1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Post by **Steevano101** » Sat Jul 29, 2023 7:14 am

My 1997 Pathfinder starts fine cold and runs great for a couple miles then loses power and dies. If you try to start it immediately it will start and die but if tou wait a minute it will start and run fine but only for half or less than it did at first. It throws a P0300 code.

Post by **mdmellott** » Sat Jul 29, 2023 7:59 am

There is a long list of possible causes indicated for a random multiple misfires trouble code. Check out page EC-191 of the Nissan service manual for those details. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 7%2Fec.pdf
A very common cause is a fuel delivery issue, such as a weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or faulty fuel pressure regulator operation due to a vacuum leak or functional defect in the regulator. Another common cause is spark plugs that are no longer working well, distributor cap and rotor that are worn out, or spark plug wires that are worn out and losing adequate contact to the spark plugs. The service manual can walk you through all the various checks and tests for all the possibilities.

Post by **macgiver** » Sat Jul 29, 2023 9:10 pm

One test is an inline fuel press. gauge on a 'T' with long enough hose going to gauge , like 5' in order to Ducy Tape to your windshield , NOW you have a continuous 'visual' of pressure WHILE YOU DRIVE

Of course it's IF you can-do , and not totally out of the question.

Post by **Steevano101** » Sun Jul 30, 2023 4:21 pm

Thanks, I'll start there.

Post by **Steevano101** » Sun Aug 06, 2023 2:55 pm

Put on new spark plugs, cap and rotor then ran it for 15 minutes (5 minutes@3000rpm) and ran great. Drove it a mile and died. After 30 seconds fired it up and drove home? Going to try fuel pressure. test now.

Post by **Steevano101** » Sun Aug 06, 2023 6:44 pm

I just noticed the hose going to the I believe PCV on the pass side valve cover is collapsed, could that be the issue?

Post by **macgiver** » Sun Aug 06, 2023 6:50 pm

If it's easier than 'cutting in' a fuel gauge , yes . AND sounds like a 'sound' maintenance' thing TO DO .......so......replace that hose ,ya ?
.................................otherwise get Jim Dandy to the rescue , Go Jim Dandy ....GO !

Post by **Steevano101** » Mon Aug 07, 2023 3:31 pm

Replaced the hose and drove it with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up. A mile down the road fuel pressure started dropping from 42 until it died. I could put it in neutral while still rolling and start it back up and fuel pressure would go back up to 42 and shortly start dropping again. I'm going to replace the filter and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't, does that mean the new fuel pump is bad or could it be the fuel pressure reg?

Post by **macgiver** » Mon Aug 07, 2023 4:02 pm

A sketchy f/pump relay , so cheap ,SO EASY , like $38 'out the door' @ DEALER , goto dealer please if deciding this as next step ! Cause Sketchy contacts can BEGIN to get engine vibes AS YOU BEGIN to DRIVE ,especially very loud and rough roads.

Here's the deal : got a very old car .....many mi , do you know or can you remember when you've changed f/pump relay?
I was baffled ( I's a electrician Uncle Jed

) AND my A-zone f/pump RELAY (China) lasted ONLY 2 1/2 YEARS !
You , probly MAY not want to do a tedious , messy , dangerous (relatively ) gas filter , heat , clips and other things WILL BBREAK on your old car ! ......?

So.....how about you put in that NEW DEALER RELAY FROM JAPAN !!! First .......assess situation , then goto new f/FILTER next .
Bet you $20 , IF'n you do BOTH...................you'll be out o' the F'n woods ....right ??

p.s. a born salesman I am

Post by **Steevano101** » Mon Aug 07, 2023 7:31 pm

I bought the filter before I saw your post. Anyway it made no difference with new filter but when I pinched the return line to see if maybe the fuel pressure reg valve might be sticking open, the fuel pressure jumped to 70 plus and blew the hose off... Might be fair to assume the pump works ok...lol. Should I replace the relay or the regulator? It is also throwing a P1444 code now.

