1997 Q45 - Need Guidance

[texas_ranger]

Hello Folks,

I'm a newbie to this site and hoping to get some guidance on some repairs for my 97 Q45 with about 120k miles on it.
I have driven about 50K miles after i bought it, and only changed the spark plugs/tune up, plus the regular maintenance - replacing air filters, oil changes (at dealership), new tires.

Went to a infiniti dealership and they recommended the following services be done:
1. Drive belts:
2. Valve cover gaskets:
3. Compression rod bushings:
4. BG1 (fuel Injectors):
5. In-Cabin micro filter:
6. Differential service:
7. Transmission flush:
8. Brake fluid flush

Obviously, getting all these services at one time is going to be a lot to handle.
I'm trying to prioritize these and was hoping folks could guide me in prioritizing these.


This is what they had to say about #2 and #3
"the valve cover gaskets are leaking actively and oil is saturating other engine components and the compression rod bushings are busted. If valve covers not replaced the oil will cause swelling of other hoses and also damage sensors over time and compression rod bushings is part of the front suspension, which will degrade tires because of the free play in suspension".

Also , i will appreciate if you can point any of these services are "nice to do" but not required.

Appreciate your guidance.

Thanks!

[elwesso]

Overall I agree with the dealer's analysis... I really have a hard time prioritizing those because all of them are important and what most of us here would consider normal maintenance.. I am surprised they recommended all that stuff. I would recommend all of that stuff be done, however here are my comments...

The valve cover gaskets arent that important if you dont notice any smoke coming from under the hood, or smell any burning... Once they get to that point, they should be done. Definitely if you decide to do them, do the spark plugs at the same time.

I would consider the drive belts probably the most important, because if you bust a belt you could really cause some serious damage...

After that, I would lump together the brake fluid, AT, and diff fluid changes (which is what they mean by "service")

I would consider the fuel injector service the least important but its still not a bad idea.

WELCOME to NICO!!

[texas_ranger]

Thanks for the guidance.

I do smell burning oil, and also see some oil gathering under the car in the garage. I will definitely change the spark plugs when getting work done on the valve cover. The car seems to have lost some power and obviously mileage is poor too.

Also one other thing that i forgot to mention was that my TCS / ABS light has been ON for a while now, not sure if its related to any of the services recommended by the dealer. Any idea , if its related or not ?

Thanks again and glad to be a part of NICO.

[loystock]

If you have to prioritize, do 1-2-3-8-7-6 first. I replace the fluid in all my cars every 2 years. If the cabin doesn't stink from bad AC air, you can defer the Cabin Filter replacement. To avoid AC stink, ensure the evap drain is not clogged and turn off the compressor (ECON mode) a couple of miles before arriving at destination. You can also cycle the AC at extreme temp (hot then cold) and hopefully it kills any mold(s) in the evap/filter. Open the windows and sunroof so the extreme temp may not bother you.

You can use a bottle or two of Redline SI-1 Fuel system Cleaner or even Gumout Regane (not regular Gumout which could be mainly kerosene or the likes). Both contain @ 40% of PEA (polyether amine) which is good in cleaning fuel injectors and combustion components. Techron Fuel System Cleaner is also good but is not as concentrated. I used to be a big fan of BG44K until they changed their formulation.

The OEM spark plugs (NGK PFR5G-11) are rated at 105,000 miles. Since you changed them recently, they are probably still good, unless the oil leak has contaminated them. Each one is @$10 but you can get them cheaper from NICO sponsor, IoS (Infiniti of Scottsdale) - infinitipartsUSA.com

As for the ABS/TCS lights, it could be due to a bad ABS relay but other components like wheel sensors, solenoids, etc., can trigger those lights. There is a built-in diagnostic capability (need a jumper wire to DLC (Data Link Connector) to isolate the problem. But you seem to be less inclined to work in your car so a diagnostic by dealer will be $60 or more.

