1997 Nissan pathfinder panhard bar

[A1218]

I replaced the rear control arms on the pathfinder a few weeks ago with a set of Moogs. Shocks were replaced about 2 yrs ago (kyb excel gas) and so were the coils and sway bar end links (also Moog). When I replaced the control arms I also changed the sway bar bushing to poly. Everything is good, however I still feel a slight unsteadiness in the rear on the highway and it seems like a lateral sway when hitting dips or bumps. Could it be the panhard bar? Also, will a panhard bar for a 1999-2004 pathfinder work on the 1997 pathfinder? They have a slightly different part number. Thanks

[mdmellott]

Could it be the panhard bar? Also, will a panhard bar for a 1999-2004 pathfinder work on the 1997 pathfinder? They have a slightly different part number.

Yep. The Panhard rod bushings get worn out just like the control arm bushings. The part numbers are different because the parts are different. They may be slightly different lengths and they might mount up a bit different as well. For around $50, and borrowing a bushing press from an AutoZone or O'Reilly parts store, purchasing a set of replacement OEM bushings is a better option than forking over almost $300 for a new Panhard rod.

I replaced my Panhard rod bushings a few years back. That took the sway out of the back end very nicely.

[A1218]

Could it be the panhard bar? Also, will a panhard bar for a 1999-2004 pathfinder work on the 1997 pathfinder? They have a slightly different part number.

Yep. The Panhard rod bushings get worn out just like the control arm bushings. The part numbers are different because the parts are different. They may be slightly different lengths and they might mount up a bit different as well. For around $50, and borrowing a bushing press from an AutoZone or O'Reilly parts store, purchasing a set of replacement OEM bushings is a better option than forking over almost $300 for a new Panhard rod.

I replaced my Panhard rod bushings a few years back. That took the sway out of the back end very nicely.

So I replaced all of the bushings in the 4 trailing links with polyurethane yesterday and it tightened up the rear very nicely on the highway. However, I put a pry bar to the panhard bar and the bushings in it are toast. Did you replace the panhard bushings on your own, and if so how difficult was the process? Was it difficult to line up the bolt holes to reinstall the bar? I will probably replace the bushings in these with poly as well.

[mdmellott]

Removing and replacing the bushings in the Panhard rod is no different than doing this on the trailing arms. The 51535-0W000 bushing was a bit different replacing it because there is no metal sleeve on the OD of that bushing. However, pressing it in was not difficult. It was just a bit spongy, pressing it in because there is no hard body to press against. Getting the bolt holes lined up is way easier to do than on the trailing arms. I removed the rod, replaced the bushings, and reinstalled it in about two hours, taking my time.

[A1218]

Removing and replacing the bushings in the Panhard rod is no different than doing this on the trailing arms. The 51535-0W000 bushing was a bit different replacing it because there is no metal sleeve on the OD of that bushing. However, pressing it in was not difficult. It was just a bit spongy, pressing it in because there is no hard body to press against. Getting the bolt holes lined up is way easier to do than on the trailing arms. I removed the rod, replaced the bushings, and reinstalled it in about two hours, taking my time.

Thanks! I was thinking of removing this bar with the vehicle on the ground so the diff stays in line to allow easier bolt alignment. Is this a good idea or no?

[mdmellott]

Thanks! I was thinking of removing this bar with the vehicle on the ground so the diff stays in line to allow easier bolt alignment. Is this a good idea or no?

On the ground, or with jack stands under each end of the axle/differential assembly, works fine. Before tightening the bolts, normal ride height, with wheels on the ground, or simulated normal ride height, with jack stands under the axle assembly, is a must. I used jack stands so I had more room to work, but I lowered it the ground before I tightened the bolts.