1995 Trouble Spots

[L336]

This is quoted from Consumer Guide:

Trouble Spots for the S14.

"Air conditioner: Poor air-conditioner performance due to compressor-joint seals that tend to leak. (1995-96)

Brakes: Nissan issued a voluntary recall to replace a defective diode that will not turn on the low-brake-fluid-warning light. (1995)

Dashboard lights: The check-engine light may come on and set an erroneous trouble code for the crankshaft position sensor if certain wires in the computerized engine-control circuits are not kept separated from one another. (1995)

Engine temperature: The engine tends to overheat if any air trapped in the cooling system is not properly bled. (1995)"

Has anyone had these problems? I ask because there is a 1995 S14 for $5999.

http://www.cars.com/go/search/...ycler

Any comments on this car that could help me make a decision? Please help!

- L336

[BadMojo]

This is quoted from Consumer Guide:

Trouble Spots for the S14.

"Air conditioner: Poor air-conditioner performance due to compressor-joint seals that tend to leak. (1995-96)

Brakes: Nissan issued a voluntary recall to replace a defective diode that will not turn on the low-brake-fluid-warning light. (1995)

Dashboard lights: The check-engine light may come on and set an erroneous trouble code for the crankshaft position sensor if certain wires in the computerized engine-control circuits are not kept separated from one another. (1995)

Engine temperature: The engine tends to overheat if any air trapped in the cooling system is not properly bled. (1995)"

I don't have an S14, but I've been reading these forums for years now, maybe too long.... .

I've never heard of the AC issue. I wouldn't sweat that one, no pun intended, but some of the S14 guys will surely chime in.

If the brake light thing is a recall, just make sure Nissan did it on the car. If not, have them do it. If it's a recall, they'll do it for free.

Never heard of widespread problems with the crankshaft position sensor.

As far as engine temperature is concerned...I'd give that one a big "duh". Of course the cooling system won't work with big air bubbles in it. Just make sure it's properly bled if you're working on it.

IMO, every 240SX is pretty bulletproof as long as the thing wasn't abused. The only little quirk is the timing chain guides/tensioners. The guides on some of the cars can crack and fall in to the engine, causing lots of problems. Also, the tensioners tend to wear out causing the timing chain to hit the guides.

Just listen for any sort of hollow, tapping sound coming from the front of the engine, especially the front of the valve cover.

Other than that, just look for the standard used car stuff. General maintenance, rust (especially if it has the stock rear foam spoiler), water in the trunk from worn seals on the tail lights, worn shocks and bushings (they're filled with err....goo and can leak with age).

S14's don't have the much maligned Heads Up Display, so you don't have to worry about that.

Generally, 240SXs are pretty solid cars. No glaring issues to speak of.

[ZULU]

I own a 95 SE and I have never had those problems at all. My A/C will feeze my *** off if i wanted it to.

But the car you are looking at is FAR too overpriced for what you get. Its a base 95 and it also has a salvage certificate. Keep looking around you'll find a much better deal then that.

[ace135cc]

i have a base 95 and i haven't had any of the problems mentioned. the a/c is very very cold. they are just lying because they are anti-nissan hoes.

[L336]

Keep looking around you'll find a much better deal then that.

So what's a good price range for a S14 assuming everything is in good condition? Also, I live in California if that helps with the pricing.

[Bronze MFP]

talk em down on that price, i got my 95 for 5200 a year ago. Never had any problems with my AC, or that check engine code... as for bleeding the coolant, i just fill the radiator full of antifreeze, then water, then start the car, pop off the bleeder screw, and keep pouring water into the radiator untill all the air bubbles are flushed out of the system. Messy? Yes. Does it work good? heck yes is does

[KDashy]

I see you're from the LA area, I'm very familiar with the auto dealerships that run on San Gabriel Blvd/ Main area.

They buy their cars from this auction house on san gabriel and sell them for nearly twice as much as what they got it for. I got my car from the auctions for about 4500, had a dealer won that auction you'd probably see it selling for 8.

I wouldnt suggest buying this car. look around, and buy a privately owned 240.