[New Jersey]

i did 1,5,6,7, and sparg plugs when i bought my car. i then had to replace the rad. (never got hot, just something came up on the highway and meesed up the rad)
i have the same issues as you with my 140k car.
my oil change guy (who i personally know) said im leaking oil ffrom the valvecover gaskets. ugh
how much is labor on that? difficult job?
i also have the abs/trac lights on. from reading the forum it seems most say its the relay. i bought a used abs computer before reading about the relay.
im gonna try the relay first and see what happens. i'll post here.
i bought the relay off rockauto.com and it ws slike $13 shipped. a relay is a relay, so i wouldnt bother with the dealer on that.

your airbag light on?

[oldmako]

I'll toss in my opinion but I have NOT read the other responders, so if I say something twice or duped advice just blow me off and chalk it up to Modelo Negro, and Two Buck Chuck Cabernet.

Do you have any wrenching skills?? I only "axe" because you take it to the dealer for oil changes. If you don't wrench for sport and self abuse, then ignore most of my post. If you wrench, well.....here goes...

Most of this is EASY stuff.

1. Order some belts from IOS, along with the cabin air filters. While you wait for them to show, download the Facroty Seviovioche Manwell. FSM. Read up on the belts, the tensioners, and the filter(s) install.

2. Drive hot rod to Advance Automobilio. While there, purchase any tools you may need, and two cans of fuel jizz.....I like the chevron stuff...techroline or whatever its called. Its expensive and worth it.

Buy two quarts of brake fluid. Make sure you get the correct one. (FSM)
Buy a three dollar brake fluid changer gizmo, unless you have a nubile and willing assistant.
Buy a candy bar or three. Maybe a cheap flashlight and a creeper too. Beer is good.
Buy some good engine oil (synthetic and a good filter)
Buy some synthetic rear end diff fluid. M1.
Buy some new wiper blades...they're probably shot, or will be soon.
Buy one of those cool little wire gizmos to clean your batt terminals. Everybody needs one.
Buy a new fuel filter, and an air filter. Once a year for these mofos.....probably time or soon.

On the way home, add the fuel stuff to the tank and fill it up. Do this again on the next fill up.

Jack up front end of hotrod and replace belts. Not hard, but particular....like a jig saw puzzle, only you'll probably have to go inside to pee, and its a lot dirtier. The tension is very important, but its not rocket science. Took me two hours or so, and saved me almost three hundred U.S. Dollars. That's a lot of bourbon.

Change oil while under the beeotch and dirty. Ditto the fuel filter. You read the FSM right?

Bleed brakes with the little gizmo, or have your nubile assistant help. The goal here is to shoot fluid out till it comes out clean. Make sure that you keep the fluid level up in the reservoir! Shoot some Aerokroil or PB blaster on the bleeder first.

Really, this ain't that hard.

After you get nice clean fluid from all the bleeders...have changed the engine oil....the fuel filter.....used tie wraps to rehang all those cheezy little plastic gizmos which supposedly hold the wires and fuel lines and stuff...shot some aerosol undercoat on the rusty stuff...took a gander at the goings on.....etc...

Grab a 10mm socket, a mess of extensions, a ratchet handle and your pick of adapters.

Slowly and gently, go around and tighten all of the valve cover bolts. Yes, this is considered heresy. Just go slow, be deliberate and tighten all the damn bolts. Use your head and only give each one a tiny twist before moving on to another. Don't just wail on em, and don't do them in line...move around so as not to ruin the cover. You're wrenching on aluminum...not iron or unobtanium, so don't get all Cro Mag. Tighter, but not so damn tight that you ruin the threads.

If you are lucky (as I was), this will stanch the flow of oil and your problem is gone. Of course this may NOT work, but it did for me. I did this three years and 80,000 miles ago as opposed to the huge and heinous job of total gasket replacement. My leaks are gone.

Your results may not be as good as mine, but this technique is FREE and if it fails, tear into it another day or pay someone to do it. Shoot some aerosol engine degreaser all over the drips and rinse with a hose when done. This will help you determine if your efforts were fruitful.

Clean the batt terminals while you have the hood up and are dirty. Close hood and replace wiper blades. Crack another beer.

Call around and find a shop which uses the BG transmission flush machine. Have them run the machine on your car. They will use synthetic trans fluid during the job. Not too shabby. Have them change the rear end fluid at the same time. You brought them two qts of M1 right?? This job is too messy, and the car cannot be jacked up enough at home. Let them earn a buck.

