1997 Alternator

[fontana dan]

Hello. My 1997 Q45 alternator has suddenly started making an awful noise. It still charges but I need to replace it ASAP.
I see everyone recommends the remanufactured Hitachi LR1110. I'm not sure this is still available, at least not on rockauto. These are my options. Which one is the best?
Or would you rather go with a used original unit from the junkyard? That's what I would like to do, but finding these cars in a junkyard has become a chore, and you can't count on them having original parts.
Either way I'm keeping my original to rebuild it. Where should i source a rebuild kit?
Thanks for your time.

[3Q Jay]

If the awful noise is bearings, I'd just start by replacing those on an otherwise good nissan core. The 2 bearings are used on many things and will not go obsolete anytime soon. Recommend you get NSK Japan bearings if possible, maybe NTN. Be sure to get the proper application rating on the otherwise generic fit bearings. the factory ones had green dust seals, but I can't attest to all green seal being equal.
If you are going to go that route, let me know and I'll go read the actualNSK part number that I have for the Drive end 6303 bearing, and reply back. Not sure if the SRE (slip ring end) bearing is the same for the G50 and FGY33 frames.

[fontana dan]

Thank you Jay. I ordered the Remy reman, I'm going to install ASAP because this car is my daily driver. It hurts because this is the first time it has let me down after almost 2 years of being my only car.
I'm going to keep the Nissan original, take it apart and see what's going on in there. This sound appeared suddenly and is accompanied by a burning smell...I tested the battery voltage and read only 12.8 with engine running on a cold start.

[3Q Jay]

Youre welcome Dan. I am hopeful for all of us that your Remy reman provides success.
Upon listening to your video, I am thinking that it is likely bad diode(s) making that sound. Usually those will cause the alternator to emit a growl or a howl, that isn't directly ties to vibration felt on the alternator case (as a bearing usually will indicate). But it's a video over the web--not a direct observation on my part--meaning this is my best *guess*
So, keeping your nissan core is a good idea. you might start by verifying the diodes.

[fontana dan]

I've got the Remy reman installed and everything is good to go.
You are right on the money, Jay! I've got the old alternator sitting next to me on the desk here. Diode is bad. It spanked the battery in about a day after I last parked the car. The pulley still spins reasonably smooth and quiet.
Just a couple of things to note:
The 2-wire plastic connector disintegrated after I removed it from the alternator.
The unit I removed stamped NISSAN has a sticker indicating it was remanufactured in Mexico. I'm going to gather parts to rebuild it. The hitachi model number is LR1110-707GR. Nissan PN 23100-6P000R.
The Remy reman does not have any Nissan stamping on it.

[98_Q45]

I’ve gone from Napa, to O’Reilly, to warranty. So yes, 3 alternator changes over past couple years. Luckily they are relatively easy to change, and the last time I did it in like 45 minutes.

But it was a nightmare because my connector was broken from the last repair, and I could only get an eBay one. Then somehow I got the wiring mixed up even when labeling the wires, and battery died exiting the highway during a test drive.

If you do aftermarket store alternator: keep the box and your receipt. The longevity have been questionable. However I’m hoping new harness connectors on both my Nissans will cure this issue for good too.

[fontana dan]

I've put about 1500 miles on the car since the repair and it has been holding up perfectly. I still need to get a new connector, I'm kind of worried about that being a source of water intrusion into the unit. The bottom bolt for the alt is a definite pain in the a**. HOW are you supposed to hold the nut in place back there?
At one point since the repair I left the car parked for a week and the battery went flat. Hoping that was just a fluke and not a symptom of a smoked battery or parasitic drain
Also need to get a new diode so I can fix the core I took out.

[VStar650CL]

IIRC that connector is one of these:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/st ... std0/s2536

It's a Standard Motor Parts S2536 repair pigtail, they're all over eBay and Amazon in addition to any parts store that carries SMP.

[98_Q45]

I don’t think that’s the right connector for the alternator, at least not for mine. Only place I could find it was ebay. 4 wire harness, with one wire not used. Same with my Maxima, I ended finding the whole harness connector for $15 (another irritant at how the Maxima/i30 are more aftermarket friendly than the Q lol).

As for the rear bolt, it took a few times for me to figure out a hack. I actually stripped the “holder” that that bolt goes onto, thanks to a friend trying to rush me to install it at night in bad light.

Now what I do, I just super glue a nut to the back of the alternator, which gives just enough to get the bolt on and tighten. Otherwise yes, the lower bolt is tricky, and best to finger tighten it at first, to ensure no resistance.

[VStar650CL]

You could be right, I'd have to look it up and I don't have ASIST right now. Someplace around '95~'97 is where they started to transition from the 2-pin used on the D21 to the 4-pin used on later models, so stuff from that time period is a mixed bag.

[fontana dan]

This is the connector. I believe it is shared with a number of early 2000s Nissans, including the Maxima.

[3Q Jay]

This is the connector. I believe it is shared with a number of early 2000s Nissans, including the Maxima.

Screen Shot 2024-04-15 at 6.56.54 PM.png

yes, Dan- that connector is used on different platforms. on the G50 (at least the kouki's),it's found on the ignitor, the CAS, and on the late95/96 models the MAF.
Would you mind posting the link to that connector? I don't actually know the trade name (i..e hitachi or....). I sourced some a few years back form an "alibaba" type website. Hated that I had to do that, but they did fit fine and have not ad any dissimilar metals issues thus far.

[VStar650CL]

Nissan's connector ID utility only goes back to '11, so I can't tell you the OE p/n for it. I can tell you it's also used by Mitsubishi and Mazda, and there are clones from multiple manufacturers listed all over eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301783157610
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163117966558
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133279285215
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384413424524

[3Q Jay]

thanks VStar

[VStar650CL]