'98 240sx ka24de I've had a fidanza 143241 flywheel and ACT XTG6 for a while, and recently, the clutch went out. I've been reading about this white bunny setup, and since I had a fidanza 143281 sitting under my bed for a few years, I decided to give it a try. I bought an exedy 300zx z32 na clutchset, I installed everything , including new clutch master cyl. & slave cyl, took it for a run, and now the car won't go into gear while running, and with the clutch pedal out, it makes noise like it's partially engaged. Do I need the 300zx release collar for this setup? I'm missing something. I've bled everything numerous times.Any help would be appreciated.

Can you see the clutch fork moving when you push on the clutch pedal? If it is not moving, you might have to bleed the lines again for the thousandth time! At least that is how it has worked for me. I could'nt get the clutch on a Volvo I was working on to operate until I used a vacuum brake bleeder.

Yes, I have a vacuum bleeder, I eliminated the dampener the last time I changed my clutch, I pump the pedal 20 times, hold it to the floor, then pump the vac bleeder then open the bleeder screw. Also, the pedal feels too light. I was thinking maybe I have to change the throw out bearing collar but I'm not sure. Thanks for the help.

And yes, the fork moves when I push the clutch in.

Clutches are always engaged until you push the clutch, and if it were a release or throw out bearing problem, you would always be in gear, and grinding gears at shifts.
You have the opposite problem. Could you have the wrong pressure plate? Did you forget to tighten the pressure plate bolts? Are there bearings between the clutch and pressure plate, or were they integral to the plate? It must be something tied to that.

Update: After pulling my transmission back out, I found that all of the fw bolts except oue were loosened back up, & one was broken, and the clutch disc was scraping on the bolt heads. I reused the old bolts, and found out that they are not supposed to be reused, just like head bolts, when torqued, they stretch, and since this is the 4th clutch, I probably should have changed the bolts, but never thought to. I bought a new exedy for the ka24de, and I'm using my old ka Fidanza, because I'm not sure what parts I need to change to make the na z32 clutch work, like the bearing collar, & my 280 flywheel got pretty chewed up, but I can still use the new friction surface on my 240 flywheel, so I'm just putting the stock setup back in , & next time the clutch goes out, it's going to be time for an engine swap anyway.

Oh, and I got some arp bolts this time, along with new pivot ball, and the 2 springs

I ran into another snag with my flywheel. I had to retap the crankshaft holes from the loose bolts messing the first threads up. I went to torque my new ARP bolts, and all but one clicked, I kept slowly turning it, and it got loose instead of tight. Tapped the hole again, & found that there's still good threads further in. I went to Harvey' Auto Supply, and got some 12mm x1.25 bolts that are 30mm long ( 1/4" longer than the ARP's) and they are the 10.8 grade bolts. I used the arp grease and red threadlocker, and put it in and it torqued down and it clicked. To keep the balance, I took the bolt that was straight across from it out and put a longer one in it also. I'll let you know if it works, or if it flies apart! HaHa! And the correct size thread is 12mm x1.25, incase anyone needs to tap their crank holes. Just make sure the bolt heads are shorter or the same as the factory bolts.