1996 Maxima : Start problems - Clutch inhibitor relay issue?

[techrover]

I have spent about 4 full days troubleshooting various parts - starter, alternator, ignition switch, anti-theft relay, clutch inhibitor relay(E61 on page 28 of FSM) and used internet + chilton manual + factory service manuals. Starter, alternator, ignition switch, anti-theft relay were fine. When I jumped(or shorted) the inhibitor relay(open contacts - 6&7) with relay removed, the car will start fine. So I suspected this relay(OEM Part#25230-C9962) and replaced it, but still car won't start with relay sitting in. I noticed another thing - when I had the clutch inhibitor relay plugged in, the battery will drain(if ignition key is at ON position) in 30-45 minutes. When I had jumped the relay(and was riding the car this way for 2 days), this draining will not happen and car will start perfectly. I also have Check Engine codes - P0325(knock sensor), P1400(Manifold diff pressure), P0443(Evap PCV) for some time. However even with these codes, the car starts perfectly fine if 6&7 terminals of clutch inhibitor relay are shorted. I tested the new relay on bench by supplying 12v power and checking that terminals 6&7 get closed and terminals 3&4 get open once powered. I also checked that terminals 1&2 get 12v power under key ON condition. Under key START, terminal 6 will get 12v but 7 will not. This is beyond my understanding as the relay is behaving normally on bench,.

Can you please suggest me steps to further isolate why the car won't start with the new clutch inhibitor relay in place ? Does this issue have anything to do with the terminal 3&4 connected to ASCD which may be misbehaving?Thanks in advance.
Modified by techrover at 12:49 AM 8/2/2009

[jltibbs]

Welcome to NICO!

This sounds like something in the ignition switch itself. I would look at taking the lock cylinder out, wiring and all, and make sure no wires a chaffing, and that the plug is ok.

[techrover]

Thanks for the suggestion.I had a hunch that the clutch inhibitor relay wasn't getting activated(though it will show 12v on terminal #1) maybe due to the circuit not getting completed. I had already dissected the ignition switch earlier and cleaned it. That is where I noticed that the terminal#2 should have a ground through F51(inhibitor switch). Lo and behold, this connector was loose from my previous starter test(had taken out starter to get it tested at autozone). Connecting this properly restored the normal starting behavior of car. Great learning experiences this time:1. Start diagnosing from affected component out towards peripheral components. Don't start from peripheral components else you will have to touch a lot of things unnecessarily. In my case, I started tracing the start circuit and went through lot more components - instead if I had started from starter, I could have save some time.2. If you get 12V at a terminal(especially relay coils), don't assume it is working; the other terminal ought to get ground in order for relay to operate. 3. You can clean contacts for some of the components that have mechanical operation instead of replacing them. In my case, I was able to open ignition switch, clean/sand properly and restore its operation.Thanks everybody. I guess I am now proficient at starter issues

[jltibbs]

Glad we could be of assistance. Be sure to let us know if you have any other questions for us.

[asand1]

I jumped my relay just because i like to be able to bump the car forward with the starter if need be.