1997 Maxima will not crank

[niven76]

Sorry this is so long. I am hoping that by posting everything it may trigger with someone.

I have a 1997 Maxima SE with an automatic transmission and am having problems starting it. It has the factory installed anti-theft system as well as an after market remote starter and lock system (Compustar CM4200 Controller and 1WFM4R One-Way FM Remote).

The first time my wife came home from work in the morning and I went to start it about an hour later. All I heard were the clicks of the relays in the cabin of the car and I thought the battery was dead (only about a month old). I hooked up a battery charger with a jump start feature and it started after a few minutes.

About a month later, same scenario except this time it would not start with the battery charger. I tried starting in neutral then all gears. I thought it was the starter so I took it out and had it tested and it was fine. I put the starter back in and was able to bypass the ignition by running a wire from the positive battery terminal to the large post on the starter and a wire from negative terminal to the casing of the starter and it turned over. Still would not start with the key. Replaced the starter relay, no luck. Replaced the ignition, no luck. I tried switching the anti-theft relays and nothing. I decided to put everything back together just in case the unconnected wires from air intake were causing any problems. The car started.

After this I replaced the water pump and had no problems starting it after I completed the project.

The third time, about 3 weeks later, the car had been off for about 4 hours. It stalled when I tried to start it the first time and stalled the second time. The third time, nothing, just the clicks of the relays. I kept trying for a few minutes with no success. I got out of my car and locked it with the key fob and just thought to try starting it one more time with the fob and it started.

A few days later, I started the car in the morning and went to get new tires. The car had been turned off for about 5 minutes when the tire guy tried to start it and nothing. I fiddled around with it for a while and was playing with the fob and all of a sudden the doors unlocked. I do not think I pushed the unlock button because I was so surprised. The car started after that.

The next day (today) I drove to work, and at lunch time went to a store. When I came out it would not start and is now in my garage with the battery cables unhooked hoping that wll work. I had a Compustar installer come out and he bypassed the the Compustar controller and it still did not work. I thought it was the factory security system but I verified the system activates and when triggered will shut off when I unlock the doors and trunk with the key.

I am at a loss. In the morning I am going to try to turn the starter by running the power directly from battery to rule out the starter. I will also test the anti-theft relays as well.

If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. I will post if I find the solution.

[loystock]

Welcome to NICO.

You may have a problem with your starting circuit (Compustar, etc), starter motor, or battery/connectors. Since you can hear the clicking sound of a relay during starting, then it's most likely poor battery connection or failing starter solenoid. Let's start with the simple one - disconnect the battery connectors and clean the battery poles and connectors with steel brush. Reconnect and if applicable, apply battery terminal protectant (spray).

Since you have done R&R of the starter already, then you know that the starter has a battery connector to the Starter Motor via the Starter Solenoid and a smaller single-wire connector from the Ignition Switch and related relays to the Starter Solenoid. In order to get 12VDC to the Starter Solenoid, the Ignition Switch must be in START position, the Theft Relay is not energized (no starter interrupt) and the Inhibitor Relay is energized (gear in Park/Neutral).

Disconnect the single-wire connector and connect a Voltmeter (+) to the Ignition side of the connector and the (-) to the negative battery terminal or the engine frame. Set Ignition Switch to START and verify you have 12VDC. If starting voltage is available, you may have a malfunctioning starter solenoid and/or sticky plunger in the starter motor.

If there is no 12VDC available, the problem could be with the Compustar Remote Starter, Nissan Theft Warning System/Relay, Inhibitor Relay/Contacts, the Start Inhibitor Switch (Park/Neutral position) or the Ignition Switch (very unlikely since you already replaced it).

I'm assuming you have an automatic transmission. I'm not sure how the Compustar is actually wired but it's probably in parallel with the Ignition Switch. To further isolate the problem you can remove the Inhibitor Relay (E56) and check the pins on the receptacle: -With the Ignition Switch in START position, there must be 12VDC on pin #6 (B/W wire, from Battery via fuse and ignition switch). -With Ignition Switch at ON or START, there must be 12VDC on pin #1 (from Theft Warning Relay)-If the Inhibitor Switch is in either Park or Neutral, pin #2 must be connected to GROUND.

You can also check if the relay is operational or not.

[niven76]

Thanks for the hints loystock. I have done a decent amount of mechanical work on cars, but not much to do with electrical.

I cleaned the battery terminals and no luck so I tried turning the starter by direct wiring it from the battery and no luck. I pulled it out and took it down to Autozone to have it tested and it worked okay so I put it back in and hooked up a remote starter switch to it and the starter would turn but not engage the flywheel. I turned the ignition key and the car started so I turned it off and tried it again and it would not start. The remote start switch would not work either. I am thinking a flaky starter now. Any thoughts?

[niven76]

Just after my last post it dawned on me to tap on the starter as I try to start it and that did it. Time for a new starter. Thanks for your help.

[loystock]

You can buy a new starter or try overhauling the starter itself. You may have a gummed up/sticky starter. Since you are mechanically inclined, then all you have to do is to put some alignment marks prior to dis-assembly so you know how to put them back together. Only a few screws are involved.

The front side is purely mechanical (cogged wheel and planetary gears) which needs cleaning (using engine degreaser/brake parts cleaner). After thorough cleaning, use white lithium grease to lubricate these parts. The rear end is where the starter solenoid, starter motor rotor and stator are located. You need to apply a liberal amount of contact cleaner on the rotor and stator to remove the dirt around them.

After reassembly, you can test the starter operation. provided you have some jumper wires/test clips. Make sure the starter is secured since it will move during testing. To test the starter solenoid, connect the battery (+) side to the single wire connector of the starter and battery (-) to the starter frame. The cogged wheel should extend. Repeat this test several times to verify starter solenoid and plunger operation. To test the entire starter operation, you need a 3rd jumper wire in addition to the other 2 test wires. Connect the 3rd test cable to the battery (+) and the other end to the starter solenoid terminal (where the battery is normally connected). Again ensure the starter is secured as during this test, it will definitely 'jump' if not secured. With all 3 wires connected, the starter motor should extend and turn.

I have 2 I30s (similar to 4th Gen Maxima) and in both cases of starting problems, the starter only needs cleaning and lubrication.

Here is the link to Maxima/I30/I35 FAQ. You can learn a lot of information about maintenance and repair of you car from those articles.

zerothread/219453

[lightsout]

check the MAF connection while your poking around!try putting the alarm in valet mode to see if it starts on a regular basis by doing that!is the '97 equipt with a chip in the key? if so, you may wantto get a spare made, or try using your spare for a while!

that's all I've got think'n so far :-)

[niven76]

I replaced the starter on Saturday and everything worked fine Saturday and Sunday. I went to start my car this morning (Monday) and nothing, just the click of relays and the dash lights. I did not have time to tap on the starter to see if that was the problem but will try it when I get home tonight. It is hard to believe the new starter is bad.

One thing in common is that every time except once the car has been warmed up then shut off anywhere from 15 minutes to a couple of hours.

Any suggestions on what may be the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[loystock]

As in my 1st response, disconnect the single-wire connector to the starter solenoid and check for presence of 12VDC (battery voltage) with the Ignition Switch in START. If 12VDC is present, starter is bad. If there is no 12VDC, then you have problem with switches/relay/wiring.

Here's the EL (Electrical System) chapter of the 97 Maxima to help you with the diagnostic. You need a multimeter for testing.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1997/EL.pdf