1996 Z NA to TT swap question

[dan4010]

Hey everyone. I'm considering buying my first 300ZX. Its a '96 non turbo in very good shape but has over 150K miles. If I make the decision to buy the car, I'd like to do the TT swap. Now I've done some research on here, and have read a lot of "if you want a TT, buy a TT". Well this particular '96 is in very good shape mechanically and cosmetically, and appears to be a deal I'd be foolish to pass up. My question is this : Is there something about the '96 model that causes compatability issues with jdm and other front clip engines out there? I see lots of websites that list these engines are for 90-95 year models and nothing about '96. Any advice or concerns would be greatly appreciated and will help me make this decision to buy. Thanks.

[marty1mc]

Yea, there are a few things. The 96 is ODBII. It also doesn't have the Variable Valve timing that pre-96 have. Modifications on a 96 are more difficult and you won't be able to purchase an EFI harness for it either (you can find them for 90-95 models). You are better off keeping it an NA (if you buy it) or looking for a 95 and lower tt model. Believe me, the conversion is expensive. My setup is technically in better condition than a clean TT, but I still spent more than I would have for a clean TT.

[dan4010]

Damn. I was afraid of that. What about a bolt on turbo system for the '96 NA motor? Is it out there?

[marty1mc]

Since there was only a couple of hundred 96 models sold, there isn't much out there. I think JWT sells an ECU for the TT 5 spd only, no auto.

[vulcanrush]

Damn. I was afraid of that. What about a bolt on turbo system for the '96 NA motor? Is it out there?

you can't bolt-on turbo's because of the compression of the na-engines. the compression is a little higher, 10.5:1 instead of 8.5:1 (of the tt's)...please correct me if i'm wrong...not boost friendly. not feasible. go for the tt swap if you want to, you can always get cams to address the vtc issue, and you can always get a custom tune.

[dan4010]

I just found a 1996 VG30DETT and transmission (non JDM) for sale online. Say it runs perfectly, what snags would i run into if i did this '96 N/A for a '96 TT swap?

[vulcanrush]

the tt swap question comes up pretty often. you can search tt.net for more information.

where online? how do you know it's non-jdm? please get a compression test to check that the engine is strong.


there are so many other parts for a tt swap, intercooler piping's, upgraded radiator, oil cooler, turbo's, 120k pack...it's not cheap.

[marty1mc]

I just found a 1996 VG30DETT and transmission (non JDM) for sale online. Say it runs perfectly, what snags would i run into if i did this '96 N/A for a '96 TT swap?

96 to 96 swap will hit mostly the same snags that every other swap has.

When I did mine, I hit several. Here are some of the things you will need (based on my swap). This is assuming that the transmission is the same as yours (Auto to auto OR manual to manual)

Parts to make it work:

- Intercoolers and brackets for mounting
- Intercooler piping
- TT intake piping
- accordian pipes from intake to turbos
- boost pipes from turbos to IC piping and IC piping to plenum
- AC condensor (you use your NA condensor fan)
- AC lines - condensor to firewall and back
- Radiator and hoses
- TT radiator shroud (upper, you can use the little lower one from your NA)
- TT fan clutch
- front bumper
- power steering hardline (some need this, some do not, mine did).
- boost controller (TT harness not sold for 96, so you have to use your NA ECU. Boost controller will get around that )
- TT oil cooler, hardlines, hoses, mounting bracket
- bunches of nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers
- TT downpipe, TT cats and midpipes
- TT fuel pump

Other Items that may need attention or should be done:
- turbos? - remember they are 14 yrs old and may be toast or leaking. Time to replace them is when the engine is out.
- 120k kit - essential if you are putting in a new motor.
- valve cover seals, rear main seal, upper plenum gasket - not included in 120k kit.
- knock sensor and harness - This is hard to get to with the motor in, harness goes bad often so at least replace the harness. I did both.
- clutch?
- motor mounts - most likely will need to be replaced as the tend to wear out and tear.
- PCV valves and hoses


Also, you will probably need all kinds of hoses. If you pull the plenum to do the valve cover gaskets, you will likely need water hoses (unless you bypass the throttle bodies), Idle Air hoses, and fuel lines. Fuel line is expensive. Nissan OEM is around $2 and inch (yes, an inch). I used Gates Fuel injection line at around $6/ft. and is rated for 180 psi. I also bought fuel clamps that don't tear into the line like the clamps for water.

If you add all of this up, you are staring at thousands of dollars on top of the motor and transmission. There is more I did that isn't on here that adds to reliability and performance, but significantly drives up the cost.


Additional items I added:
- upgraded turbos - JWT Sport 500's (would recommend Ball bearing turbos if you replace the stock ones. I got these brand new and fairly cheap with no core)
- 300 deg fuel rail/740 cc injectors
- JWT ECU (tuned for 740cc injectors, dual pop, 5 spd, Fed emissions)
- Dual Pop chargers and piping
- Silicone hoses for all air, vacuum, and boost lines (plus SS t-clamps for boost lines) < over $1000!
- Stillen Intercoolers - included in my swap, but needs pointed out as necessary if you upgrade turbos. (not Stillen ones specifically, but upgraded IC's are needed)
- JWT lightened flywheel and clutch
- New OEM rubber lines for all oil and power steering including High pressure line. (Silicone lines that are sold "sweat" oil and transmission fluid used for ps. Don't use Silicone hoses here)
- HKS Turbo Timer - type 1
- 99 Jspec front fascia and paint
- New master and slave cylinder for clutch (mine was weak, so I changed both)
- Energy Suspension Steering rack bushings
- New Alternator and Battery harnesses (EFI harness was new when I got the motor)
- New OEM valve lifters
- New spark plugs
- various cable clamps, ties.


I am sure there is more, but that's all I can think of for now. As you can see, add this up and it's well over $10k. I didn't include things like paint for the parts on the motor or the paint I bought to shoot the engine bay, underside of the hood. You will also have to move over your NA speed sensor to the TT transmission so your speedometer is accurate, but that is one thing that is free!

In the end, it's cheaper to buy a clean TT. I think what I showed above should make that very clear...














-

[vulcanrush]

that is a lot of good information that marty just provided.



and with a tt, there's always the urge to get upgraded parts, or as mike smith over at mws says..."the fast and the furious stuff", dp's, tp's, cat-back...mike smith performance exhaust manifolds also, ccoilovers and other suspension pieces, etc. etc. etc.

[es.biggs]

Basically if you have money and you want a TT that you KNOW is solid inside and out, do the swap.

It's much less work and much easier on the wallet to buy a stock TT. Unless it's a lemon - a risk you gotta take when buying any car, especially a 20 year old sports car.