Find another good shop and have them rehab your front end. Shocks, mounts, bushings, tension rods.....the works. Pricey as hell, but you saved about a grand by doing all the other crap yourself and your car will amaze you when you this work is done.

[OwnerCS]

Are you located in TX?

[BadQ45t]

First off, the 97' wasn't 105k spark plugs, they came in either in 98 or 99, so you should replace after 50k. Next GET OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP!!! You just don't want a 13 year old car in the dealership with their labor rates. Find a good local guy that is working on Infiniti/Nissans.

Keeping fluids changed is the #1 thing to keep these cars running and avoiding expensive repairs, so I agree with them. I use either Amsoil or Redline, find a mechanic and you will be able to afford alot more then the stealership can do. Tell us where you're located and we can perhaps guide you to a reliable local place. I change my fluids every 2 years since I don't put lots of miles on and I use only best quality synth either Redline or Amsoil.

[texas_ranger]

Thank You guys for all the responses. I'm in the dallas fortworth area- i have been looking for a good mechanic for some time now. Either i find rip-off's or people who dont understand this car... so any help would be great.

Oldmako - your post was funny and informative. Although, if i had a spare car, i would mess around, too much dependency on this one to play around. Can take care of the straightforward stuff.

OwnerCS- Yes i'm in the Dallas Fort Worth Area.

New Jersey - No airbag light on, only ABS off, TCS Slip...

BadQ45t- I got off the dealership as soon as i got the car out.

So looks like for parts, i could go with IoS or infinitipartsUSA.

[OwnerCS]

Thank You guys for all the responses. I'm in the dallas fortworth area- i have been looking for a good mechanic for some time now. Either i find rip-off's or people who dont understand this car... so any help would be great.

Oldmako - your post was funny and informative. Although, if i had a spare car, i would mess around, too much dependency on this one to play around. Can take care of the straightforward stuff.

OwnerCS- Yes i'm in the Dallas Fort Worth Area.

New Jersey - No airbag light on, only ABS off, TCS Slip...

BadQ45t- I got off the dealership as soon as i got the car out.

So looks like for parts, i could go with IoS or infinitipartsUSA.

If you're in Tarrant County I can tell you where NOT to take it.. But I don't think you
would from your posts thus far.. :-)

We've got a couple of members in the DFW area though I haven't seen them online in some days. I've got a couple of buds in in the area that I can check with also..

My 91 spent most of its life around Tarrant Co..

[texas_ranger]

As a matter of fact do live in tarrant county. Which place should I be avoiding....

Appreciate if you could let me know a good shop to get repairs done ...

[BadQ45t]

And go with Infiniti of Scotsdale, but call them (don't order on-line) and make sure your very clear in what you want exactly and note exactly what they are sending.

[S13xCrazy]

[quote="BadQ45t"]First off, the 97' wasn't 105k spark plugs, they came in either in 98 or 99, so you should replace after 50k. Next GET OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP!!! You just don't want a 13 year old car in the dealership with their labor rates. Find a good local guy that is working on Infiniti/Nissans.
quote]

I used to always say this too, however I have found that the local International Infiniti dealerships have been AWESOME to work with.
And yes, I can work on cars. I have built multiple turbo engines, torn cars apart, done engines swaps, etc. but I still find it convenient to bring our infinitis in to the dealer for service. Hell, I sell performance parts for a living.

Oil changes run $65 dollars...but it is Mobil 1 Synthetic....It costs me only $15-20 less than that to DO IT MYSELF. Plus, they ALWAYS vacuum and wash my car before it is given back to me, AND I get a loaner car while mine is in for service. How the hell can you beat that?

Price it out and compare your headache versus having it DONE RIGHT. The dealership is usually not far off or unreasonable. Plus, dealerships use geniune parts, you don't have to worry about getting garbage parts.

Compare a dealership battery versus a Walmart, Auto Zone, Napa, or any other battery once. I refuse to buy anything else now. dealership batteries last me 6-8 years, anything else lats me TWO.

Does this mean EVERYTHING I have done to my car will be at the dealership? Nope, but I always weigh out my options first!!!