel pump primes but it does not even start to catch and get started.

Any thoughts? I am thinking fuel filter....
Thanks!


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Towncivilian
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Car: 2001.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE 3.5L 2WD A/T
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A clogged fuel filter could be a potential cause. Before attempting to start, cycle the key from off -> on several times to build up fuel pressure and see if that helps it start. If so, the fuel filter is a likely culprit. Replace with a NAPA Gold 3023 or Wix 33023. Replacement guide is here.

Check under the distributor cap for dirt or dust build up, and blow it out with some compressed air if there is significant build up.

Deadpath
Posts: 23
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Towncivilian wrote:A clogged fuel filter could be a potential cause. Before attempting to start, cycle the key from off -> on several times to build up fuel pressure and see if that helps it start. If so, the fuel filter is a likely culprit. Replace with a NAPA Gold 3023 or Wix 33023. Replacement guide is here.

Check under the distributor cap for dirt or dust build up, and blow it out with some compressed air if there is significant build up.
Thanks,
What tools will I need to get the distributor cap off? I do not have the vehicle here, it is still at the store.

Thanks

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fueler
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did it throw any engine lights? if so, the ECU will tell you what has failed.

Deadpath
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fueler wrote:did it throw any engine lights? if so, the ECU will tell you what has failed.
The check engine light did not come on.

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Chuck Tribolet
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I don't think it's the fuel filter. Failing fuel filters fail at full throttle first.

Test to see if you have a spark.

Deadpath
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Chuck Tribolet wrote:I don't think it's the fuel filter. Failing fuel filters fail at full throttle first.

Test to see if you have a spark.
That is good news I suppose since I doubt I can change the filter out where the car is now. I am probably the wolds worst mechanic, how do I check for spark?
I have an OBD2 reader here at home. Will that get any info from the car that might be usable?
Thanks

Deadpath
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Chuck Tribolet wrote:I don't think it's the fuel filter. Failing fuel filters fail at full throttle first.

Test to see if you have a spark.
One more question...
I just watched a video on youtube that mentions spraying starter fluid in the engine to see if it is a fuel problem (if the engine starts up then dies right away it is apparently a fuel issue). Where would I spray this? If anyone has a picture of where to spray it I would really appreciate it.
Thanks

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Towncivilian
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Car: 2001.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE 3.5L 2WD A/T
2007 Nissan Altima 2.5L CVT
2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0L CVT Special
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Location: Florida, USA
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I believe you spray starting fluid into the intake somehow. Removing the air filter is probably the simplest method to do so.

Deadpath
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Towncivilian wrote:I believe you spray starting fluid into the intake somehow. Removing the air filter is probably the simplest method to do so.
Thanks,
I will go to work on the car in an hour. Right now I am thinking it might be a dirty distributor cap but will take my PC along and post what I find.

Thanks all for the help so far.

Deadpath
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Deadpath wrote:
Towncivilian wrote:I believe you spray starting fluid into the intake somehow. Removing the air filter is probably the simplest method to do so.
Thanks,
I will go to work on the car in an hour. Right now I am thinking it might be a dirty distributor cap but will take my PC along and post what I find.

Thanks all for the help so far.
Ok, the problem was the round plastic base of the rotor had shattered so I now have a new rotor and distributor cap and the car runs great but I do hear a clicking noise from insinde the cap. Is this normal?
Thanks

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Chuck Tribolet
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I'd look very carefully for a piece of the broken rotor still inside.

To test for spark, pull a spark plug, put the wire back on the plug, and set the plug so it touches a grounded metal part of
the engine that's away from the empty spark plug hole (fuel mixture comes out that hole while cranking, and the spark
could light it). Have a buddy crank the engine over while you watch and listen for the spark.

Deadpath
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Chuck Tribolet wrote:I'd look very carefully for a piece of the broken rotor still inside.

To test for spark, pull a spark plug, put the wire back on the plug, and set the plug so it touches a grounded metal part of
the engine that's away from the empty spark plug hole (fuel mixture comes out that hole while cranking, and the spark
could light it). Have a buddy crank the engine over while you watch and listen for the spark.
Ok, I was able to check for spark today before opening the top and realizing the problem. There was no spark of course because the rotor had fallen apart.

I drove it today after fixing it for 20 miles and so far so good but will open it up tomorrow to make sure there is none of the broken plastic left inside.

FYI the clicking noise I am hearing seems like it is the rotor making electrical contact as it spins and this seems like it is normal, does anyone elses make it or am I deluding myself?

Thanks again, So far I am only out 60$ and I am hoping it stays that way.

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Chuck Tribolet
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The rotor should not be touching the contacts in the cap. There should be a very small amount of clearance (it's probably
speced in the FSM) and the spark leaps the gap.

Deadpath
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Chuck Tribolet wrote:The rotor should not be touching the contacts in the cap. There should be a very small amount of clearance (it's probably
speced in the FSM) and the spark leaps the gap.
The car is now barely running. Today as I was driving it was missing at high speed then became worse to the point that it was barely able to do 30 MPH and RPM's were jumping up and down. I am thinking that the distributor itself is bad causing the rotor to not spin properly and really screwing the timing up.
Anyone have any input on this?

The rotor looks ok to me and is brand new.

Thanks

Deadpath
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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One other thing:

Where is the LED in the distributor? I am not seeing one.

Deadpath
Posts: 23
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:37 pm

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Deadpath wrote:One other thing:

Where is the LED in the distributor? I am not seeing one.
I realize most people must be busy with holiday fun but if anyone can tell me where the LED is I would really appreciate it. I want to make sure it is clean before I go and buy a new Distributor.

Thanks


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