[ForsakenTH]

im not from the Cali area but i got my 95 SE for 5 grand with the only problem being the muffler had some rot on it. the rest of the car was spotless

[nismofly]

i wish they had auctions around me so i could get a kouki for that price, but no, the dealers go down to virginia and stuff, i didnt want to have to go that far

the zenki s14 i almost got was a 95 with 125k miles on it and it was a private seller asking $3800, so theyre obviously out there...try http://www.autotrader.com/

[Thrwnsprkz]

so how do you properly bleed the coolant then? i just installed a new thermostat... by doin this is my car goin to overheat now!? ive heard all those thingns before... my ac runs cold... my check engine light is on.... i still love my car, no worries

my car... 42 hundred 130k miles... i think i gotta good deal, also found off autotrader in MD
Modified by Thrwnsprkz at 10:33 PM 12/29/2004

[L336]

They buy their cars from this auction house on san gabriel and sell them for nearly twice as much as what they got it for. I got my car from the auctions for about 4500, had a dealer won that auction you'd probably see it selling for 8.

I wouldnt suggest buying this car. look around, and buy a privately owned 240.

Yeah, the San Gabriel Auto Auction on Tuesdays. I'm supposed to go in and just check it out some day, but this is winter break and I'm extremely lazy. I can actually just walk there since I live right off Walnut Grove. I just figured that there really couldn't be many 240sx's being confiscated or repossessed, but i guess I'm wrong. Auto auction, here I come!

- L336

[L336]

Also, when I buy the S14, there are a few prerequisites that it has to pass.

1) Must be stickshift2) Must have under 100,000 in mileage3) Cannot cost over $6K (1995-1996) or $8K (97-98)

That's about it

[L336]

talk em down on that price, i got my 95 for 5200 a year ago. Never had any problems with my AC, or that check engine code... as for bleeding the coolant, i just fill the radiator full of antifreeze, then water, then start the car, pop off the bleeder screw, and keep pouring water into the radiator untill all the air bubbles are flushed out of the system. Messy? Yes. Does it work good? heck yes is does

The only problem with this system that I can see is that I'll probably have to do this next to the gutters. Otherwise, sounds good to me, I'll be sure to do that if I get a 1995 S14 and it hints at overheating. Thanks.

[Thrwnsprkz]

hahahaha, finnished my thermostat install...when I was doin it, i was stupmed whouldnt a lower temp thermostat have smaller springs so it whould open up faster? the stock one looked like a twig compaired to the muscle the Nismo one had... but nismos rated lower...

Installed filled, started carkept adding the fluid... OVER HEAT! (on gauge)-turned off the car... kept sucking the fluid down, added more finnaly stopped taking in the fluid... temp slightly below red

...took for drive, over heating the entire time (or dam close to) brought back home, seemed ok...

so is it air bubbles? I was told to lift the front end up, or look for a screw on the rad used to bleed the air...is this normal? I was planning on adding a water temp gauge next week neway... looks like Ill wait n see if the stock temp gauge is just goin crazy.

[mynismo]

1. Fill the overflow tank to the full line.2. Make sure heater is fully on the hot side.3. Remove engine bleeder screw and radiator cap4. Fill very slowly until coolant comes through bleeder.5. Close bleeder.6. Continue filling until radiator is full.7. Squeeze all hoses to release more air. Keep radiator topped off.8. When full, install radiator cap and run engine.9. Fill overflow and radiator as necessary. Keep heater on hot.10. Hope to god it works because you really don't want to repeat the process again.

if you are still having trouble something is wrong. your fans, thermostat, procedure, etc...

[Thrwnsprkz]

well i started by closeing up everything, filled the rad slowly, squeezed the hoses etc... topped off the rad, added cap... filled the overflow tank. and started the car... took off the cap and tried to squeez more bubbles out

it started sucking in the fluid like crazy... before i knew it the overflow tank was empty... added more etc. (whole time heater was on)thanks: should i retry? did i make a careless error?

the needle of the gauge seemed to move veeeery quickly... implying bubbles i assume?

Thanks: Jon

[raaksha]

I got my 96 back in March for 2 grand, very few defects (father's friend needed quick cash) and during the summer I was alarmed because I thought smoke was coming out of my AC vents. Turns out to just be really cold air