Post by **macgiver** » Mon Aug 07, 2023 7:47 pm

Yes, yes ,yes to relay ,in your case , my opinion that would rule out 95% electrical . Regulator yes too .....BUT DO THEM SEPARATE.........this IS one of the cases of ONE STEP AT A TIME - assess the merits of ONE STEP AT A TIME !
Probly you'll get THE results you desire / need by DOING BOTH , in tat order .........ya?

p.s. I kinda figured , your descriptions ,etc. that a filter probly DON'T act like that there problem observations of yours.

Relay is a kinda a 'must' first , was definitely my philosophy due to f/p relay waaaaaaaaay-low & inside lower L. kick panel (TCM / PS-module in front !)

One down.....one to go ..high & outside............strike three and yuuuuuuuur OUT ! so sorry

Post by **mdmellott** » Mon Aug 07, 2023 8:50 pm

Steevano101 wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 07, 2023 7:31 pm
... when I pinched the return line to see if maybe the fuel pressure reg valve might be sticking open, the fuel pressure jumped to 70 plus and blew the hose off... Might be fair to assume the pump works ok...lol. Should I replace the relay or the regulator? It is also throwing a P1444 code now.

Could be a relay issue but since you have the fuel pressure test gauge handy you should do all the pressure tests to be sure of what is suspect, according to the test results. In my Haynes Repair Manual, there is a complete write up on what to do so I copied a picture of that page and pasted it here rather than write out the whole thing on this post. For specification reference, the fuel system pressure with the engine idling should be 34psi. With the Key On, engine Off, the fuel system pressure should be 43psi.

If you were reading 42psi with the engine idling, your regulator may be shot. (check out step 9a in the attached page for detailed instruction) Follow all the steps in this write up to test for a leaky in-tank check valve, leaky injector(s), defective regulator, defective pump. I hope this helps.

Post by **mdmellott** » Tue Aug 08, 2023 7:55 am

Steevano101 wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 07, 2023 7:31 pm
It is also throwing a P1444 code now.

As for this DTC; It may have been caused when you pinched off the fuel return line and over pressurized the system. To be sure, an inspection can be made of the purge control valve so you know it is functioning as it should. Starting on page EC-387 of the factory service manual for the 1998 Pathfinder, instructions for inspection will be found. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 8%2Fec.pdf

Your post subject indicates a 1997 Pathfinder but your profile indicates you have a 1998 Pathfinder. I have to assume your profile is correct because the P1444 DTC is not indicated in the FSM for the 1997 but it is for the 1998.

Post by **Steevano101** » Tue Aug 08, 2023 4:02 pm

With the key on, engine off it fuel pressure is 44-45 - Running at idle it's 34-36 and it holds at that after it's turned off. Am I going to have to remove the plenum to change the fuel pressure reg?

Post by **mdmellott** » Tue Aug 08, 2023 5:31 pm

Steevano101 wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 08, 2023 4:02 pm
With the key on, engine off it fuel pressure is 44-45 - Running at idle it's 34-36 and it holds at that after it's turned off. Am I going to have to remove the plenum to change the fuel pressure reg?

Those pressures are normal. Locate the vacuum hose from the regulator, to where it plugs into the intake manifold. While the engine is running, unplug the line from the manifold and plug-up the nipple in the manifold when you remove the hose. The fuel pressure should rise up to the 44-45 reading you are getting in the Key On/Engine Off test. If it does, then your pressure tests appear to all be normal, given you also stated the pressure holds when you turn it off, so nothing is leaking.

You mentioned that your pressure was at 42psi while driving and then you would see it drop until it died. I think macgiver is probably spot on with pointing you to replacing the fuel pump relay. You don't want to deal with your regulator if you don't have to. Is is buried under your upper intake manifold so that would have to be removed, and gasket replaced when reinstalled, just to get at the regulator.

