1997 Hardbody Timing

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
94 Gasfinder
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:25 pm
Car: 1994 Pathfinder SE 4x4 (sold)
1997 D21 Hardbody 4x4

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I've been reading around and I've come to the conclusion that I need to change my timing tensioner and guide since I'm getting a clearly audible rattling/squelching for the first couple seconds after starting the motor. My truck (97 D21 4x4 KA24E) has 79k and it seems like its at that range for when they fail.

I'll be doing it myself but I've got a couple of questions about this. I've read that someone changed their water pump and oil pump since they had the motor apart while doing the timing. The water pump I can understand, but should I really be worried about the oil pump? I thought oil pumps are usually good for a long time. Also, Napa has the entire timing kit (cam and crank gears, chain, tensioner and guides) for $135, but if its the guides that wear and make the noise, is there really going to be a lot of wear on the gears and chain? I'll buy everything if I have to but I'd hate to get the kit and see that the gears are mint. I would like to get all the parts I need before I tear it down so my truck is down for as little time as possible. So far I've got this for a list of parts I'm gonna buy:
  • Valve cover gasket
    Timing kit (gears, chain, tensioner, guides)
    Water pump
    Oil pan gasket
Any feedback on what I've got planned so far would be greatly appreciated. I'm the type that likes to have everything planned out and discussed with others before I start a project :biggrin:.


MaximA32

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Unfortunately, I've never done this myself. I'll toss it over to the trucks guys who have a little bit more experience with the vehicle.

mrecoolgar
Posts: 362
Joined: Wed May 28, 2008 5:34 pm
Car: 1990 Hardbody Reg Cab 2WD 2.4 5SP

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I've done two 2.4's so far.
The water pump with gaskets is a good idea.
Fan belts if needed.
The oil pump can be replaced when needed as it bolts to the timing chain housing.
No need to do it now.
The timing chain does not wear or stretch but the guides do break and disappear.
Same with the cam and crank gears, no wear.
Basically the guides are the only item needed.
And do it before the chain wears thru the timing cover thus allowing coolant to enter the oil system.
Yikes!

94 Gasfinder
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:25 pm
Car: 1994 Pathfinder SE 4x4 (sold)
1997 D21 Hardbody 4x4

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Alright thanks a lot. I've heard of people having problems with wearing on the timing cover. Hopefully it isn't worn!

1991Hardbody
Posts: 29
Joined: Wed Apr 06, 2011 1:28 pm
Car: 1991 D21 Hardbody king cab 2wd 2.4L
1997 D21 Hardbody king cab 2wd 2.4L XE
Location: Ontario

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I agree with "mrecoolgar". You only have to change the oil pump if you were having lubrication issues. Also, you may not have any wear on the cover unless one of the guides is broken allowing the chain to hit the cover.
The only other bit of advice I can think to give you is, since your chain isn't broken, line everything up and make your own reference marks on the block, since Nissan NEVER gives you any. I did my chain, and even though the silver links hit the marks, my timing was at 10 degrees ATD. Solution: reset to TDC, put crank at 10 deg BTD , pull oil pump and dist. and set to #1 again.

mrecoolgar
Posts: 362
Joined: Wed May 28, 2008 5:34 pm
Car: 1990 Hardbody Reg Cab 2WD 2.4 5SP

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Glad I wasn't the only one off timing.

Novajoe
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed May 18, 2011 4:48 pm
Car: 97 hardbody xe king cab
08 lancer evolution gsr

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I wouldn't be so quick to dig into the motor. From what I've read the rattling on the first few seconds of startup is due to your oil filter of all things. The OEM nissan filter has a flap in it that keeps the oil from draining out after the engine is shut off. Aftermarket filters like FRAM don't have this flap so the oil drains out and you lose a lot of oil pressure on startup.

I had the same thoughts as you and replaced all my guides and tensioner only to have the same sound after I was done. Switched to OEM nissan filter and haven't had a problem since.

@1991hardbody: Your stock crank drive pulley should have some small unmarked notches in it. Those are timing marks. If you look at your relative service manual it will tell you which notch is which. On mine from left to right is -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20. The notches are pretty small and kinda hard to see, but they're there on the furthest inner lip.

edit: also if you're worried that your guides may actually be broken, then just pull the valve cover for starters. You can look in at your guides, chain and tensioner from there.

Macks96HB
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2011 7:39 pm

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1991Hardbody wrote:I agree with "mrecoolgar". You only have to change the oil pump if you were having lubrication issues. Also, you may not have any wear on the cover unless one of the guides is broken allowing the chain to hit the cover.
The only other bit of advice I can think to give you is, since your chain isn't broken, line everything up and make your own reference marks on the block, since Nissan NEVER gives you any. I did my chain, and even though the silver links hit the marks, my timing was at 10 degrees ATD. Solution: reset to TDC, put crank at 10 deg BTD , pull oil pump and dist. and set to #1 again.

Gents, if I can "jack" this thread for second....

I'm in need of some major advice instruction. I did the timing maintenance and my gut is telling me I have a timing/dizzy/oil pump issue, but about 6 months of trying random stuff, I'm pulling my hair out (and I don't have a lot of hair left).

Please take a peak at my thread and tell me what you think.
96-hardbody-won-t-stay-running-help-please-t537053.html

I've owned my truck since it was delivered at to the dealer when I was 17. I would like to keep it forever, but I need to get it back on the road. Please help


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