1996 nissan p0600 & p1605
1996 nissan p0600 & p1605
hello, i have a 1996 nissan pathfinder se 4WD 3.3l with 115,000mi. this car has been the most reliable car i have ever had. the car has run perfect from day 1 until last night. i went into a store for 5 minutes and came back to my car and tried to start it (it wouldn't) it acted like it was still in gear (lights and radio worked)the starter wasn't cranking. a mechanic came by and helped me. he switched the relay switches and that didn't work. he used speaker wire to directly jump the starter so i could get home (check engine light stayed on) we directly jumped the starter again this morning to get it to the garage to get the trouble codesp0600 A/T control & communication line TCM/ECMp1605 diagnosis communication line TCM diag comm line faultthe tech used a snap on 2500 scanner. the garage is about 1/2 mile away and i noticed severe loss of power (maybe due to transmission not shifting into upper gears) could it still be the neutral safety switch without that code activated? any info would be helpful. cheryl
p0600 & p1605
thanks alot for your input. if you can't tell this is the first time i've ever used any forums. i just got done checking the fuses and they are ok. it takes me a while with the help of my 2 and 4 year old. we had u-haul install a trailer hitch and a plug about a month ago. do you think it might be in some of that wiring? i pulled the back panel off and everything looks ok, but i'm an electrical idiot !! thanks again.cheryl
the big ones are fusable links you can see if they are blown by looking at them they will have a gap in the middle of the metal tabs inside.
Also i assume you checked the fuses in the compartment next to your steering wheel left side if your sitting in the drives seat? you open that compartment then pull it off and there is a fuse panel in there as well. use a test light of volt meter to check your fuses you just probe the back side of them where the tabs are. you do not need to pull them out,you check both tabs on each fuse if one tab lights your test light and the other does not that fuse is blown. I seriously thing you have a lack of power or ground going to you TCM both those codes indicate that. in conjunction with the no start I strongly feel you have a fuse blown somewhere. you test the fuses with the key on. the start fuse shouldnt have any power to it till you turn the key to the start position so do that test as well.
Also i assume you checked the fuses in the compartment next to your steering wheel left side if your sitting in the drives seat? you open that compartment then pull it off and there is a fuse panel in there as well. use a test light of volt meter to check your fuses you just probe the back side of them where the tabs are. you do not need to pull them out,you check both tabs on each fuse if one tab lights your test light and the other does not that fuse is blown. I seriously thing you have a lack of power or ground going to you TCM both those codes indicate that. in conjunction with the no start I strongly feel you have a fuse blown somewhere. you test the fuses with the key on. the start fuse shouldnt have any power to it till you turn the key to the start position so do that test as well.
i used a craftsman tester set on ohms i took all of the fuses out to test them (under hood & next to driver's seat) i didn't know i could leave them in. the fusable links look good except for the one labeled 40 ing sw ( i assume for the ignition switch) the connection hasn't broke but it has a little green corrosion. i still haven't taken those out. should i check that one? the fuses next the the drivers seat can be tested without the ignition switch on. the 7.5 starter fuse slams the needle on my tester when the key is on. i took it out and it tested normal. i hope this helps. thanks again.cheryl
you test them on volts when they are in not ohms for 2 reasons one to be sure they are not blown which you accomplished by ohm checking them when out reason 2 is to be sure all of them have power to them. The green you see on the link is likely not corrosion its probably a coating they apply during assembly. You are going to have to test your powers and grounds to your TCM at this point and you will need a service manual with good schematics to do that. I do not have one here at home or I would post it for you. Do you have one for your pathy?
Another check you should do is at your positive battery terminal there are one or two wires plugged into the red block on the cable you need to make sure the power is getting to the connector off those wires at their next link like 3 to 6 inches down the wire. use you meter set on volts for that. I am not sure which craftsman tester you have but I assume it has a volts setting?
Another check you should do is at your positive battery terminal there are one or two wires plugged into the red block on the cable you need to make sure the power is getting to the connector off those wires at their next link like 3 to 6 inches down the wire. use you meter set on volts for that. I am not sure which craftsman tester you have but I assume it has a volts setting?
i just wanted to thank you again. i double checked the fuses and somehow i missed one for the a/t control. replaced the fuse and reset the ecu. so far so good. i hope that there isn't an underlying issue. hope it was a fluke. without your help i would've been dealer bound. you saved us $$$$$$$$THANKS ALOTcheryl
no problem.
thats why I sent you down the volt meter trail because it is a easier test you are less likly to miss a fuse since you are not pulling them out and reinserting them it could become easy to loose track of where you were at. Also pulling and reinserting fuses can cause the terminals to spread in the fuse box. If the fuse blows again you will probably need to get that manual and figure out what all is on that circuit and try to track down your short,could be a component or even a chaffed wire. keep alert if it happens again . When it does take carful notes of what exactly the you were doing when it happend. as much detail as you can write down the better.
thats why I sent you down the volt meter trail because it is a easier test you are less likly to miss a fuse since you are not pulling them out and reinserting them it could become easy to loose track of where you were at. Also pulling and reinserting fuses can cause the terminals to spread in the fuse box. If the fuse blows again you will probably need to get that manual and figure out what all is on that circuit and try to track down your short,could be a component or even a chaffed wire. keep alert if it happens again . When it does take carful notes of what exactly the you were doing when it happend. as much detail as you can write down the better.