Post by **macgiver** » Tue Aug 08, 2023 8:04 pm

Remove a PLENUM ....mdmellott pretty much right that i'ts getting Hi-press (no vac? ) AND low -press ( w/ vac ?) .
All this , AND it HOLDS .....................not Fuel pump , reg. , or lines etc. LOOKS LIKE electrical !!

I'll leave you with this please try a Proper DEALER relay . BUT some cars(my J30) has a kind of accumulator @ fuel rail to smooth pump pulses , I know little to nothing , never messed with those - never had problem with it so I wouldn't know the typical problems / havoc IF ANY that " little accumulator " can cause (wish I could remember name got concussion recently) a damper ?

Only question is , what is it " over the hill , and through the woods "?? Too difficult to get to , or do you have some nother reason to pull a Plemum...??

Just honestly what is the logic or reasoning ..................the plan , if you will - what procedures (in full) would you be attempting? With due respect................................RESPECT !!!

Post by **mdmellott** » Tue Aug 08, 2023 8:15 pm

Here's a thought. Check out the pics below of my '02 Pathfinder relays. The '98 may be the same or similar. Look at the relay box cover and note the fuel pump relay position and a non-essential front fog light relay. All of these blue relays are the same relay. Pull the fog relay and fuel relay and switch positions. Be careful not to over-flex the relay retainer clip. They break easily when they are old.

Post by **macgiver** » Tue Aug 08, 2023 8:20 pm

Exactly pick a similar , differently located relay in your " box " - preferably one not in constant use ( ie, LIKE a seat ctrl relays hardly used ,ya know ....do like that ,ya). Must say mdmellott's relays are clean as whisle outside , probly also AS GOOD inside

p.s One reason my cheap A-zone relay weak , broke too soon , they gave me a brown one , and the REAL DEALER relay was sposed to be green ( I even mistakenly called it brown in a prev. post

) . I believe the difference is current rating , contact area , a better inrush 'withstand' upon being energized babda bada bada .The Green , dealer relay for me , and hopefully for you the F'n CORRECT RELAY IS AT YOUR LOCAL DEALER !!!

Remember......$38 give or take out da door.

Post by **macgiver** » Tue Aug 08, 2023 9:46 pm

Like Columbo...one more thing......the wire @ relay coil coming from ECM , a resistance check of the ckt (wire) end to end can be VERY revealing of poor conn. @ relay coil or conn. @ ECM OR ANY "SUPER MULTIPLE JUNCTION " or intermediate plugged-in conn."s may be pitted/rusted , loosened , chem corrosion etc. Very, Very , VERY rarely is just that one function of ECM (5 sec. pause w/key AND fully on during cranking and "run" ) , for just THAT single wired function go bad .......UNLESS YOU FRIED IT PREVIOUSLY ? ?

...

p.s. ECM's are ACTUALLY VERY TOUGH , they will have ' buffers ' to virtually ALL contacts , meaning there's enough impedance to prevent practically 12V hitting even some , they ARE actually protected kind of like the EMP protection MIL-spec to survive a relatively close nuke , my uncle did "reliability for M.I.C. Co. and they make barriers and ckt to take the hit sooner / first , sometime to take multiple EMP's due to cascading protective ckt's such as these ! NASA & like Gen Dynamics have 'returned' much of these measures to private sector cars & planes and such for ordinary problems , lightning for example with modern TVS's (Transient Voltage Suppressors , et al , NOT A SILENCER

)

Post by **Steevano101** » Wed Aug 09, 2023 4:11 pm

Have to laugh (no disrespect to you), MacGiver was a
F-ing Jerkoff, or should I say Richard Dean Anderson was. I was an Organizer and Driver in the 1986 Toyota Olympus World Championship Rally in Olympia, WA. Richard Dean ( MacGiver) was going to be a celebrity pre-sweep driver. He was supposed to drive each stage 15 minutes before the first car out in a highly modified MR2 to alert spectators racing was about to start. I was asked to take him up in the woods and spend a day teaching him a few things to help him drive fast and safely. Well Mr Richard said Nope, there was nothing a 21 year old kid could teach him and refused. So on race day Richard proceeded to crash and burn, broke a leg and possibly more, caught a private ride to a local hospital and a private flight back to Hollywood without saying a word to anyone... Still laugh when I think about that arrogant a**...roflmfao

