1997 q45 alarm problem. (other probs too, if you can help)

[New Jersey]

ok, so ive had this car for 3 years and have dealt with several problems already and have brand new ones to deal with now.
so, i went to start my car yesterday and couldnt even open the door with the fob. no power at all.
the battery is less than a year old, ive had no problems with it, and i didnt leave the headlights on or anything.
so, i try and jump it later with my brother's jeep and as soon as the juice is hooked up the alarm sounds loudly and all lights are flashing.
as annoying as it was with the alarm sounding i was still able to start the car no problem though this didnt stop the alarm from sounding.
i attempted to disable the alarm using the key fob and it didnt work.
with the car running i then disconnected the jumper cables it was dead immediately. dead battery i assume???
anyone had this problem? solutions?

ive been searching this forum and reading random threads for hours btw. tons of interesting stuff here!
anybody make aftermarket ECUs for Y33s? i would love to burn 87 octane instead of the 93 i have to pay for now.

i also have my airbag light flashing. its a steady neverending flash and its way annoying. i dont have the abaility to insoect every sensor and harness and was hoping there's a "typical culprit" for this problem on this generation of Qs.

also have the abs/tcs/whatever lights all on on the left side of the cluster. steady on. car runs fine with no abs or traction control working. to be honest the lights being on concerns more than the lack of abs or traction control. is this likely the abs computer?

i dont have a consult tool or factory service manual nor am i an expert mechanic.

thanks for any help or insights offered.

im going to take out the battery and attempt to charge it outside the car and go from there.

[Q451990]

to NICO!

Your first problem could be a dead battery... A quick test to to check it with a volt meter. Should be somewhere around 12VDC with the car off, drop a little during starting - maybe to 11 or 11.5 volts, and jump to around 14VDC at idle after the car is running. Below 12VDC at rest or a big drop during starting indicates a bad or discharged battery. If you don't get the 14V at idle, you're probably looking at a bad alternator. Also, be sure to check your battery cables to make sure they're tight and corrosion free.

On the other issues, check out the factory service manual for the '98 here. www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ The last time I checked the '97 manual was incomplete, but the '98 is essentially the same car.

I believe your alternator was part of a recall, so if that turns out to be your problem - you might check with a dealership to see if you're lucky enough for it to have not been replaced yet.

Heath

[New Jersey]

thanks for the reply.
my alternator is fine and has charged the car just fine the entire time ive owned it. (parked the car sunday night no prob. wouldnt start the following morning)
i already said i believe the battery is dead, but batteries dont kill themselves and this alarm problem is bigger to me
thanks for the fsm link, but i am not a factory mechanic.
if i could drive the car to a mechanic i would, but im sorta stuck here unless i want to have it towed at my cost.
i like the car a lot and its in good shape mechanically aside ffrom all these s*** electrical issues.
ive posted here before btw, but couldnt remember my username/pass

[New Jersey]

so put in the charged battery and alarm went off.
i hit the unlock button on the fob this time and the alarm went off and the car can start fine now
after turning it off i heard noise from the abs pump
pulled that fuse and the noise went away
fixed enough for now, but i guess im gonna look for an abs computer now

[tfvesquire]

so put in the charged battery and alarm went off.
i hit the unlock button on the fob this time and the alarm went off and the car can start fine now
after turning it off i heard noise from the abs pump
pulled that fuse and the noise went away
fixed enough for now, but i guess im gonna look for an abs computer now

Whoa. Before you starting wasting your hard earned (or stolen) money on an ABS pump/computer, you need to do some more diagnosis first. There are several other sensors that can set off the TCS light in the dash. One easy one to check is whether any of the abs sensors mounted in each spindle assembly has been unplugged during a repair or has a damaged wiring harness or magnet. The ABS pump should make some noise to alert it is functioning and as far as I know, these don't go out too often. Start there and do a little DIY investigating. It will lessen the pinch in your wallet you'll feel after shelling out $$ for a new replacement or used pump only to have the same symptoms/result.

The airbag flashing light is another story. Once again, there are several write ups on resetting the flashing light that may work for you in the slim chance you car's airbags were not deployed in the past. You have to find out as much about your car's history before you are able to cure its current issues. Be ready to learn more about this car than you ever cared to unless you have lots of $$ you don't mind giving to the dealer to fix what you might be to fix yourself.

Good luck on your new purchase. There are many members who will try and help you out if they can, but you have to do your homework first.

Ted

[New Jersey]

ummm the light wasnt on for the first couple years i owned the car and i never deployed the airbags. link to a reset procedure?
the pump continued to make noise well after the car was off.
i found an abs computer on ebay for $54 shipped and purchased before reading this. i'm inclined to think it's the cause, but we'll see next week.
i genuinely appreciate your help here.

[New Jersey]

this?

Open driver's side door and locate the Door Switch (close to the bottom of the door frame)
-Turn Ignition to ON and then press Door Switch for 5 times or more within 7seconds.
-Turn Ignition Switch to OFF then back to ON and press DS 5 times or more within 7 seconds.
-Turn Ignition OFF for at least 1 second, back to ON and then start the car.
-Repeat steps above as necessary until the Air Bag light resets. If the problem persisted, there is a hard fault stored in the control module that only the dealership or properly equipped shops can fix.

[Lokim]

If the ABS is running after the car is turned off, the likely culprit is the ABS relay located in the box adjacent to the ABS pump. $20 part from IOS. Fixed my identical problem...

[New Jersey]

If the ABS is running after the car is turned off, the likely culprit is the ABS relay located in the box adjacent to the ABS pump. $20 part from IOS. Fixed my identical problem...

i will check that out as well

[mrpeeb240]

The procedure you posted with doorswitch worked for me after I unplugged a yellow connector like a fool while fixing my hvac. haha im lucky I didnt set off my airbag in my face, lesson learned for me

Brent

[elwesso]

Yeah its really common for the air bag diagnosis to be tripped, and unplugging the battery or anything wont turn it off...

I second the ABS relay, thats a pretty common problem with many nissans, IMO its worth the $20 risk, especially since everything else in ABS system is expensive...

So are you having any more issues with the alarm? BTW if that ever does it again, unlocking and locking with the key in the drivers door usually shuts it up.

[New Jersey]

part no. anybody?????

[New Jersey]

part no. anybody?????

anybody??

[elwesso]

just call up infiniti of scottsdale, info is in my sig....

[New Jersey]

i ordered the relay. i'll update as to whether or not it fixes my problem.
that airbag light reset procedure however does not work.
anyone ever figure out any other way to clear this light/code?

[New Jersey]

so, it wasn't the abs relay.

im going to try the abs computer next. anyone know where it's located in the car??