Post by **Steevano101** » Wed Aug 09, 2023 4:14 pm

Have to laugh (no disrespect to you), MacGiver was a
F-ing Jerkoff, or should I say Richard Dean Anderson was. I was an Organizer and Driver in the 1986 Toyota Olympus World Championship Rally in Olympia, WA. Richard Dean ( MacGiver) was going to be a celebrity pre-sweep driver. He was supposed to drive each stage 15 minutes before the first car out in a highly modified MR2 to alert spectators racing was about to start. I was asked to take him up in the woods and spend a day teaching him a few things to help him drive fast and safely. Well Mr Richard said Nope, there was nothing a 21 year old kid could teach him and refused. So on race day Richard proceeded to crash and burn, broke a leg and possibly more, caught a private ride to a local hospital and a private flight back to Hollywood without saying a word to anyone... Still laugh when I think about that arrogant a**...roflmfao

Post by **Steevano101** » Wed Aug 09, 2023 5:06 pm

Post by **Steevano101** » Wed Aug 09, 2023 5:11 pm

Anyway, when it starts to lose fuel pressure, if I just let it idle as the car slows it will build up pressure again and in 10-15 seconds keep going again. If you keep on the throttle though it will slowly die.

Post by **mdmellott** » Wed Aug 09, 2023 7:29 pm

Steevano101 wrote: ↑
Wed Aug 09, 2023 5:11 pm
Anyway, when it starts to lose fuel pressure, if I just let it idle as the car slows it will build up pressure again and in 10-15 seconds keep going again. If you keep on the throttle though it will slowly die.

That is a regulator problem. At idle, the regulator sends most fuel delivery back to the fuel tank. When accelerating, the regulator should restrict the flow back to the tank so that the system maintains pressure for high fuel demand while accelerating. Your regulator may be stuck open, sending most of the fuel delivery back to the tank at all times, not allowing enough fuel to be used when it's needed.

Did step 8 of the pressure test pass or fail?

Post by **Steevano101** » Wed Aug 09, 2023 11:32 pm

If that's where you pull the vacuum line, No.

Post by **macgiver** » Thu Aug 10, 2023 11:21 am

Yes , mdmellott focus on regulator , could slowly be" screwing up " upon operation - short matter of time = no pressure, AND I'Ve heard of DEBRIS in RAIL " dancing in the dark " , randomly F' ing up the CLOSURE of said regulator .........IF your working and have a ' moment of open ended rail ' ( like you've removed the reg,) PURGE RAIL CLEAN ! Gas= dangerous so you may find your own safe way if you feel crap in there - I don't know your car , now.

Smokey The Bear says " DAH......Only YOU can prevent auto fires , DA DAh hu DA huhh "

Post by **VStar650CL** » Thu Aug 10, 2023 11:31 am

macgiver wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 10, 2023 11:21 am
Smokey The Bear says " DAH......Only YOU can prevent auto fires

Unless you're driving a Tesla or an 80's Jaguar. Then no one can prevent auto fires.

Post by **macgiver** » Thu Aug 10, 2023 11:35 am

Aaaaaah new movie comes out " Smokey and the Jag " !

Post by **VStar650CL** » Thu Aug 10, 2023 11:55 am

Post by **macgiver** » Thu Aug 10, 2023 12:16 pm

Vstar................at it again ! ....huh................now THAT SACRES ME !

gotta stop stealing things off of Funk & Wagnall's front porch.............

.............now IS THAT HERMETICALLY SEALED ?

1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

Re: 1997 Pathfinder dies after a couple miles..

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